Why Are Stoves Built So Close to the Floor?

speaking of raising my stove,
here's the thread from a few years when I did it,
pics and all!
Raise Mark III?

The stove doesn't care where it's set at. Just make sure what every you put it on is stable like all those concrete blocks. Lets see row of blocks three wide, three deep, two high at 1.25 each = 21 blocks or about $75 including delivery.

Add case of adult beverage for two young guys to lift stove onto blocks for you and your somewhere around $100.00. They get the adult beverages AFTER the stove is up.

Chiropractor visit for not doing this is $150 plus anti spasm pills $24.00. Three days in bed in misery and two weeks of twinges and limping around = about a gazillion dollars.

Do the math. Raise the stove.

Rev. Larry

My guess on stoves being low is for the heat. Heat rises, so you want it to start low. Otherwise your feet get cold...

dj

Probably low to the floor so the stove is down in the cold air, closer to the floor. This is the same reason that the baseburners work so well, by getting the heat down near the floor and stirring up some serious convection currents.

Over the last four years I began to notice just how much my stove's legs shrank in the past 10 years. Knees and ankles started to complain an awful lot once heating season settled in. I started to use a simple garden seat when I tend to cleaning the fettel and shaking down the day's ashes. It's just the right height and makes bending forward comfortable when my knees and ankles stay in a seated position. No more complaints from the worn out joints.

Carbon12 wrote:As long as the stove is level and secure, raising it is a non issue, for the most part. Emphasis on the secure part of that equation cannot be over emphasized.

perfect answer^^^, the thing they worry about mostly at U/L is legs with hollow areas (tubes for stove feet with no air way and closed off so to speak), I personally don't even think that would be an issue (it just would not get passed U/L approvals in many cases). In the case with the 404, probably best to make a cinderblock pad and make sure the 4 legs sit on the cinder block (as if it was the hearth) because the 404 should have a built in heat plate under it (this heat plate was not made to take the weight of the stove, the feet were!) .... again.... level, strong, secure as Carbon says!

A little off topic but in the one room schoolhouse a mile down the street from me they used to have the stove (think it was a wood stove) suspended by chains from hooks in the ceiling....dont know WHY they did it, just that they DID.

Everything in my basement has a "lift kit".

For a different reason though - it tends to get a little "moist" down there .....

PJT wrote:A little off topic but in the one room schoolhouse a mile down the street from me they used to have the stove (think it was a wood stove) suspended by chains from hooks in the ceiling....dont know WHY they did it, just that they DID.

I just Gotta see pics of that!!! next time you drive past it go snap a photo for us

@Smitty... news flash.... that aint "damp"... thats a freekin pond has to be some solutions to better that to a large degree

Reminds me of my brothers house on the south shore of Long Island !

He lives a couple of houses from the water. When they want to take the boat out, to check the tide they just look down the basement stairs.

Paul

Why are stoves built so close to the floor?

Gravity man, gravity.

So that's why I'm so short!

dcrane wrote: ............
@Smitty... news flash.... that aint "damp"... thats a freekin pond .. has to be some solutions to better that to a large degree .. ..

Yeah, there are ... but they all involve a large pile of cash. No money trees growing on this property.

Hell ck, that's right up there with "heat rises"

dcrane wrote:

Carbon12 wrote:As long as the stove is level and secure, raising it is a non issue, for the most part. Emphasis on the secure part of that equation cannot be over emphasized.

perfect answer^^^, the thing they worry about mostly at U/L is legs with hollow areas (tubes for stove feet with no air way and closed off so to speak), I personally don't even think that would be an issue (it just would not get passed U/L approvals in many cases). In the case with the 404, probably best to make a cinderblock pad and make sure the 4 legs sit on the cinder block (as if it was the hearth) because the 404 should have a built in heat plate under it (this heat plate was not made to take the weight of the stove, the feet were!) .... again.... level, strong, secure as Carbon says!

Thanks for the tip on the feet!
I am going to look at the 404 that is in another thread buy it and come back during the week to pick it up any ideas on safe lifting points? If I lighten it up by taking out grates fire pot baffle and door what do you think it might weigh?

I'm sure dc has that answer--but mine is----- quite a bit!!! remember--bend at the knee's, not the back!!

SMITTY wrote: Yeah, there are ... but they all involve a large pile of cash. No money trees growing on this property.

Do you have a sump pump set in the floor? Reminds me of our basement 10 years ago. All loose stone foundation like most old colonials. I dug down to the bottom of the foundation in the worst area outside & poured a concrete wall working it in between the large stones. Also installed a curtain drain across the yard funneling the water away from our house. We used to have waterfalls in the basement where the crawl space area transitions into the open basement; now the sump pump hole sits dry pretty much year round.