"Dismantle" How to for Glenwood

I have seen a lot of posts on the forum about how to restore stoves, getting parts, etc. But I am having trouble finding guidance on properly dismantling stoves. In particular I am looking for the procedure you would use to fully dismantle a Glenwood Modern Oak - (but I would guess the answers are pretty generic). Which pieces should come off first, second, etc - and I suspect there is a right and wrong way to do that - Suggestions (especially with photos) would be much appreciated. I have to believe that doing a good job taking it apart is the first step of a successful restoration. I would also appreciate any recommendations on books etc. I don't want to do a lot of these -- just the two I own.

Thanks

Dismantle is really a matter of photographing everything first!!! then start removing all the pieces your able to remove (dome/finial, doors, grate, ashpan, rear pipes, nickle rings, etc.).... OK... now get a good vac and some good rags and clean and vac everything remaining.... their... now your at the tough part (especially if this thing has not been restored before).... take some deep breaths and relax... prepare all your tools, oils, PB blaster, air compressor, ratchets, wenches, sockets, grips, wire brushes, etc.... slow, methodical & relaxed wins this race!!! after the cleaning and vac I would use PB blaster on every single thread, nut, bolt I could find and give it some time to soak in... just start taking her apart one piece at a time, start at the top and work down...

P.S. the firepot in a 6 I believe is thin cast & lined with cement (i have to call on a 6 owner or William to tell us exactly)... I would assume sometimes this refractory is done by bone heads and could be caked high and cementing the barrel to the firepot like calking ... I would assume you would be relining it and id try to carefully remove it all as part of the cleaning/vac process.

Im sure many folks here can give some advise specific to a #6/8 but if this is the stoves first rebuild in the last 50 years... prepare yourself for patience!!! you will surly need to take many bolts on as individual jobs unto themselves! enjoy it... savor each successful extraction as an individual surgery! this is a job of love...

EDIT: opps... I just read "modern oak"... same applies to my comments regarding firepot (William or someone can elaborate about that specifically please?)

One bolt at a time, a Dremel tool with a cutter can help much..

Taking it apart is not difficult. First take off all of the removable stuff like the doors, swingtop and lids. Then start at the top and work down. The fire pot detaches from the base.
The big thing is putting it all back together. If you forget to put something back in proper order, you have to take the stove all apart again to correct it. Somehow I found out about that the hard way.

Thanks guys. Guess i'll dig out the camera and PB Blaster and get to work. My guess is the "heat wrench" (torch) should be kept in the box. I will probably document the whole thing from start to finish and then pass it along to anyone interested. Hopefully this will be successful and the photo story wont look like a comedy routine
thanks again

As William pointed out, remove all the easy-off stuff first.

Then, I found that my Modern Oak was easier to work on laying on it's side. That gives you access to both the screw heads on top, and the square nuts, which are all tucked up under an overhanging edge.

Sharpen your screw driver blades so that they are a sung fit to the screw slots. Tap the screw driver handle lightly to insure it's well set in the screw slot. These steps will greatly reduce the risk of stripping out the screw head slot.

Yes, Liquid Wrench, or other good penetrating oil sprayed on. But they work best if given time to work. Spray and let it soak in for a couple of days. Any nuts that still won't back off, then, a good MAPP torch with a pointed flame is your friend. Heat the nut until all the penetrant burns off. Let it cool and try unfastening.

Sears sells eight point ratchet wrench sockets made for not damaging square nuts because they grab all four corners instead of only two like an open end wrench, or pliers.

Repeat as needed.

Paul

FWIW it has been documented the best oil for getting apart rusted fasteners is a 50/50 mix of atf and acetone. I have worked on a bunch of old cars and it should all be the same. The biggest thing I have found on the cars is to make sure the tool fits the fastener tightly and if need be clean all screw slots with a scribe or similar tool then heat soak and repeat several times. Some light taps with a hammer help to shock things loose after heating and soaking in oil too. The big thing is to be in no hurry, heat soak tap and move to the next one. Reusing an old bolt unless just a decoration is a bad idea as you have lost the thread fit and strength of it. The last thing is don't get greedy, just because starting to get loose does not mean ready to take out. Wiggle it back and forth loosen then tighten back and forth then more heat and oil.