Steel stoker cleaning brush

Yanche wrote:

stoker-man wrote:By the way, I can't believe what a difference the cleaning made in the quantity of wood I am using. I was going through a Garden Way cart each day and now it's about 1/2 or less.

Goes to say a lot about the advantage of the self cleaning design of the A-A, Eshland, AHS boilers. The internal combustion blower flings the fly ash at the boiler walls keeping them clean. Continuous self polishing. Even decades old boilers look clean in the combustion path!

Well Yanche I would not go that far The last 6 A-A I seen with matt & Dave where not very Clean Now They where out of sevice for somtime but the Last two Looked like They where burning Bit coal in them Very very dirty And what I have seen in all of them is a water coil Leaking Problem and lots of Rotting steel and Flat Ash Pan Tray rollers Now the rollers are due to lack of cleaning & just years of sevice I Guess you can say the Water coil could be do to the Gaskets leaking and not Taking care of the Problem right away But I do not know why you would not it is not like you can't
see it leaking Just my 2 cents

Water coil leaks can sneak up on you, with the gasket seepage being evaporated before it gets noticed. I think the coil nuts should be checked at a minimum of once a year to snug them up a little.

stoker-man wrote:Water coil leaks can sneak up on you, with the gasket seepage being evaporated before it gets noticed. I think the coil nuts should be checked at a minimum of once a year to snug them up a little.

That's why I like the 4 inch threaded domestic coil mount over the flat plate style. In my opinion it's easier to seal a pipe thread, especially with modern high temperature silicone RTV, than it is to seal a flat plate. A pipe thread joint is a leak with a long spiral path, but you have multiple places on that path to make a seal. A much better design over the flat plate gasket design that depends on an adhesive or crushing of the gasket material for the seal.

Can you post a picture of this type of coil mount?

With the covers on the EFM it's hard to see a leak from the coil. I check mine with a flashlight on occasion to make sure it isn't leaking. I think a better solution to the gasket would be to groove the water coil flange to accept a copper o-ring. Then a torque sequence could be used and it would be almost impossible to "squish" out the seal like it is so easy to do with a gasket. Even if the gasket had steel rings attached where it goes over the studs would prevent over-tightening related leaks. General Motors figured this out with their engine gaskets in the 90's, 99% of oil leaks were caused by the technicians over tightening the gaskets.

My first boiler lasted 25 years. I removed it only because I got a free efm 450 that was returned for warranty. I never once looked at the coil gasket because it was behind a cover. When I stripped the boiler to get it out, the gasket was as hard as steel, but never leaked a drop.

Judging by sales, I would say that 98% of the time, the coil will lime up or otherwise stop working, long before the gasket will fail.

stoker-man wrote:Can you post a picture of this type of coil mount?

Here's a view of a unused domestic coil on a refurbished Eshland coal gun. The coil threads into a standard 4 inch steel pipe coupling that's welded into the boiler vessel. The style shown is one that includes a tapping (plugged) for a boiler drain. An unnecessary item in my opinion.

do i need a different brush for my af150?

What is the gpm rating of the threaded coil?

lincolnmania wrote:do i need a different brush for my af150?

I use what they call a noodle brush to clean the rear tubes in the furnace. It's like a flexible nylon. It's important to keep the tubes opened up as you will loose overfire draft if they are constricted.

Yanche wrote:

stoker-man wrote:Can you post a picture of this type of coil mount?

Here's a view of a unused domestic coil on a refurbished Eshland coal gun. The coil threads into a standard 4 inch steel pipe coupling that's welded into the boiler vessel. The style shown is one that includes a tapping (plugged) for a boiler drain. An unnecessary item in my opinion.

A flat style coil such as EFM's will out perform a tightly bunched round coil such as this. Alot of older boilers used the threaded coil design, but the problem is they are pretty much impossible to remove after years of being in there.Now, on a huge boiler like yours, you can probably get it out. On a smaller boiler, you run the risk of actually ripping it loose or tipping it over when you have the required 48" wrench w/ huge cheater on it trying to get that 4" loose.
Also, that plugged tapping is for an aquastat well, not a drain.

e.alleg wrote:With the covers on the EFM it's hard to see a leak from the coil. I check mine with a flashlight on occasion to make sure it isn't leaking. I think a better solution to the gasket would be to groove the water coil flange to accept a copper o-ring. Then a torque sequence could be used and it would be almost impossible to "squish" out the seal like it is so easy to do with a gasket. Even if the gasket had steel rings attached where it goes over the studs would prevent over-tightening related leaks. General Motors figured this out with their engine gaskets in the 90's, 99% of oil leaks were caused by the technicians over tightening the gaskets.

Remember that the new boilers have a raised flange so you can see it. The key to preventing coil leaks is to keep the unit on all year (some people try to shut it down in the summer-that's a recipie for instant leaks) and snug the bolts regularly. All EFM boilers, oil or coal have very robust coil gaskets and bolts. They don't have much leakage problems.

And for those who never check the gasket at all, like me, there are patch plates to repair the rusted area.

Oilman, are you going to send me a horseshoe brush???

OK Guys, I have found where to get brushes on-line. This would be much cheaper on shipping than getting from me.go to http://www.northlineexpress.com

http://www.northlineexpress.com/itemdes ... RU-47N-H-2


Is this the brush? Quality?