New to Forum - Heat Pumps Suck in PA

 
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volkoff
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Location: Loganton,PA

Post by volkoff » Wed. Jan. 29, 2014 8:09 pm

tsb wrote:No stainless chimney. Block with a clay liner.
Just curious why not stainless. Are you referring to just a stainless double wall pipe or are you referring to a stainless liner in a block chimney? thanks for your input, I love this forum.

Nick


 
KLook
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Other Heating: Wishing it was cold enough for coal here....not really

Post by KLook » Wed. Jan. 29, 2014 8:21 pm

Stainless tends to rust quickly with the sulfur emissions of coal. Some of us ignore this and use SS with no problems. However, that is SS as in high grade double walled stand alone chimneys. If you are going to build a chimney use terra cotta and you will never have to replace it likely.

Kevin

 
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McGiever
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Location: Junction of PA-OH-WV
Stoker Coal Boiler: AXEMAN-ANDERSON 130 "1959"
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: BUCKET A DAY water heater
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Warm Morning 414A
Coal Size/Type: PEA,NUT,STOVE /ANTHRACITE
Other Heating: Ground Source Heat Pump and some Solar

Post by McGiever » Thu. Jan. 30, 2014 5:46 am

Seen a display and the info flyers at Home Depot for Mitsubishi Splits...they now how variable fequency drive compressor and fan motors. This lets them vary the output to match the real load throughout the hour-day-week-month-season.
It is possible to have up to 8 indoor units off 1 outdoor unit.
If interested, might pickup a flyer.

These mini-splits are a very good solution especially for homes w/o already installed ducts.(hydronic heated)

Oh wait, these suck in PA. :funny:

 
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windyhill4.2
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Location: Jonestown,Pa.17038
Stoker Coal Boiler: 1960 EFM520 installed in truck box
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Crane 404 with variable blower
Coal Size/Type: 404-nut, 520 rice ,anthracite for both

Post by windyhill4.2 » Thu. Jan. 30, 2014 6:40 am

There's a lot of hype as to how good those mini-splits are,they sound great, real life results are too cool on the heating end ,time to realize that this thread was posted by a dissatisfied owner of cool heat who wants hot heat !! Lets get the discussion on a coal burning solution. Is the Leisure Line WL110 going to be sufficient,it does offer an oil burner back up for those extended periods when no one is home .Coal is the warm heat,lets focus on that !!!

 
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volkoff
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Post by volkoff » Fri. Jan. 31, 2014 8:30 pm

hello, still hoping for some cost numbers from members on installs. Looking for differences in forced air coal furnace vs coal boiler with radiant pex in floor. Yes I understand all installs are different, just trying to get myself ready to be broke.

 
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windyhill4.2
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Stoker Coal Boiler: 1960 EFM520 installed in truck box
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Crane 404 with variable blower
Coal Size/Type: 404-nut, 520 rice ,anthracite for both

Post by windyhill4.2 » Fri. Jan. 31, 2014 9:20 pm

For whatever reason you seem to be getting more help to try & convince you that your heat pumps are your best choice .? You & I & a few others know the real deal on heat pumps,SO ,if you goggle woodford bros.com they have comparison prices,might be a better place ,i don't know tho .The WL110 is a boiler @ $4300.00 ,the AK110 is a furnace @$3900.00,the boiler has a oil burner for a back up .You will have more $$ involved with a boiler set up especially as you already have hot air ducting in place.The boiler can do your DHW also .If you don't have any other input from other members maybe pm a moderator & see if you should start a new thread with totally different title.I personally do not like when multiple threads are used for the same project as it makes for difficulty following the whole way thru.Good luck.

 
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volkoff
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Post by volkoff » Sat. Feb. 01, 2014 12:32 pm

Well I just got back from my local Leisure Line dealer. I received prices on the AK-220 and the AA-220. the AK is $5133 and the AA is $5523 plus tax and install. This particular dealer like to use 8" 316 stainless double wall chimneys. Is this good or not? He mentioned the 304 stuff lasting two years and never really gave me a life span for the 316 grade. Due to financial reasons I am leaning towards the furnace and away from the boiler. I am guessing an extra $5000 on top of the boiler price for all the plumbing crap needed for the boiler and in floor heat, plus the install price would be more than the furnace. I already have all the duct work, how hard are these furnaces to install and tie into my existing system? If I am planning to use the spring/summer to do so, is this a pretty easy job for a very handy home owner and some very handy home owner friends/family? They gave me a ball park at about $3000 for the install of unit and chimney. I am waiting to hear back from a 25 year chimney man on his suggestions for chimney and hopefully some prices. The 8" double wall from the leisure line guy was around $200-2500 without knowing how many feet.


 
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windyhill4.2
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Coal Size/Type: 404-nut, 520 rice ,anthracite for both

Post by windyhill4.2 » Sat. Feb. 01, 2014 1:25 pm

The $400 difference between the furnace & boiler is deceiving, boiler install is a lot more $$ & time & the radiant floor heat ups those figures.You can do the domestic hot water with either unit,the furnace hook-up should be doable for you with some help .$5000 is probably a little low for boiler & radiant floor heat install. On the chimney, I believe there are threads on here as to the pro & con of stainless vs. masonry ... the masonry will win most of the time as it is a forever thing when done.When I set-up our OWB in 2006,i debated on going to hot water baseboard but $$ & the duct work was already in place,so we are still using the HOT air set-up,i emphasized HOT because that is one of the keys to forced air heating ,having the air hot & not forcing it thru the duct at 90 mph.The simplicity of that is why in your case with existing air ducts it just makes sense to install a furnace & hook it up.I quoted you prices on the smaller unit & for the difference you were smart to look at the bigger unit,you are still suffering from that cool air heat you have,no sense risking a furnace too small to make HOT air.Glad that you posted again,i was worried that you gave up. Are you planning to enjoy HOT heat this winter yet ,or will that only happen for next winter ??

 
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Carbon12
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Other Heating: Heat Pump/Forced Hot Air Oil Furnace

Post by Carbon12 » Sat. Feb. 01, 2014 1:35 pm

If you go with the furnace, be prepared to tie in supply AND return ducting for best performance. Simply pulling return air from the basement will provide unsatisfactory results, for sure.

 
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volkoff
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Post by volkoff » Sat. Feb. 01, 2014 1:58 pm

Carbon12 wrote:If you go with the furnace, be prepared to tie in supply AND return ducting for best performance. Simply pulling return air from the basement will provide unsatisfactory results, for sure.
Just wondering if the tie in on the return side also happens in the basement? I would not think I have to open any walls up on the 1st and 2nd floor to tie in. Might seem like a dumb question but I have learned the most obvious is not always how things are done. Thanks again everyone, I will be on this forum for a while. This is a pretty large investment and I need to make sure I check all my options before making a decision. I figure for the extra cost on the boiler vs the furnace I can use that money to put towards a shed for toy storage and also put some towards finishing the basement. Basically more bang for my buck.
Thanks again all, keep the comments coming.

 
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windyhill4.2
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Stoker Coal Boiler: 1960 EFM520 installed in truck box
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Crane 404 with variable blower
Coal Size/Type: 404-nut, 520 rice ,anthracite for both

Post by windyhill4.2 » Sat. Feb. 01, 2014 2:50 pm

Doesn't the current cool air heat use return ducts ?? if not it would not be that difficult to install returns in the floor,and yes return tie -in would be in the basement with the other duct work.

 
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Carbon12
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Post by Carbon12 » Sat. Feb. 01, 2014 3:01 pm

Yup. You tie in supply and return ducts in the basement near the existing heat pump air handler.

 
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oliver power
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Post by oliver power » Sat. Feb. 01, 2014 3:07 pm

For boiler, all materials, and labor, I'm guessing $12,000.00 - $15,000.00. My boiler is the Keystoker Kaa-2. I bought the boiler itself 8 years ago. It sat in my basement 4 years. After the 4 years, I bought everything else, and did the install. I have about $8,100.00 wrapped up in materials alone. I just priced out a new Kaa-2 yesterday ($4,200.00 Plus Tax). That's about $800.00 more than when I bought mine. It has jumped in price about $100.00 per year. All total, My system cost me $10,400.00. That was about 4 years ago.
Last edited by oliver power on Sat. Feb. 01, 2014 3:45 pm, edited 2 times in total.

 
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McGiever
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Joined: Sun. May. 02, 2010 11:26 pm
Location: Junction of PA-OH-WV
Stoker Coal Boiler: AXEMAN-ANDERSON 130 "1959"
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: BUCKET A DAY water heater
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Warm Morning 414A
Coal Size/Type: PEA,NUT,STOVE /ANTHRACITE
Other Heating: Ground Source Heat Pump and some Solar

Post by McGiever » Sat. Feb. 01, 2014 3:16 pm

That's just crazy. :jawdrop:
Sure am glad I like old iron and am a handy lad. :D

 
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windyhill4.2
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Stoker Coal Boiler: 1960 EFM520 installed in truck box
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Crane 404 with variable blower
Coal Size/Type: 404-nut, 520 rice ,anthracite for both

Post by windyhill4.2 » Sat. Feb. 01, 2014 3:19 pm

Wow,i thought his guess at $5000 + boiler was not enough ,but that much !! Big plus for hot air in this case.


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