new to forum - heat pumps suck in PA

Re: new to forum - heat pumps suck in PA

PostBy: Carbon12 On: Sat Feb 01, 2014 4:22 pm

Yikes! My previously enjoyed 4 year old KA6 boiler was $2000.00. Supplies, tubing and hot water to hot air heat exchanger was about another thousand. I installed myself and the total cost was less than $3500.00. :D
Carbon12
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker KA-6
Coal Size/Type: Rice/Anthracite
Other Heating: Heat Pump/Forced Hot Air Oil Furnace

Re: new to forum - heat pumps suck in PA

PostBy: Uglysquirrel On: Sat Feb 01, 2014 4:45 pm

volkoff wrote: All walls are 2 x 6 blown in cellulose insulation.



A little off topic but this seems very unusual for modern construction. Fiberglass batts are typical, with (I'm thinking) loose cellulose I'd be concerned about settling and moisture build up within the compacted cellulose (if it is compacted). Beside's , thinking is they can install loose cellulose in a new house wall from the inside only if they first install the plastic vapor barrier, then cut a hole in the plastic.

Is my logic correct or is there some unknown to me assurance that some types of loose cellulose do not settle/compact?

Before I spent a lotta money on this house, I'd be checking for mold on the inside of the outside walls especially if there was no vapor barrier (???) , especially the north side.

All this heat pump and wall stuff sounds pretty strange......wonder if the basement wall has footings..... :o
Uglysquirrel
 
Stove/Furnace Model: Pocono

Re: new to forum - heat pumps suck in PA

PostBy: oliver power On: Sat Feb 01, 2014 4:52 pm

Uglysquirrel wrote:
volkoff wrote: All walls are 2 x 6 blown in cellulose insulation.



A little off topic but this seems very unusual for modern construction. Fiberglass batts are typical, with (I'm thinking) loose cellulose I'd be concerned about settling and moisture build up within the compacted cellulose (if it is compacted). Beside's , thinking is they can install loose cellulose in a new house wall from the inside only if they first install the plastic vapor barrier, then cut a hole in the plastic.

Is my logic correct or is there some unknown to me assurance that some types of loose cellulose do not settle/compact?

Before I spent a lotta money on this house, I'd be checking for mold on the inside of the outside walls especially if there was no vapor barrier (???) , especially the north side.

All this heat pump and wall stuff sounds pretty strange......wonder if the basement wall has footings..... :o
They now have a blown in cellulose that sticks to wall, and studs. I believe it has some sort of glue in it (Kind of forget now). But yes, it gets sprayed on like foam, only at a fraction of the cost. Seen it used many times at new construction job sites lately. No plastic needed to hold cellulose.
oliver power
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: KEYSTOKER Kaa-2
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Hitzer 50-93 & 30-95, Vigilant (pre-Vigilant-II)
Baseburners & Antiques: MANY (Mostly when burning wood)
Stove/Furnace Make: HITZER / KEYSTOKER
Stove/Furnace Model: 50-93 & 30-95 , Kaa-2

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Re: new to forum - heat pumps suck in PA

PostBy: volkoff On: Sat Feb 01, 2014 5:01 pm

not sure how boiler/furnace topics turn into "wonder if the basement walls have footings" I do not know how to respond to this other than- what the !@#$%
volkoff
 

Re: new to forum - heat pumps suck in PA

PostBy: windyhill4.2 On: Sat Feb 01, 2014 5:02 pm

I went back & reread the original post,didn't find any thing about mold or foundation issues,his post is on an alternate heat (coal) which will make him warm in his house which the cool air heat currently does not do.He is looking for advise to further his decision on a coal burning system that will provide the desired comfort level he seeks.volkoff i'm with you on that !! :wacko:
windyhill4.2
 
Stove/Furnace Make: Oaktree (OWB)!!!!
Stove/Furnace Model: 600

Re: new to forum - heat pumps suck in PA

PostBy: plumber On: Sat Feb 01, 2014 8:05 pm

As much a I love radiant, this is what I'd do if it were my house.
Have a professional heat loss calculation.
Have a properly sized hydrocoil installed on your air handler and go with the boiler. You will have plenty of heat if sized properly and a much higher level of comfort than regular scorched air. You will also have the option of tying in your existing water heater into the tank less on the boiler. The boiler will give you much more versatility than the furnace with more comfort.
Leisure Line makes a fine product, however you may be pushing the limits of the 110 and would need to go with the 220. I'm speculating on that get that heal loss done and let us know. My guess from the description in your original post is you're around 150,000 btu/H.
Oh, you want a masonry chiming if you can spring it.
plumber
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM 350
Stove/Furnace Make: Leisure Line
Stove/Furnace Model: WL110/165 Boiler

Re: new to forum - heat pumps suck in PA

PostBy: windyhill4.2 On: Sat Feb 01, 2014 8:22 pm

volkoff , I told you that the furnace could do your DHW,but i looked at the info again & don't see that as an option.I still think the LL AK220 with its dual burners is the way to go, 1 burner for the chilly months , 2 burners for the cold weather. Hot air furnace seems to be the logical choice $$ wise for your situation.
windyhill4.2
 
Stove/Furnace Make: Oaktree (OWB)!!!!
Stove/Furnace Model: 600

Re: new to forum - heat pumps suck in PA

PostBy: Uglysquirrel On: Sun Feb 02, 2014 10:50 am

volkoff wrote:not sure how boiler/furnace topics turn into "wonder if the basement walls have footings" I do not know how to respond to this other than- what the !@#$%



Just joking :) on basement footings, I now have learned that some new types of cellulose are sticky and don't eventually compact. Therefore no mold likely .

Guess I should shut my squirrel piehole before speculating though the ol' squirrel did learn something.

Back into hibernation for you, Ug.
Uglysquirrel
 
Stove/Furnace Model: Pocono

Re: new to forum - heat pumps suck in PA

PostBy: Flyer5 On: Sun Feb 02, 2014 11:18 pm

plumber wrote:As much a I love radiant, this is what I'd do if it were my house.
Have a professional heat loss calculation.
Have a properly sized hydrocoil installed on your air handler and go with the boiler. You will have plenty of heat if sized properly and a much higher level of comfort than regular scorched air. You will also have the option of tying in your existing water heater into the tank less on the boiler. The boiler will give you much more versatility than the furnace with more comfort.
Leisure Line makes a fine product, however you may be pushing the limits of the 110 and would need to go with the 220. I'm speculating on that get that heal loss done and let us know. My guess from the description in your original post is you're around 150,000 btu/H.
Oh, you want a masonry chiming if you can spring it.



One thing I have had people tell me is the furnaces really don't scorch the air like a typical furnace setup because of the way the coal trol works with the fan speed and feed rate. It is not a situation where the heat tells the fan to run, The fan switch is only there for a high limit and a enable for the fan. The coal trol controls the fan. Other AK owners please jump in here and either confirm or correct me.
Flyer5
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: Leisure Line WL110
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Leisure Line Pioneer

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