Why Are Stoves Built So Close to the Floor?

Yeah, there's a sump down there. Doesn't need a pump because it drains by gravity. It only gets so full before it flows down the pipe. All that water is just on it's way to the sump. Not much I can do about it that doesn't involve a pile of money and lots of labor - neither of which are in full supply around here.

freetown fred wrote:I'm sure dc has that answer--but mine is----- quite a bit!!! remember--bend at the knee's, not the back!!

Have cherry picker and not afraid to use it!
Just wondering where it is safe to put the straps.

Not sure about your stove, but for my 50-93 I removed the doors, firebrick, hopper and shaker grate assembly which allowed my brother and I to be able to lift the stove out of my truck and into the house. I never thought a steel box could weigh that much .

If you were to use a picker/lift of sorts--between the legs--DON't project, that's not where I'm goin- snugged up to the legs on either side--but hell, you knew that BALANCE--it ain't rocket science

Yup, when lifting heavy box shapes, under near corners are generally the strongest areas.

Paul

OP topic Why are stoves built so close to the floor?
economics. money. lower stove =less cast iron, steel= lower cost=bigger margin$ profit. lower center gravity more stable wont tip. & its sorta traditional. why do we step down into cars. because thats how they started makin them post WWII. before that you stepped up into car like horse carriage.

ddahlgren wrote:

dcrane wrote: perfect answer^^^, the thing they worry about mostly at U/L is legs with hollow areas (tubes for stove feet with no air way and closed off so to speak), I personally don't even think that would be an issue (it just would not get passed U/L approvals in many cases). In the case with the 404, probably best to make a cinderblock pad and make sure the 4 legs sit on the cinder block (as if it was the hearth) because the 404 should have a built in heat plate under it (this heat plate was not made to take the weight of the stove, the feet were!) .... again.... level, strong, secure as Carbon says!

Thanks for the tip on the feet!
I am going to look at the 404 that is in another thread buy it and come back during the week to pick it up any ideas on safe lifting points? If I lighten it up by taking out grates fire pot baffle and door what do you think it might weigh?

you can take off the doors (open them wide, give upward pressure as you wiggle the door slightly back and forth), you can remove the baffle its its their (simply lift up on it and out), you can take the ashpan out, you may or may not be able to get the firepot out (open top door, lip cast in on either side of firepot to get a thumb grip as you try to lift it OR use a cats paw/thin wide pry bar and try to wedge it under the front lip of the firepot VERY CAREFULLY so as to attempt lifting it but NOT so much that you snap the lip... ive also fliped the stove on its top to try to get a firepot out and worst case is you need a mini hydrolic press to wedge between the grate and firepot to lift it. bottom line is this.... if the firepot is OK but you cant get it out, use it for a decade before dealing with it! (if the firepot is damaged that you cannot use it the worst case is you take a heavy hammer and smash it out/crack it/chunk it out OR if your good with a torch you can burn it out (but trust me... this is cast in a limited area and you need to have some experience with a torch to do it or you will make a huge mess.)

as far as lifting points... not a concern at all... grab it, strap it, etc. where its best for even weight distribution to prevent tilting (take doors and blower off and you could throw it off the roof and your not going to hurt it.