John3100 wrote:My question first is could i still use my pipe damper below my baro if i wanted too ? Baro would still control draft above mpd ?
Yes and Yes...
John3100 wrote:I was having some issues when it would get very cold and windy out of burning very fast and high stack temps.
I agree with the others, it sounds like you are getting extra combustion air leaking into the stove somewhere.. Probably from a loose seal around the ash pan door, but there could be other locations also..To properly diagnose the runaway fire condition you are describing, you need a draft gauge (manometer) to see what the negative pressure in the fire box is doing.
Then based on the readings you could adjust your dampers to a reasonable steady draft pressure and you would then see a marked improvement with your stoves burning characteristics..
fastcat wrote:I bet that baro doesn't last long once you see how much heat that thing sucks out of the house. Sorry for the bad words on the baro I know I'll get stoned about that and hung on a cross.
No stones needed.. Its not as bad as it seems.. Somewhere between some and most of the air the baro is using is air that would have left the house somewhere else anyways.. It is in effect being re-routed thru the baro instead. This goes for additional cold air infiltration also, not all of the the air the baro uses is additional air infiltration. It has to do with the neutral pressure plane location in the house.
@ John - I'd rather not complicate your runaway fire condition with all that though.. My first plan of attack would be to check for leaks with smoke from an incense and order a manometer, in the mean time tweak the manual damper to slow the burn down when it seems to rage.