Vw Tdi

 
waldo lemieux
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Post by waldo lemieux » Mon. Dec. 16, 2013 1:28 am

Dave,

The mech reported that the temp did spike,not overheat ,115c and then go down to like 80c after reaching the top of the hill . Do ya think I should do tstat first?

Waldo


 
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Post by Short Bus » Mon. Dec. 16, 2013 1:40 am

You can get PH test strip coolant test kit from parts house, acid coolant is generally combustion gasses in coolant, but the tester mentioned before with the chemicals that check for combustion gases gets my recommendation, I've only seen the electronic version. Sometimes radiator shops will do this test because they don't like replacing radiators and people having the same problem after they have paid for a new radiator.

It's is generally best to test first before changing parts.

 
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Post by Coalfire » Mon. Dec. 16, 2013 5:47 am

waldo lemieux wrote:Dave,

The mech reported that the temp did spike,not overheat ,115c and then go down to like 80c after reaching the top of the hill . Do ya think I should do tstat first?

Waldo
I think you should do the water pump first. you said it overflows under load, what is probably happening is the impeller on the water pump is plastic, this impeller is cracked, so under load it has no friction on the water pump shaft and slips, which means its not moving water. then it gets hot and pukes leave off the throttle some and it is fine.

I have never seen a tstat be intermittent in its operation, and out of all the ones I have seen fail, only ever seen one fail in the stuck closed position, most times stats fail by opening to soon and staying open running the car to cool.

Check the w/p unless you know it has a metal impeller.

Eric

 
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Post by Flyer5 » Mon. Dec. 16, 2013 8:54 am

waldo lemieux wrote:Dave,

The mech reported that the temp did spike,not overheat ,115c and then go down to like 80c after reaching the top of the hill . Do ya think I should do tstat first?

Waldo
Not sure I think it could be either or as well at this point. These are the only timing kits I use on my 04. http://www.idparts.com/catalog/product_info.php?c ... cts_id=511

 
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Post by waldo lemieux » Mon. Dec. 16, 2013 5:57 pm

Bought a block test kit to check for combustion gasses in cooling system. Probably be thurs before I get a chance to do it, gotta get ready for crane lift on wed. Were putting a whole roof system on a two story bldg. Trusses ,plywood, felt 32x42 in two pieces. Soon as I get that off my plate Ill worry about the car that has to get my kids 450mi to grandmas house for christmas :? I turned the bat light on but that s.o.b is a no show :mad:

 
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Post by europachris » Tue. Dec. 17, 2013 9:46 pm

I'm not 100% sure, but I believe the BEW "PD" engine in your TDI has issues with leaking EGR coolers, which can cause both coolant loss as well as exhaust into the coolant system.

Head gasket issues are very uncommon on any TDI made in this millenium, provided the head hasn't been off previously for some reason. Thermostats do go bad by getting "weak" and opening too early. Rarely do they stick. Buy OEM - expensive but they last a long time and easy to replace when you've got it apart for the timing belt/water pump job. I changed mine around 180k. Temp sensors also go bad relatively often and cause erratic gage readings. The sensor has two individual outputs - one for the gage, the other for the ECU. Even if the gage is all over the map, the ECU is getting a good reading (or vice versa but then you may get a CEL). I've replaced two of them - pretty quick and easy.

I'm coming up on 230k on my 2002 wagon. The interior is starting to age and paint is sandblasted, but it is rust free and solid. It has been more reliable the last 100k than the first 100k. No reason it won't see 300k easily!

Chris

 
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Post by Flyer5 » Tue. Dec. 17, 2013 10:37 pm

europachris wrote:I'm not 100% sure, but I believe the BEW "PD" engine in your TDI has issues with leaking EGR coolers, which can cause both coolant loss as well as exhaust into the coolant system.

Head gasket issues are very uncommon on any TDI made in this millenium, provided the head hasn't been off previously for some reason. Thermostats do go bad by getting "weak" and opening too early. Rarely do they stick. Buy OEM - expensive but they last a long time and easy to replace when you've got it apart for the timing belt/water pump job. I changed mine around 180k. Temp sensors also go bad relatively often and cause erratic gage readings. The sensor has two individual outputs - one for the gage, the other for the ECU. Even if the gage is all over the map, the ECU is getting a good reading (or vice versa but then you may get a CEL). I've replaced two of them - pretty quick and easy.

I'm coming up on 230k on my 2002 wagon. The interior is starting to age and paint is sandblasted, but it is rust free and solid. It has been more reliable the last 100k than the first 100k. No reason it won't see 300k easily!

Chris
I will flip to 290k tomorrow on the way to work with mine. That EGR cooler is something I forgot about, but the dealer said supposedly they bypassed the egr. I am curious as well.


 
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Post by waldo lemieux » Wed. Dec. 18, 2013 8:11 pm

Well,

Maybe I need to go back to jump st. and test the Egr myself. Just a matter of connecting the two ends together, Right? How long and under what conditions do I run the thing? I woulda thought that the test was fairly idiot proof but every day I come across something simple some dolt overlooked..... Hope to get some time tomorrow, keep the ideas coming and well take over the tdi forum with a coal burning wondercar.

Waldo

 
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Post by Flyer5 » Sun. Dec. 22, 2013 12:20 am

Any update?

 
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Post by Flyer5 » Thu. Dec. 26, 2013 9:56 am

:bang:

 
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Post by titleist1 » Thu. Dec. 26, 2013 10:05 am

yeah...owning a tdi myself I am real interested in finding out what happened to keep tabs on what I may be in for down the road!!

 
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Post by waldo lemieux » Thu. Dec. 26, 2013 7:39 pm

Guys,
Sorry for the slow/no replies. I'm out of town and all I have to type on is a phone :roll: I ended up running out of time to do anything with the vw
Before we had to leave for Va. and Christmas . I know it's frustrating to try and troubleshoot something and wait for more info and results.

We have been in Va. Since sat and I never got a chance to test out the car before we left. At this point I'm gonna do exhaust gas test first. If positive Ill retest the egr and rule in or out. Next I'm gonna try some HD block repair.If I get a negative exhaust gas test,I'll do the tstat and inspect the water pump .

At this point I strongly suspect the hg as the egr was allegedly ruled out by the stealership and after cooling off overnight there is still serious pressure let off when I open the coolant res. in the am.

Again ,thanx for the help, I do really appreciate it. Don't give up on me I'm gonna get back at it as soon as we get home and my daughter gets her tonsils out on tue. :cry:

 
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Post by wilder11354 » Fri. Dec. 27, 2013 8:00 pm

Just curious Waldo... how often do you flush cooling system and install new antifreeze?

 
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Post by waldo lemieux » Wed. Jan. 01, 2014 11:54 am

Guys

So after some collaboration on a TDI site it was suggested that I try the following test :

Let car completely cool off overnight , release any pressure from reservoir , start car and let idol a few minutes (not get warm) and check for any pressure buildup. I did and pfffffttt... I put my hand on the side of the head and it wasnt even warm, sooo... all indications point to HG failure.

At this point I guess we have no choice but to fix it . I gotta say that Ive never had my hands this deep in the bowels of a engine before and I hate to run away from a challenge but after reading some of Smitty's posts and Rick's recent Volvo saga ; lets just say Im reluctant to just dive right in.

Why couldnt we have just dropped a few more on Berlin back in the day and gotten rid of VW before they could come to America? Can you take a hit out on a vehicle and just collect the ins money?

Happy new year
Waldo

 
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Post by rberq » Wed. Jan. 01, 2014 12:37 pm

waldo lemieux wrote:... all indications point to HG failure.
At this point I guess we have no choice but to fix it . I gotta say that Ive never had my hands this deep in the bowels of a engine before and I hate to run away from a challenge but after reading some of Smitty's posts and Rick's recent Volvo saga ; lets just say Im reluctant to just dive right in
I'd be reluctant, too. I'm not much of a mechanic, and I've done it, but on a much older much simpler non-diesel engine. Also couldn't stand up straight for a week afterwards because I hurt my back bending over the engine compartment in cold weather like this. :cry: Having a warm shop this time of year, and having all the right tools and cleaning fluids, makes a huge difference, and I don't have them and probably you don't either. The $1,500 quoted by the stealership sounds like plenty, but not outrageous. Maybe there's an independent shop around that specializes in VW and would be less $$$. My guess is, they would do a little more testing to confirm the diagnosis before tearing things apart.


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