SWG Power Vent on a Keystoker

I have a question for the great minds located here.

First off What a wonderful site. I've been spending the past several nights reading and reading. Well worth it. Thanks for having it available.

My son just purchased a used Keystoker 90. Due to the desired location for the placement of the stove (bottom side of a steep pitched roof), he is considering going the power vent route. He lives in a small cape cod. Due to recommendations about keeping a chimney 10 feet away from the roof, he would probably have 10 to 12 feet of pipe sticking straight up to maintain that clearance, with no real way to support it, In addition to it looking unsightly.

I contacted Keystoker directly and they did not recommend the power vent unless the stove is returned to them and they modify the stove at the factory. I'm sure this is due to liability issues.

I contacted LL and they suggested I post the question here for your input.

Does this sound like the logical route to go ???


Thanks in advance,

Rick

Keystokers are DIRECT Vent mounted directly to the stove, therefore, pressuring the exhaust pipe, big bulky thing. Yes, because you have to add the Flue Switch and wiring in case of exhaust failure or clogging, it shuts it down.

However, the Power Vent (SWG) type that mounted on the wall and pulls the exhaust gases up and out.
A couple different ways, but you should be able to mount the SWG power vent on the wall and hook up the pipe to the stove without too much problem.

WNY,

Thanks for the reply. I figured that the SWG PV would work.

I know that Keystoker makes DV Models but he purchased the top vent model. It was just too good a deal to pass up. I'm assuming (dangerous I know) that Keystoker just wants to convert it to a DV model so they can cover their butt....... However with the CO monitors, I don't think we will have any real issues.

Question, any idea on how much electric the PV fan consumes since the fan is running 24/7 ???

Looks like I had better get a manometer to set the whole thing up and assure the correct settings are set on the baro. and also to set the PV speed ???

Going to try the local dealer tomorrow for all of the necessary piping otherwise it looks like a road trip this weekend.


Rick

A manometer to set up the baro and the SWG speed is a very good idea.. I would consider it a necessity. With a full time manometer, you can monitor the draft for reduced draft due to fly ash accumulation in the pipes and the SWG. This way you can clean it when it is needed, but before the CO detectors set off alarms..

I'm sure you will be fine, safe and very happy with your stove set up as you are planning...

Let us know how it works out.

Greg L.

.

Tomorrow starts the big install........

Picked up the Dwyer model 25 from Graingers on Friday........ Got the PV from LL today........ Just watched the DVD that Jerry's wife gave us. Nice job explaining everything Jerry......Picked up 2 extra CO monitors tonight.... And then the kid bought some floor registers to get the heat upstairs from the stove room.

We'll see how it all goes tomorrow...But we proably won't have enough time to fire it up....May have to wait until next weekend. My son has never used coal or a stoker....He's apprehensive to be doing it himself during the week....Of course he could always get a cot for me to sleep along side of it for a night or 2.


Question - How should I go about installing brake line for the permanent install of the manometer ???

Suggestions encouraged.

Looks like I should be taking multiple digital pics to post later.



Rick

Rick 386 wrote: How should I go about installing brake line for the permanent install of the manometer

Hey Rick, I would use the little fitting that came in the kit and tap the pipe with an 1/8" pipe tap, screw in the fitting and use the hose that came in the kit. If it melts (mine has been on without melting for over a year) then use a small piece of automotive vacuum line (rubber) and adapt to the hose from the manometer to the fitting. The automotive hose is rated for under hood temps and will not melt unless your flue temps are higher than they oughta be.

Well,

We finally got it up and running yesterday................Having read a lot of the posts here in the past several weeks, we did a full thorough cleaning of the entire unit before firing it up.......I could not believe the pile of fines in the combustion area.....Pulled the fan off and cleaned as much as possible....it looked like someone had emptied a bucket of fine gravel in it.

We lit it using the starter bag method along with the s.s. ring to hold everything in place......In the future I think I'm going to have him use the coal mice....I think they might be easier.....(Side note: I use crushed charcoal to light my Alaska at work for the past few years with no problem.. But I'm more experienced that the kid is)

As the following pics show, I think we got it dialed in pretty goood so far. The P.V. is running about 2/3 on the rheostat and the draft looks good. Stack temps are pretty good also.










Now we have to work on getting the temps to move throughout the house.....Already put 2 registers in to get the heat upstairs using the stairs as the return.......Room where the stove is located is 80* + right now......Far end of the house on the same level is 63* but that is located near some old windows and door......

Good test tonight with the temps plummeting and the wind a blowin' rather strong........


Thanks to all for the help



Rick