Chubby - to Sell or Not to Sell...?

 
User avatar
michaelanthony
Member
Posts: 4550
Joined: Sat. Nov. 22, 2008 10:42 pm
Location: millinocket,me.
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Vigilant 2310, gold marc box stove
Hand Fed Coal Furnace: Gold Marc Independence
Baseburners & Antiques: Home Sparkle 12
Coal Size/Type: 'nut
Other Heating: Fujitsu mini split, FHA oil furnace

Post by michaelanthony » Fri. Mar. 07, 2014 5:08 pm

I say block the baro nice and tight and run a wood fire through her using the mpd and see if you can pump out some heat and work on the chimney in the off season.


 
scalabro
Member
Posts: 4197
Joined: Wed. Oct. 03, 2012 9:53 am
Location: Western Massachusetts
Baseburners & Antiques: Crawford 40, PP Stewart No. 14, Abendroth Bros "Record 40"
Coal Size/Type: Stove / Anthracite.
Other Heating: Oil fired, forced hot air.

Post by scalabro » Fri. Mar. 07, 2014 5:10 pm

freetown fred wrote:Come on, was 50 painful? :clap: toothy
No actually, the doctor was quite nice and the nurse was hot!

 
User avatar
Lightning
Site Moderator
Posts: 14669
Joined: Wed. Nov. 16, 2011 9:51 am
Location: Olean, NY
Stoker Coal Boiler: Modified AA 130
Coal Size/Type: Pea Size - Anthracite

Post by Lightning » Fri. Mar. 07, 2014 6:07 pm

I dunno fellas.. I'm having a hard time thinking a few feet of chimney is the cure all.. How about exploring the possibility of negative pressure in the house.

Micloy, have you tried cracking a window near the stove? Do you have any appliances that force air out of the house such as gas hot water heater, clothes dryer, cook stove exhaust fans, bathroom fans.. Its already been said, a manometer will be your best recon information in fixing your draft failures..

 
User avatar
freetown fred
Member
Posts: 30300
Joined: Thu. Dec. 31, 2009 12:33 pm
Location: Freetown,NY 13803
Hand Fed Coal Stove: HITZER 50-93
Coal Size/Type: BLASCHAK Nut

Post by freetown fred » Fri. Mar. 07, 2014 6:25 pm

Negative, smegative--the chimney ain't high enough ;)

 
scalabro
Member
Posts: 4197
Joined: Wed. Oct. 03, 2012 9:53 am
Location: Western Massachusetts
Baseburners & Antiques: Crawford 40, PP Stewart No. 14, Abendroth Bros "Record 40"
Coal Size/Type: Stove / Anthracite.
Other Heating: Oil fired, forced hot air.

Post by scalabro » Fri. Mar. 07, 2014 6:30 pm

freetown fred wrote:Negative, smegative--the chimney ain't high enough ;)
A manometer will reveal all........

 
User avatar
freetown fred
Member
Posts: 30300
Joined: Thu. Dec. 31, 2009 12:33 pm
Location: Freetown,NY 13803
Hand Fed Coal Stove: HITZER 50-93
Coal Size/Type: BLASCHAK Nut

Post by freetown fred » Fri. Mar. 07, 2014 6:36 pm

I guess what I'm tryin to get across here is that--when ya see something as obvious as per-say--a chimney that in no way meets tried & true height--ya fix the obvious first & then ya can play with all the lil gadgets you want. For the record guys, people were burnin coal, wood, whatever long before baro's, mano's, etc were even thought of--I'm one that likes to start at the beginning of situations as far as solutions go & go from there IF needed.

 
scalabro
Member
Posts: 4197
Joined: Wed. Oct. 03, 2012 9:53 am
Location: Western Massachusetts
Baseburners & Antiques: Crawford 40, PP Stewart No. 14, Abendroth Bros "Record 40"
Coal Size/Type: Stove / Anthracite.
Other Heating: Oil fired, forced hot air.

Post by scalabro » Fri. Mar. 07, 2014 6:42 pm

It looks to me that his chimney should draft just fine in calm conditions. Getting it higher will definitely help during windy conditions for sure.

I want to see a clear picture of what that thingy is on the top toothy


 
User avatar
Lightning
Site Moderator
Posts: 14669
Joined: Wed. Nov. 16, 2011 9:51 am
Location: Olean, NY
Stoker Coal Boiler: Modified AA 130
Coal Size/Type: Pea Size - Anthracite

Post by Lightning » Fri. Mar. 07, 2014 7:10 pm

Yeah really.. what is on top that chimney and could it be part of the draft problem..?

 
User avatar
freetown fred
Member
Posts: 30300
Joined: Thu. Dec. 31, 2009 12:33 pm
Location: Freetown,NY 13803
Hand Fed Coal Stove: HITZER 50-93
Coal Size/Type: BLASCHAK Nut

Post by freetown fred » Fri. Mar. 07, 2014 7:16 pm

Almost looks like a bird house of sorts :shock: I did offer a solution earlier in this topic :)

 
User avatar
mikloy
Member
Posts: 38
Joined: Tue. Nov. 05, 2013 12:55 am
Location: Plymouth, MA
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Chubby Sr.
Coal Size/Type: nugget
Other Heating: propane forced hot air

Post by mikloy » Fri. Mar. 07, 2014 7:17 pm

The orange thingy is a clay cap... Heat wave tomorrow (45?) i'll try and get the ladder up for shits and giggles!

not disagreeing with you at all freetown fred, but just out of curiosity.... the height of the chimney clearing the peak of the roof makes sense for fumes getting in windows, attic vents, etc. How does this affect the draft? Is it relative to the volume of air in the house? in other words, If I had a ranch with a 15' peak (estimating - no idea) the chimney would not be nearly as high as what I should have here. Again, just curious.

I'll get my buddy's .12 gauge! :rambo3:

If I do cap the baro, How am I going to see the squirrels? :D

 
User avatar
michaelanthony
Member
Posts: 4550
Joined: Sat. Nov. 22, 2008 10:42 pm
Location: millinocket,me.
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Vigilant 2310, gold marc box stove
Hand Fed Coal Furnace: Gold Marc Independence
Baseburners & Antiques: Home Sparkle 12
Coal Size/Type: 'nut
Other Heating: Fujitsu mini split, FHA oil furnace

Post by michaelanthony » Fri. Mar. 07, 2014 7:24 pm

[quote="Lightning"]Yeah really.. what is on top that chimney and could it be part of the draft problem..?[/quote]

http://www.chimneypot.com/PotsListByCat.cfm?PotCategoryID=1 scroll around and you'll find the right one.

:oops: sorry guys didn't see mikloy' answer :oops:
Last edited by michaelanthony on Fri. Mar. 07, 2014 7:37 pm, edited 1 time in total.

 
User avatar
freetown fred
Member
Posts: 30300
Joined: Thu. Dec. 31, 2009 12:33 pm
Location: Freetown,NY 13803
Hand Fed Coal Stove: HITZER 50-93
Coal Size/Type: BLASCHAK Nut

Post by freetown fred » Fri. Mar. 07, 2014 7:26 pm

When you get wind--& not that much--coming over the roof peak, it will drop & fromm the looks of your chimney, it'll draft right down it--"theoretically" speaking--BUT, when you pull that THING off the top--as I suggested before--light the stove up & let her go for a good while. If those CO alarms don't register, you are good for this season--while you're up there, eyeball the chimney top & roof peak & see what exactly she looks like--bottom line--the proof is in the pudding--get that top thing off & go from there:)

 
User avatar
oliver power
Member
Posts: 2970
Joined: Sun. Apr. 16, 2006 9:28 am
Location: Near Dansville, NY
Stoker Coal Boiler: KEYSTOKER Kaa-2
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Hitzer 50-93 & 30-95, Vigilant (pre-2310), D.S. 1600 Circulator, Hitzer 254

Post by oliver power » Fri. Mar. 07, 2014 8:46 pm

I agree wholly with Fred. The chimney needs to go higher. The peak of your house is 54" higher than the roof at the eave. Your chimney block is only 32" + what is sticking out the block. Lets call it 40 inches total. So, the peak of your roof is 14 inches higher than the top of your chimney. Yes, wind coming from the west, over the peak, will down draft. I'm not quite sure if the down draft would reach the chimney. I'm guessing maybe not. One thing for sure, it isn't helping the chimney draft any. And being an exterior (Cold) chimney makes it worse. At least you don't have the direct wind pounding the chimney. If it were my chimney, I'd raise it up another 5 blocks. I don't have a good view of the chimney cap. So, hard to say. You may want to pull it off, and give it a try. I do believe in hats over the chimney. A simple hat, not a closed up chimney cap type deal. Now, here's one thing I'd check before going crazy on anything. Make sure your stove pipe goes to, or barley into the clay flue liner. I've actually seen stove pipe stuck far enough into the chimney, it sealed against the opposite wall of the liner. The people would pull the stove pipe out, check the chimney for blockage, and see no blockage. Then stick the pipe back in, all the way to the opposite side, blocking the pipe. So, to start with, make sure the pipe isn't shoved too far into the chimney. Then cover the barometric damper. Oh, also as mentioned, for make-up air, crack a window open if needed. Let us know.........

 
User avatar
D-frost
Member
Posts: 1186
Joined: Sun. Dec. 08, 2013 7:10 am
Location: Southern New Hampshire
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Harman MK ll
Hand Fed Coal Furnace: Yukon Eagle I (multi-fuel oil, wood/coal)
Baseburners & Antiques: Herald 'fireside oak'
Coal Size/Type: nut/stove-Blaschak/Lehigh

Post by D-frost » Fri. Mar. 07, 2014 9:05 pm

Your stove is in the basement, right. You have an excellent stove-keep it. With 20+ feet of chimney you should not have a draft problem. I'm with Fred on this cap removal-12 gauge, 16 gauge, 20 gauge. Just don't miss, or you will have visitors!
Also, check the clean-out door. It's outside and above the stove. I'm thinking you have a leaky door. In fact, seal it with duct tape, or silicone. And, pull the pipe from the wall in the basement, light up a cigar, and see where the smoke goes. Don't give up, unless you have a ton of money to buy oil.

 
User avatar
nortcan
Member
Posts: 3146
Joined: Sat. Feb. 20, 2010 3:32 pm
Location: Qc Canada

Post by nortcan » Fri. Mar. 07, 2014 9:46 pm

Hi, having a brand new home, I supposed it's quite air tight, don't know the code in your area, but in many places an air exchanger is needed in all new house, to bring fresh air in and expulse humidity and polluted air out, while recovering about 80% of the heat.
So if the chimney is not obstructed, and if the house has no air exchanger you could open a window just a few inches to have outside air coming in and see if it helps.


Post Reply

Return to “Hand Fired Coal Stoves & Furnaces Using Anthracite”