Flyer5 wrote:Acetylene torch works well. I clean around the bots with the sand blaster but wire brush will be good enough. Give the bolts a good sharp rap with a hammer. Heat the door till red around the bolt. Clamp cold vice grips on bolt head it shrinks the bolt quick. Work gently back and forth making sure the bolt is truly turning and not twisting off. I do not recommend a door because the hinges are welded on and fit with the door in place. There is a real good chance a new door will fit we will not guarantee it. If the proper tools are not available a local machine shop usually does not charge much.
I use my Acetylene torch more for taking things apart then putting things together. Heating to a dull red to avoid overheating. A bit gently on cast iron to avoid cracking the casting. Also repeat if needed rather than using to much force. Twist the bolt and one needs to carefully drill to avoid damaging the treads in the door, then use an easy out (as if it was easy
On other occasions, I've also tried heating the bolt itself and chilling several times to break a rust situation like this. That has avoided risk of cracking the casting or damaging another part and seldom hurts. The third cycle almost always works. Any thoughts on that approach?
What machining would be typical with a new door if it doesn't fit? Ideally I'd like two doors, the room it is in is only used for entertainment and if I could quick switch, I could use the steel plate most of the time. I could see why, even if the doors are made with a good jig and casting, the hinge pins might not align. If I couldn't machine a 2nd door myself, taking the whole stove to a shop is not an option without a major tear down. I just won't fit the access assembled.
Unfortunately, I moved into a small town in 1973 and once they extended commuter rail from Boston, I ended up in a higher end suburban town, not rural. Machine shops are gone in surrounding towns/cities now that the area went upscale.
But I'm pretty handy around metal, just wise enough to seek experience on any particular situations new to me. I also still need to order new mounting HW for the new glass & steel plate I now have..
Finally, with the crack I described, is if fairly safe to operate until spring? It's small, so slightly cracked I needed a metal edge to note the outside is cracked. I'm sure not going to buy propane this year if at all possible. The shortage has driven the price out of sight (if I could even get a delivery, the shortage is severe here).
I have two CO alarms per code here and do nave negative pressure in the stove. (good draft). So the only risk I can think of is the small triangle with the crack popping out and being a fire hazard. The small triangle is under one one of the clips is over the cracked segment.
BTW, LL support is as good as it gets. I'd recommend LL to anybody with the note the ceramic on ANY coal stoves ages much faster than wood/pellet stoves. A solution to that is something I'm certain bugs you as much as customers. That is no big deal if anticipated. The ceramic replacement costs is low cost per year compared to fuel alternatives.