Domestic Coil on AK 110 Furnace

 
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Flyer5
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Post by Flyer5 » Thu. Dec. 19, 2013 7:36 am

I have a little science experiment for anyone running an AK110 furnace. I have a heat exchanger coil that I want to have mounted above the door on a 110 furnace. I will supply the heat exchanger and mounting hardware and PRV if needed. I am figuring it won't be able to supply 100% of the hot water needs but it would be more of a tempering coil for the supply on a hot water heater. What I would need is someone willing to take on the task of installing this on their furnace and taking some temperature readings before and after the coil at different firing rates. Also maybe a few months of electric bills before and after to see if the savings would be worth it, and what the ROI would be for people that would do this on future furnaces. If you are close enough I may be willing to bring the beer and help with the install. I want to get real world #s and I run a boiler so that leaves me out.
If you are interested shoot me a PM. Thanks, Dave


 
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Post by blrman07 » Thu. Dec. 19, 2013 7:52 am

This is what I like about you guys. Real world testing of ideas with hands on installs.

Rev. Larry

 
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heatwithcoal
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Post by heatwithcoal » Sat. Dec. 28, 2013 10:59 am

Dave,

I assume there is a maximum distance you would like the water heater to be from the furnace for this experiment? I would like to take this on but water heater is about 25' from the furnace.
This has piqued my interest as my 13 year old daughter has been in the shower for 20-25 minutes. It has to be cold by now.
I guess it is time to shut the hot water valve to the off position. :D
Mark

 
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Post by Flyer5 » Sat. Dec. 28, 2013 2:29 pm

Thanks Mark,
I don't think it would matter much the pipe will just have to be insulated from the coil to the water heater. Remember it will be in series feeding the hot water heater with hopefully very warm or hot water. It won't be like the typical DWC where the water is in parallel and circulated constantly . Let me know. This is a science experiment.
Dave

 
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Carbon12
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Post by Carbon12 » Sat. Dec. 28, 2013 3:41 pm

You might want to include a voltage/current data logger. They are not too expensive. Test the water heater for a typical week without the hot water coil and then with the water coil. It will take the guess work out of trying to calculate the electricity savings.

 
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Post by GOLDDOLLAR » Sun. Dec. 29, 2013 4:37 pm

Hi Dave From Ohio.
We have an AK-110 Furnace an love it. This is our 2nd year using it to heat our home. I've been contemplating heating our hot water heater water during our cold winter months with the furnace to help cut our expenses. I would like more info on what is involved, Etc.
I read your blog on December 19, 2013 on a prototype.
Can you post pictures of what the insert, plumbing, an what connections, circulating plumbing, etc. looks like an describe more in detail as to where an how it would be routed in an back out (location) on the furnace??

 
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Post by Flyer5 » Sun. Dec. 29, 2013 7:28 pm

GOLDDOLLAR wrote:Hi Dave From Ohio.
We have an AK-110 Furnace an love it. This is our 2nd year using it to heat our home. I've been contemplating heating our hot water heater water during our cold winter months with the furnace to help cut our expenses. I would like more info on what is involved, Etc.
I read your blog on December 19, 2013 on a prototype.
Can you post pictures of what the insert, plumbing, an what connections, circulating plumbing, etc. looks like an describe more in detail as to where an how it would be routed in an back out (location) on the furnace??
Its basically one of these 12x24 http://www.ebay.com/itm/15x15-Water-to-Air-Heat-E ... 256c874b64.

I made a jacket to go around it. It will mount above the front door and will act more as a tempering type heater more than anything I think. Since I don't run a furnace this is the best option to get real world results.

Who knows it may end like this. :D



Just kidding


 
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Post by Carbon12 » Sun. Dec. 29, 2013 7:49 pm

When I was running my in laws fuel oil company we had a customer who had a wee problem with his water heater. The aqua stat malfunctioned and the temperature/pressure relief valve had been limed tight. I got a phone call one morning that the State Police Fire Inspector wanted to meet me at the customers house. At that point, I didn't know what had happened. When I pulled up, the house looked like it had been lifted from the foundation, moved two feet sideways and slammed back down. That's exactly what happened! The water heater exploded after multiple malfunctions,.....none due to my company, thank goodness! They had to tear the house down and build a new one. The fire inspector thought we might have accidentally delivered gasoline. We hadn't. I immediately changed all the temperature/pressure relief valves on all of the families water heaters and boilers. It does happen :shock:

 
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Post by Carbon12 » Sun. Dec. 29, 2013 7:55 pm

Now that I'm thinking about it,.....I think I'll add a second pressure relief valve to my boiler system.

 
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Post by GOLDDOLLAR » Sun. Dec. 29, 2013 8:27 pm

I just changed out a gas hot water heater for brother-In-Law this pass Saturday, took off relief valve, Plugged solid with sediment !!! I told him to start watching Mythbusters - they had tested this out as a Myth, NOT!!!!! Shocking !!!!!! Good input guys .

 
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Post by Flyer5 » Sun. Dec. 29, 2013 9:03 pm

Yes the PRV is a part that should be inspected and or replaced. I believe they are required for the domestic side even when there is no tank. It is also necessary to use the correct one for the application.

 
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Post by ncountry » Sun. Dec. 29, 2013 9:50 pm

Bet it will work great . In the past durring the winter I heated our dhw with a 50' coil of copper sitting inside the plenum on top of the fire chamber on a wood fired furnace. Plumbed it into a 50 gallon hw heater placed higher to take advantage of the natural flow of warm water. I was lucky and never blew one up..lol

 
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Post by Short Bus » Mon. Dec. 30, 2013 2:54 pm

Since you have gone though the trouble to make this coil and plan to market it, maybe it's time to get a BTU meter. With a meter you will get useful numbers for marketing this product. I love spending other peoples money. :)

 
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Post by heatwithcoal » Sat. Oct. 11, 2014 4:49 pm

Has this experiment gotten anywhere?

Mark

 
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Post by coalnewbie » Sat. Oct. 11, 2014 5:50 pm

A have never been a fan of DHW coils on stokers or hand feds. A have had 2 AK110s, I loved them so much I sold one and moved up to a AK180. Truly wonderful stoves but if you do basic BTU calculations I do not favor trying to extract 30,000 BTU to shower down a 13 year old. If you want to introduce water somewhere water go with WL110 or one of the competitors. The AK series does one thing very well indeed but a Jack of all trades it is not.


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