New Stoker Owner

 
thurberk
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Location: https://t.me/pump_upp
Stoker Coal Boiler: Alaska Gnome 40
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Post by thurberk » Sun. Jan. 26, 2014 4:19 pm

Hey guys,

I just got an Alaska Gnome 40 stoker and I have a few questions. The Stove is going in my basement and I'm using the direct vent system. I bought stainless pellet vent pipe to go up and out of the house but the elbow doesn't exactly fit the pipe coming out of the back of the stove. Should I tweak the elbow a bit to make it fit or is there some type of adapter that I need? The pipe coming out of the stove is 4" OD, and im guessing the inner wall of the vent pipe is 4" OD as well. How do you clamp a double wall pipe on?

Does anyone else have this stove? Are there any quirks about it? No one I know has even heard of a coal stoker, a friend of my girlfriend pointed me to this website. My father burned coal for years but not in a stoker, he has a chappee coal furnace.

Any help, tips and tricks will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks


 
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Hambden Bob
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Post by Hambden Bob » Sun. Jan. 26, 2014 5:14 pm

Thurberk,Welcome to the Coal Board ! Hang Loose,and be Patient for some replies. We'll see if anyone out there got a Gnome and go from there with how to Safely set it up to PowerVent it out of your Home. Do yourself a huge Service and get at least one or two Carbon Monoxide Detectors to Safeguard your Home and Loved Ones. Also,it wouldn't hurt to get ahold of two magnetic Stove Thermometers. One for the Upper Body of the Stove,and one for the uninsulated portion of pipe at your stove's exit. You'll probably get asked to have on hand a Manometer,which is a handy draft measuring instrument from Dwyer Corp. that can verify your PowerVenter's Draft Setting. I take it that you've got no Chimney Available to use in your Home?

 
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McGiever
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Coal Size/Type: PEA,NUT,STOVE /ANTHRACITE
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Post by McGiever » Sun. Jan. 26, 2014 5:34 pm


 
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Hambden Bob
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Location: Hambden Twp. Geauga County,Ohio
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Harman 1998 Magnum Stoker
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Coal Size/Type: Rice-A-Roni ! / Nut
Other Heating: Pro-Pain Forced Air

Post by Hambden Bob » Sun. Jan. 26, 2014 7:30 pm

When Your Good,You're Damned Good,Mr.McGiever! :up:

 
gregszustak
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Post by gregszustak » Mon. Jan. 27, 2014 5:42 am

I have one, nice stove.
I would recommend emailing Alaska and getting a manual emailed to you.

There is way too much info to put here. Maintenance, cleaning, draft settings.

From the manual -
Masonry Chimney Connection
Existing chimney, determine weather your chimney is suitable for installation. NOTE: It is strongly recommended that
you have your chimney professionally cleaned before installation.
n   Interior masonry chimney’s require a liner kit to be installed minimum requirements 4” - 316 stainless steel
or better quality .006 gage or heavier for the full length of the chimney.
n   Exterior chimney liner is optional but strongly recommended.
n   Class A chimney interior and exterior must of 316 stainless steal or better grade. Liner kit not required but
strongly recommended.
Exterior chimneys do not require liner kits, but it is strongly recommended to size the chimney to match
the venting of the appliance. The 316 stainless steel is a type of alloy, any lesser alloy will deteriorate at
an increased rate. Although 316 stainless steel is a higher quality alloy proper maintenance of the liner
kit must be maintained. Follow manufacturers instructions for cleaning

Pellet Vent Chimney Systems
n   Pellet vent pipe may be installed, size 4” 316 stainless steel lined or better grade. Install stainless steel per
manufacturers instructions. Be sure to seal all joints with high temperature silicone and attach each joint
with three screws

Use a 4” pellet vent pipe to attach stove to chimney. Start with a 4” appliance connector on back of Gnome.
Next attach a tee with plug to appliance adapter. Two 45 degree elbows maybe attached to the tee to center pipe
with back of stove or rotate tee to a 45 degree angle and attach one 45 degree elbow. Either method is acceptable.
Attach pipe as needed and elbow connect to liner in chimney. Follow manufacturers instructions for pipe clearance to
wall. Use high temperature silicone and three screws to connect all joints

 
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dcrane
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Post by dcrane » Mon. Jan. 27, 2014 6:20 am

I will only mention that sometimes I come across folks who swear up and down by all that's holy their 6" inch stove pipe does not fit onto their 6" flu collar on the stove only to discover in the end it fit :shock: ... im not saying thats the case with your's but its worth making certain by ensuring #1 the flu collar is absolutely smooth (no surface rust, etc) and #2 your trying to slide it on perfectly strait on (not even 1 degree of angle as your trying to slip it on). even a thick coat of paint on the stoves flu collar can be the difference between getting it on or pulling your hair hair out by the roots! If you do get it on you would think securing it is SO not necessary because the fit is SO tight... sometimes you need to squeeeze a lil' here or their to get it to make it on! if you get it on... still secure it with a few screws or a large stainless hose clamp ;) best of luck!

 
thurberk
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Joined: Sun. Jan. 26, 2014 2:53 pm
Location: https://t.me/pump_upp
Stoker Coal Boiler: Alaska Gnome 40
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: yes
Hot Air Coal Stoker Furnace: hot air furnace
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: keystoker
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Post by thurberk » Tue. Jan. 28, 2014 5:25 am

Hey, thanks for the replies. I got the adapter that McGiever posted, now im just waiting for a friend to help cut the hole in the side of my house. Hopefully ill have this thing fired up this weekend.

One thing I'm kinda clueless on is what settings for the blowers I should put this on when I go to start it, I have the thermostat option for it, but im gonna guess that this is not a "set it and forget it" type of thing.


 
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WNY
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Post by WNY » Tue. Jan. 28, 2014 5:59 am

TYpcially, when you start it, turn the thermostat down so it's not feeding coal, so the coal can get going on the grates. once you get a good burn, it will take a while to come up to temperatures, only make slight adjustments and let it catch up. You will typically get overshoot because its burning really good when you start it until it starts to turn to ash and it will settle down after a while, may take a couple hours. Good luck.

 
gregszustak
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Post by gregszustak » Wed. Jan. 29, 2014 5:40 am

You need the manual.
You may be looking at a lot of grief without one, a rush job just to have coal burning isn't in your families best interest.

The manual tells you how to set up the thermostat for high & low settings.
The manual tells you where to set your feed for starting.
Your blower setting is optional, depending on the amount of air you want blowing.

If your draft is too low this machine will shut off.
If your draft is too high you could have a hopper fire.

Ask your coal dealer how to get the fire started, the manual is wrong.
Ask your dealer if he may lend you a draft meter.

If you still haven't gotten one PM me, include your email address.

 
thurberk
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Posts: 24
Joined: Sun. Jan. 26, 2014 2:53 pm
Location: https://t.me/pump_upp
Stoker Coal Boiler: Alaska Gnome 40
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: yes
Hot Air Coal Stoker Furnace: hot air furnace
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: keystoker
Hand Fed Coal Stove: @pump_upp - best crypto pumps on telegram !
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Post by thurberk » Wed. Jan. 29, 2014 5:56 pm

I have the manual, I just read the section on starting it. Ill have to get a draft meter.

 
thurberk
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Posts: 24
Joined: Sun. Jan. 26, 2014 2:53 pm
Location: https://t.me/pump_upp
Stoker Coal Boiler: Alaska Gnome 40
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: yes
Hot Air Coal Stoker Furnace: hot air furnace
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: keystoker
Hand Fed Coal Stove: @pump_upp - best crypto pumps on telegram !
Hand Fed Coal Furnace: @pump_upp - best crypto pumps on telegram !
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Post by thurberk » Wed. Jan. 29, 2014 8:08 pm

ok I ordered a manometer, I bought the dwyer mark II model 25. seems to be the only one I could find at a reasonable price that you could read below .1 According to the manual the draft must be set to between .04 and .05

would there be any reason to change the draft setting at any point in time or is this a set it once and youre good forever type of thing?

 
gregszustak
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Post by gregszustak » Thu. Jan. 30, 2014 5:37 am

According to the book - it's good forever.
According to the dealer - it will change a bit after the exhaust starts getting a buildup.

Loosen your allen screw on the draft adjustment rod prior to starting in case it gets too warm to touch.

When you're setting it up it will fluctuate like crazy, probably too high initially, just keep an eye on it until the fire stabalizes.

After you cover the mouse with coal, light the fuse, close the door and wait about 30 seconds before pushing the red button.
If you push it too soon the coal will not stay lit.

Good luck. Ask questions, these guys on the board are great.

 
thurberk
Member
Posts: 24
Joined: Sun. Jan. 26, 2014 2:53 pm
Location: https://t.me/pump_upp
Stoker Coal Boiler: Alaska Gnome 40
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: yes
Hot Air Coal Stoker Furnace: hot air furnace
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: keystoker
Hand Fed Coal Stove: @pump_upp - best crypto pumps on telegram !
Hand Fed Coal Furnace: @pump_upp - best crypto pumps on telegram !
Coal Size/Type: @pump_upp - best crypto pumps on telegram !
Other Heating: Health
Contact:

Post by thurberk » Sat. Feb. 01, 2014 4:25 pm

Well, I lit the stove today, its cranked right up. I think I got it right to its max, the hot coals are about half an inch from the end of the grate and no hot coals are falling into the ash pan. Its been running about 3 hours now. My draft seems to be staying at .05, I cant get it lower than that. However I am seeing flame to the very back of the grate, but the coals arent red hot back there, theres about an inch and a half of unlit coal. Is it normal to see the flame reach back there like that? The hopper is cool and the coal in there is pretty cool as well, I can grab it and pick it up.

 
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Carbon12
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Post by Carbon12 » Sat. Feb. 01, 2014 5:02 pm

The blue ladies (flames) do like to dance. As long as the coal near the hopper is not actually burning, you're good to go.

 
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Carbon12
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Post by Carbon12 » Sat. Feb. 01, 2014 5:13 pm

Do you have a barometric damper or manual pipe damper?


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