windyhill4.2 wrote:Thank you ,grumpy,i had to watch a video again,they are awesome. ONEDOLLAR, is a 70K chubby big enough for his house ? I think some of the stoves that william talks about have more output than that. Michigan & 24' cathedral ceiling & desire to be warm will demand a capable stove.
LsFarm wrote:Hi Pancho, With a 24' cathedral ceiling, you will need a fairly good sized stove..
Are there any upstairs rooms that will benefit from the hot air up against the ceiling? A balcony overlooking the
main room that will get heated as well?
Operating a base heater / base burner also requires a bit more thought and understanding of what the stove is doing, how draft works, what levers and vents need to be manipulated and when and why.
Once an owner operates a stove just a few times, it is really simple.. but don't try to get your neighbor to tend the stove for you if they only can turn on their gas fireplace or make a fire in a fireplace.. it's more involved than that.. or it CAN be more involved than that.. if a person feeds the stove on time and doesn't mess with anything, it's just feed it, and change it's diaper, er, empty the ashpan. close the doors and forget it for another 12 hours.
You will be doing a LOT of reading for the next few days..
But I too can see a nice antique stove in your future, or a nice 'rustic' looking modern stove.. depends on what look you want to have,
titleist1 wrote:Welcome to the forum Pancho. I didn't see it mentioned earlier but are you planning on burning bituminous or anthracite coal? Do you have a couple sources for coal locally or were you going to have a bulk load trucked in?
chrisbuick wrote:Hi Pancho and welcome to the forum. I've learned an incredible amount of extremely valuable coal heating info here, thanks to the help of so many kind members.
I'm currently using a Smith & Anthony parlor stove I just had restored by Emery at the Stove Hospital. It's a circulator with indirect back pipe, which brings cold air up from below the stove by convection.
It's a fantastic stove, but has not proven to be as easy to run as I thought initially. I'm finding that I have to keep the ash relatively low, to keep from loosing the fire. it's been very frustrating, but I think I'm getting it (thanks to Oros35 for his valuable input). My point is that base heaters have a learning curve - allow yourself time early in the season to test fire and get acquainted with what ever you buy. I didn't get my finished Smith Anthony from Emery until the end of December. I guess the plating took a long time.
I early on decided that I would concentrate on New England made cast iron stoves, based on Emery's recommendations (Glenwood,.Crawford, Smith & Anthony, Herald, etc.) One thing I quickly learned is that all these antique stoves kicking around are NOT equal. There are tons of inferior stoves around - it takes a lot of study to be able to recognize the gems.
I have managed to find a lot of wonderful stoves - mostly on Craigslist (I got the Smith & Anthony on eBay). I traded a bunch of stoves I'd accumulated to Emery and Brandon, including a Glenwood Oak 40 I had. It's a POWERFUL heater, and would be a perfect match for your needs - but it's a very high quality Oak which can burn wood as well as coal - not a base heater. I made a few mistakes, but I'm very happy with my little collection as it stands now.
In closing, I would strongly recommend you buy a restored New England made cast iron stove - either an Oak or a Base Heater - from Emery/Brandon at the Stove Hospital in Little Compton RI. They won't steer you wrong, and they will crate/ship the restored stove to you, for a modest extra fee.
Good luck - Chris
Pancho wrote:he said in the vid that the stove 'cruises along' at 350 degrees. I assume that's because he had it dampened down. When you have one of those crankin'...what's the stove surface temp?.
At 350 I'd freeze my arse off.
dlj wrote:I own a baseburner, have for many years. Now, I like the stove a whole lot, but just thinking about living in Michigan, the availability of wood compared to anthracite, and thinking about the long range - I'd invest in an Oak rather than a baseburner or one of the more sophisticated coal specific stoves. The Oaks will burn wood well (not as well as a modern wood stove) and they will burn coal well. Not quite as efficiently as one of the more sophisticated coal specific stoves, but you'll be hard pressed to really notice the difference. You will notice their much better ability to burn wood on the other hand. Years ago when I was burning wood only, I almost sold my baseburner to get a good Oak because they worked so much better burning wood. I didn't because someone lent me a good Oak to use at the time so the "need" disappeared, so to speak. Now that I burn exclusively anthracite, I'm glad I have my baseburner, but I'm also sure if I'd sold it and bought a good Oak way back when, I'd be just as happy. The up-front cost of an Oak from one the restorers, is probably going to be less than a baseburner. It will give you more flexibility in fuel choice at the same time costing less. The performance drop using coal will be hardly noticeable, the performance increase using wood will be very noticeable. You can still burn coal exclusively if you wish, but in years down the road if the cost of coal drastically changes, you can always just switch back to wood and keep on heating...
Just another point of view for you to ponder...
LsFarm wrote:Very good point dj, And if pancho has enough room, and has some exposed flue pipe, the pipe will radiate a lot of heat anyway.
I'm concerned about the size and height of the room.. you could have a huge stove of any type, flavor or design, and still have a cold room on the floor level. I'd assume he has ceiling fans.. but ?? We need more information.
Hey Pancho !! you done pushing and stacking snow yet ??