gaining/becoming more efficient...

gaining/becoming more efficient...

PostBy: AlmostThere On: Fri Feb 07, 2014 11:15 pm

Wow has it been a good year to burn coal but then again I'm not writing anything here this bbbn board doesn't know first hand. Here are my questions.. :D

I want to become efficient, burning less coal if at all possible. My set up needs work and it is as follows: ds stove basement#4 - a straight pipe without MPD or baro. Are these items essential to burning better? I can control my stove nicely with the air regulator on the stove, so I never really worried about this until now since I plan on redoing all my stove pipe. How would you set the stove pipe up and what so what would you include?
AlmostThere
 
Stove/Furnace Make: DS
Stove/Furnace Model: Basement #4

Re: gaining/becoming more efficient...

PostBy: franco b On: Fri Feb 07, 2014 11:21 pm

I would think you need several thermometers and a manometer to measure draft. These will tell you if you need anything further. Unless your draft is very strong I don't think you need anything in the way of dampers.
franco b
 
Hand Fed Coal Stove: V ermont Castings 2310, Franco Belge 262
Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood Modern Oak 114
Coal Size/Type: nut and pea

Re: gaining/becoming more efficient...

PostBy: AlmostThere On: Fri Feb 07, 2014 11:29 pm

franco b wrote:I would think you need several thermometers and a manometer to measure draft. These will tell you if you need anything further. Unless your draft is very strong I don't think you need anything in the way of dampers.


I have thermometers and can adjust my stove temps easy between 300-600 just by controlling th machine damper.......
AlmostThere
 
Stove/Furnace Make: DS
Stove/Furnace Model: Basement #4

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Re: gaining/becoming more efficient...

PostBy: Carbon12 On: Fri Feb 07, 2014 11:48 pm

Every coal stove should be run with the aid of a manometer. Without draft readings, you're only guessing the stove is running well and guessing it is running safely.
Carbon12
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker KA-6
Coal Size/Type: Rice/Anthracite
Other Heating: Heat Pump/Forced Hot Air Oil Furnace

Re: gaining/becoming more efficient...

PostBy: franco b On: Fri Feb 07, 2014 11:53 pm

AlmostThere wrote:I have thermometers and can adjust my stove temps easy between 300-600 just by controlling th machine damper.......

If the stove is holding temperature steady according to your settings in both high and low draft conditions then I can't see using any damper. A manometer is nice to have though to know the draft exactly.
franco b
 
Hand Fed Coal Stove: V ermont Castings 2310, Franco Belge 262
Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood Modern Oak 114
Coal Size/Type: nut and pea

Re: gaining/becoming more efficient...

PostBy: Lightning On: Sat Feb 08, 2014 5:05 am

According to their site, that stove has a bi metallic combustion air regulator so it wouldn't necessarily need a damper to maintain steady heat output. Does this unit have fixed or adjustable secondary air vents or none at all? If the draft is excessive, it could be pulling in more secondary air (with fixed) than needed which would result in unnecessary heat going up the chimney. Like the others mention, a manometer would be needed before making any decisions on a damper.
Lightning
 
Hand Fed Coal Furnace: Clayton 1537G
Coal Size/Type: Nut Size / White Ash

Re: gaining/becoming more efficient...

PostBy: jjs777_fzr On: Sat Feb 08, 2014 8:10 am

Can you upload some photos of the stove and pipe ?

Also - we'd like to see some temp readings of the stove and flu pipe.
If you only use magnetic temp gauges then get a IR temp gun - much more accurate.
jjs777_fzr
 
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Penn Coal Stove & Chubby
Other Heating: CFM Wood Stove & Englander 25-PDVC Pellet Stove

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