Cap wrote:I have been a member here since a few months after this forum's inception I think in 2005. And I have been saying a baro on a harman is not necessary and only reduces draft. The harman is very tight and proper operation of the bottom damper is all that was needed. The top dampers are primarily there for wood burning.
It's funny how I was mildly critiqued and ignored when I stated my findings. It seemed at the time everyone and I mean everyone was so sure I was wrong and a barometric damper was 100% necessary. I was the Inventer of "foil your baro" statement for more positive results for the newbie. And I was criticized by senior members. I feel better now to know I wasn't incorrect in my understanding of efficient use of my equipment. Feels good to be in company of non-believers. But I am not hearing any of them now. John, where have you gone?
great post ! stove shops make $ sell gaskets, sealer, baros, mpd's, pipes, chimneys, caps, tmeters, adapters, paint etc. might not sell everyone stove but little things put $ in drawer. "non-believers" = less money in drawer, you get lip from sellers. thats one reason.
2nd reason "believers" spend $ on stuff not needed, dont wanna admit taken hook line sinker, you get ignored.
3rd reason most old iron leaks air like sieves & not designed airtight, baro & mpd on leaky overdraft overfiring stove, band aid on cancer. instead fix leaks first. old stoves look great, if leaky cracked rusty, not much of a stove. owners get defensive, leaky stove needs extra gadgets to run. pride & ego ? me if it heats on bucket a day, no CO in house, no big repairs, thats good stove. I want stove that heats with one knob, not project.