Maintaining House Temps

Hello,
If you want give me a call I will try to help you out,
Ken 830-2670
ps what is you chimney setup? what is your stack temp???
Thanks

Before everyone suggest a bunch of changes, please check and see how the aquastat is setup. If it is independent of the zone controls, it will just maintain the low limit setting. He said the low limit is set at 165....with a differential of ten the boiler would run 155-165 without any signal for a heat call.

One thing I am sure about, if the stoker isn't running all the time there is no sense increasing the feed rate.

The radiation is Slant Fin I believe Dan said, and is all 3/4" copper feeds and returns. Grundfos Circs and the Circ controller that is wired independently of the boiler. Don, check to see if there is a jumper across the TT terminals on the Honeywell aquastat on the left rear of the unit. If not, as Rob said, it is running on the low limit for control. If it is not jumpered, please do so. No voltage issues, it is a dry contact. I heard that you may have a pressure reduction feed that is not working well, and allows extra water in very slowly (city pressure, not boiler pressure) and that is increasing the pressure in the boiler. I also heard that you are going to install an Amtrol 40X floor mount expansion tank. The only way to prevent the pressure increase is to shut off the feed valve to the boiler. and remove a little water to keep the pressure down to the 18 psi range. Back to the aquastat, I would suggest an increase to 185 and the diff of 10 degrees. The only thing you will want to keep an eye on is the pressure until the feed gets updated. I'd go back to 4.5 and 4.5 with the higher temp setting on the aquastat. You said there was a 2" ring and that is now gone, so you need to backtrack a little. Any idea about the coal you use? Rice I assume, but any idea who if comes from in PA? It sounds like the temp of the water circulating is the issue.
Change as few parameters as you can at one time, and make notes about what, when, and how much.

TT not connected....I increased to 180

Yes, Sting is correct about the temperature of the return water once the loop is stabilized. My mind was thinking that until the system was stabilized, there would be alot of 66º water returning to the boiler.

mcguirehg wrote:TT not connected....I increased to 180

Are you getting warm?

Remember that the increase in temp will increase the pressure slightly, so keep a close eye on the temp gauge and shut off the leaking feed water valve.

The heat is up to 70 degrees. I will keep an eye on the thermostat to see the changes and recovery time. The TT terminal is jumped with a return to 4 feed and air. The shower water also appears hotter. The boiler temp is also higher and so are the radiators. . I do appreciate all the support and help. I must add it is a great boiler, I just need to learn the "tricks" of the trade. How long should it take the boiler to increase a 1 degree increase with a setting of 4, 4? I will keep an eye on the pressure.

Good that it's working better. You still should be monitoring the ash ring, aiming to keep it around 2" wide after the unit has been running for 30-45 minutes. If the ring is too big, decrease the air a little, and vice-versa.

Mike

oh.. what whistlenut said.. If you are adding pressure with a bad auto fill "SHUT IT OFF!"

Especially with running higher temp of 180...

Don't want your unit burping as well as the constant fresh water into your system introduces Oxygen to your lines and creates all sorts of bad things that shorten the lifespan of your piping/pumps/boiler and so forth.

A bypass valve/pipe is a piece of pipe that is usually near the Boiler that goes from the supply to the return with a valve in the middle. Normally the valve is set about half open and that is to "MIX" the incoming cold water from your return with the hot water leaving on the supply so as not to "SHOCK" the boiler.

Good luck! Sounds like you have things on the right track!