Hello Everybody, New Here and Hoping to Be Burning Soon!

 
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McGiever
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Coal Size/Type: PEA,NUT,STOVE /ANTHRACITE
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Post by McGiever » Thu. Jan. 09, 2014 10:28 am

You got it...like 6' total of pipe, going up thru a DIY sealed blockoff plate @ damper/smoke shelf and you'll be good. :)


 
titleist1
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Post by titleist1 » Thu. Jan. 09, 2014 10:36 am

michaelanthony wrote:Uploading pictures will, if not already, come up and I am surprised no one has asked to see the chimney in question and the rusted damper. Our first and foremost issue is SAFETY and this means everyone.....All the folks on this thread have one thing in mind and that is SAFELY warming yourself and family and the savings is your reward!
I second the request to see a pic or three of the chimney. Somebody here had a great idea of lowering their cell phone in video mode down the chimney on a rope to get a visual of the inside. That will help determine if it is sound or not.

 
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MrsSouthy
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Post by MrsSouthy » Thu. Jan. 09, 2014 10:38 am

michaelanthony wrote:I commend you MrsSouthy, your due diligence is filtering out some excellent results. I would like to add one item and I think now is a good time to bring it up. Uploading pictures will, if not already, come up and I am surprised no one has asked to see the chimney in question and the rusted damper. Our first and foremost issue is SAFETY and this means everyone. Starting out properly is important. Someone mentioned C.O. monitors because of the gas log fireplace and I have not heard a response for that. If you are standing strong on coal then a manometer will be recommended as well as flue draft controls. More homework but worth every penny and time. All the folks on this thread have one thing in mind and that is SAFELY warming yourself and family and the savings is your reward! Keep up the good fight. as HB would say :clap:
I will get some pics and upload shortly. Sorry, I meant to answer that yes we do have a new CO detector in the room with the logs. I haven't heard of a manometer. Will have to look that up. And yes, I have 2 precious little ones and the safety of this is much more of a concern for me than anything else. Secondary to that is having the most comfortable and economical heat source for my family. Meaning that if we can heat with the natural gas furnace or coal for about the same cost I personally would opt for the coal stove because having grown up with a wood stove, having somewhere to back up my freezin' buns and get warm is a significant plus ;) Will have to check out the flue draft controls too. Not sure what that entails. And....

I have to commend you guys more than myself. I most certainly have much to be gained by continuing my research and picking your brains to death but really you guys stand to gain nothing and yet you're still kind enough to help. Means a lot!! Thank you!! Have no idea where I'd be getting this info if not for you all.

 
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MrsSouthy
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Post by MrsSouthy » Thu. Jan. 09, 2014 10:40 am

McGiever wrote:You got it...like 6' total of pipe, going up thru a DIY sealed blockoff plate @ damper/smoke shelf and you'll be good. :)
What is the blockoff plate made of?

 
franco b
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Post by franco b » Thu. Jan. 09, 2014 10:41 am

A block off plate is nice but all it needs is to stuff fiberglass insulation around the smoke pipe to seal off the damper area. Much easier.

 
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MrsSouthy
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Post by MrsSouthy » Thu. Jan. 09, 2014 10:57 am

franco b wrote:A block off plate is nice but all it needs is to stuff fiberglass insulation around the smoke pipe to seal off the damper area. Much easier.
I'll probably have to look this up online and try to find pics so I can get an idea what you are talking about.

 
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Sunny Boy
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Post by Sunny Boy » Thu. Jan. 09, 2014 11:03 am

A manometer is a gauge for measuring low pressure differences, such as the pressure difference of lighter, hot gasses inside a stove and chimney vs the colder, heavier air outside them. That slightly higher pressure of cold air outside the stove is what pushes the light-weight exhaust up the chimney and out.

While not a necessity (I'll probably get flamed by some for saying that ! :roll: ) like a thermometer, a manometer (mano for short) helps you see what's going on with the stove/chimney draft. That can help you adjust the dampers to get the most heat out of the stove and send less up the chimney. It's saved me a couple of pounds of coal a day.

Here's the Dwyer model 25 that is most commonly is used by the group on here. It will also help others to help you with any trouble shooting, if they know what temp and draft numbers your getting. Amazon has about the best price I've seen.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B009PAN3C8/ref=biss_dp_t_asn

Paul


 
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MrsSouthy
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Post by MrsSouthy » Thu. Jan. 09, 2014 11:04 am

My first time uploading pics here so I hope I did it right. Is this what you all were wanting? My profile pic is the overall view of my fireplace and these are closeup.
100_0873.JPG
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100_0874.JPG
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michaelanthony
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Coal Size/Type: 'nut
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Post by michaelanthony » Thu. Jan. 09, 2014 11:04 am

[quote="MrsSouthy"][quote="franco b"]A block off plate is nice but all it needs is to stuff fiberglass insulation around the smoke pipe to seal off the damper area. Much easier.[/quote]

I'll probably have to look this up online and try to find pics so I can get an idea what you are talking about.[/quote]

Removing a Built in Damper From Fireplace

check this out!

 
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Sunny Boy
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Post by Sunny Boy » Thu. Jan. 09, 2014 11:08 am

MrsSouthy wrote:
franco b wrote:A block off plate is nice but all it needs is to stuff fiberglass insulation around the smoke pipe to seal off the damper area. Much easier.
I'll probably have to look this up online and try to find pics so I can get an idea what you are talking about.
Just use pieces of fiberglass a couple of feet long and push them in around the top of the stove where the flue pipe goes through the chimney damper. You want to close off the chimney around the pipe so room air and heat from the stove stay below the chimney damper. And it blocks cold air coming in when the stove is not burning.

Just think like you would stuff pillows, or blankets to close off an open window.

Paul

 
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MrsSouthy
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Post by MrsSouthy » Thu. Jan. 09, 2014 11:11 am

Sunny Boy wrote:A manometer is a gauge for measuring low pressure differences, such as the pressure difference of lighter, hot gasses inside a stove and chimney vs the colder, heavier air outside them. That slightly higher pressure of cold air outside the stove is what pushes the light-weight exhaust up the chimney and out.

While not a necessity (I'll probably get flamed by some for saying that ! :roll: ) like a thermometer, a manometer (mano for short) helps you see what's going on with the stove/chimney draft. That can help you adjust the dampers to get the most heat out of the stove and send less up the chimney. It's saved me a couple of pounds of coal a day.

Here's the Dwyer model 25 that is most commonly is used by the group on here. It will also help others to help you with any trouble shooting, if they know what temp and draft numbers your getting. Amazon has about the best price I've seen.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B009PAN3C8/ref=biss_dp_t_asn

Paul
Sounds like it will pay for itself if it can save a couple pounds a day. I put it on my wishlist in amazon. Where does it install?

 
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Sunny Boy
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Coal Size/Type: Nuts !
Other Heating: Oil &electric plenum furnace

Post by Sunny Boy » Thu. Jan. 09, 2014 11:15 am

A piece of small metal tubing goes in a hole drilled in the flue pipe. The gauge mounts on a wall near the stove and is connected to that metal tubing by a rubber tube to one of the ports (right hand port) on top of the gauge.

For a fireplace insert, because of the heat, I'd use 1/8 inch brake tubing from the autoparts store, stuck in the flue pipe and run down from the flue to at least a foot away from the insert before using the rubber tubing.

Paul

 
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Sunny Boy
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Coal Size/Type: Nuts !
Other Heating: Oil &electric plenum furnace

Post by Sunny Boy » Thu. Jan. 09, 2014 11:18 am

There's a lot more on manometers here.

Manometer Install

Paul

 
franco b
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Post by franco b » Thu. Jan. 09, 2014 11:19 am

MrsSouthy wrote:
franco b wrote:A block off plate is nice but all it needs is to stuff fiberglass insulation around the smoke pipe to seal off the damper area. Much easier.
I'll probably have to look this up online and try to find pics so I can get an idea what you are talking about.
The smoke pipe has to go through the area made vacant by removing the damper plate. The pipe should extend up and into the clay liner in the chimney, maybe 4 feet total. You might have to squeeze the pipe oval to fit and might have to use an adjustable elbow or maybe two to make the pipe head in the right direction after passing through the damper frame. Removing the damper frame would give more room if need be.

Once the smoke pipe is connected to the stove and extends into the chimney any gaps in the damper area have to be sealed so that the chimney only pulls through the smoke pipe and through the stove. Those gaps can be effectably sealed by stuffing unfaced fiberglass insulation into them.

 
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MrsSouthy
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Post by MrsSouthy » Thu. Jan. 09, 2014 12:02 pm

I just pulled out the paper the chimney sweep left when he inspected. On his condition report he marked the brickwork and mortar satisfactory and the flue liner not applicable. So I'm assuming the chimney is in stable condition but has no clay liner. How much does that cost and is that something we need to do before we start burning?


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