ddahlgren wrote:Ok the majority of heating season over and can pull out the evil wood stove so I can switch to coal. For the 404 here is the current game plan and let me know if headed in the wrong direction. Going to send grates doors and small loose parts to a local shop to be sand blasted then will buff the pivot points on the grates. I don't see any sense to have the firepot sand blasted but advise if I am wrong. It is red tan from heat so do not see what I need to take off other than what dcrane mentioned about grinding off the offending little nubs so it slides in and out easy.
Here is the plan for hinge pin repair. I am going to drill a hole in the stove top after measuring the location of an existing pin in the ash door relative to the stove side and door sealing surface. From there put the top door on and jigged up as dcrane suggested and use an extra long airframe drill to spot the hole location by piloting through the hinge pin bore in the door then remove door and drill through the tab. Repeat for the lower hinge. This will allow me to drop a brass rod through all 4 hinge pin bores and secure to stove with a shaft collar to prevent rotation. Now I have a hinge pin that is naturally slippery and will not seize to the door even with no lubrication. Should it wear out 3 bucks and 5 minutes will replace all 4 pins.
Ok what is the consensus on this plan?
good plan.... i get it. install the firepot with the former rear side now being the front side (most the red will be towards the rear side, now that wall will be towards the front), try to have some metal filler plate block the lower sides of that top baffle (approx 1"x2"x1/4" thick plate welded into the lower portion sides of that baffle) so you can "bank" coal better without concern of coal getting in behind that baffle plate and it will also help to slow draft toward rear of stove , something dad should have done because clearly it overfires toward the rear (flu wall) a lot easier than the front wall (we want EVENNESS across the entire bed!)
You may wish to have the firepot recast (its the only part you may need to deal with at some point over the next 10 years depending on how hard you need to run her).
hinge pin replacement for us was easier to just grind off all 4 hinge pins (including the tab), set stove laying down on its back, take the 2 doors and line them up with no gasket on the stove, place a 1/8th inch plate under the hinge side of the doors, weld new tabs to stove... DONE! (this is how the stove was built as well)
If we did use a drill to replace a pin, we used a small right angle air drill to achieve what your trying to do (but i see no reason your idea wont work... its just frustrating when you brake a bit
... slow, steady and patience wins this game!
great idea on smoothing up the shaker system contact points!