350 restoration

Re: 350 restoration

PostBy: plumber On: Sun Mar 23, 2014 5:00 pm

Lu47Dan wrote:Plumber, If you can not find one, I could machine one out of steel for you. All I would need is the old part sent to me, so I can get the dimensions off of it.
PM me If you are interested.
Dan.


I appreciate the offer, I guess I'd need to find the other half!!
plumber
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM 350

Re: 350 restoration

PostBy: JRDepew On: Mon Mar 24, 2014 9:35 am

Here is a thread on the round door latch:

EFM Round door latch

Mine was broken and I made one out of a piece of sheet stock, didn't take long and wont snap like the cast original. On the other hand, many people have a broken latch and don't worry, as the weight of the door against the gasket will seal.

For the broken studs on my restoration, I took a bolt, cut the head off, then welded the cut off end in the hole on the base. I took a grinder to any excess and was back in business. Take everyone's word on here and put some anti-seize on ALL threads on these boilers. You will thank yourself later if you ever have to take something apart.

Joe
JRDepew
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM 350

Re: 350 restoration

PostBy: plumber On: Mon Mar 24, 2014 6:25 pm

Now a rope gasket question.
I have to get some but what sizes? I need to seal up the fire door, the cleanout cover, the auger tube, and the ash door.
plumber
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM 350

Re: 350 restoration

PostBy: JRDepew On: Fri Mar 28, 2014 11:02 am

I used 1/4-5/16 inch rope for everything but the ash door I think:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000H5 ... UTF8&psc=1

For the ash door I used 5/8" flat gasket:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KK ... UTF8&psc=1

Good luck,
Joe
JRDepew
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM 350

Re: 350 restoration

PostBy: plumber On: Fri Mar 28, 2014 11:13 am

I figured the clean out and fire door were 1/4. I was unsure about the winding around the auger tube. Flat gasket didn't work on my ash door, still not tight. I guess that one is an individual boiler trial and error. I have 3/4 9th the door now, I'm going to have to try 5/8 as it's way too tight and latching the door is a struggle.
plumber
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM 350

Re: 350 restoration

PostBy: Rob R. On: Fri Mar 28, 2014 11:23 am

I just looked at mine, ash door gasket is 5/8".
Rob R.
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM DF520
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Hitzer 50-93
Other Heating: Dad's 1953 EFM Highboy

Re: 350 restoration

PostBy: JRDepew On: Fri Mar 28, 2014 11:33 am

plumber wrote:I figured the clean out and fire door were 1/4. I was unsure about the winding around the auger tube. Flat gasket didn't work on my ash door, still not tight. I guess that one is an individual boiler trial and error. I have 3/4 9th the door now, I'm going to have to try 5/8 as it's way too tight and latching the door is a struggle.


Winding around the auger tube was perfect with a couple wraps using the 1/4-5/16 gasket I had...give it a try.
JRDepew
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM 350

Re: 350 restoration

PostBy: plumber On: Sat Mar 29, 2014 6:04 pm

Progress.......
Finally got the boiler on the base!! What a fun time that was. The engine hoist made it easier, but my tight basement didn't help maneuvering the beast into place. Well the hard work is done, now on to the fun stuff. I can pipe it in! !
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plumber
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM 350

Re: 350 restoration

PostBy: plumber On: Sat Mar 29, 2014 6:05 pm

Oh I'm setting the tankless coil. Are there any torque specs on the nuts? I couldn't find anything with a search or from EFM.
plumber
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM 350

Re: 350 restoration

PostBy: Rob R. On: Sat Mar 29, 2014 6:40 pm

plumber wrote:Oh I'm setting the tankless coil. Are there any torque specs on the nuts? I couldn't find anything with a search or from EFM.


"Snug" is the spec. Watch for a slight gasket squeeze, but do not over tighten. It is easy to snug the nuts if it drips on the first fill, but it sucks if the gasket gets split from being too tight.
Rob R.
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM DF520
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Hitzer 50-93
Other Heating: Dad's 1953 EFM Highboy

Re: 350 restoration

PostBy: Lu47Dan On: Sat Mar 29, 2014 7:45 pm

Plumber, are you going to insulate the boiler?
Looking nice.
Dan.
Lu47Dan
 
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Sears circulator air tight stove.
Other Heating: Crown 115,000 BTU oil fired boiler(house) Weil Mclain 150,000BTU oil fired boiler(Shop)

Re: 350 restoration

PostBy: plumber On: Sat Mar 29, 2014 8:16 pm

I do plan on insulating. I'm not sure if I'm going to insulate the boiler itself or the jacket. Some of the jacket has some real lousy insulation on it that needs to be stripped. I also am looking for a suitable product to use.
plumber
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM 350

Re: 350 restoration

PostBy: Lu47Dan On: Sun Mar 30, 2014 12:37 am

Fiberglass board insulation is what I would use.
http://www.buyinsulationproductstore.com/servlet/the-487/Certainteed-Rigid-Fiberglass-Board/Detail
Cut the sides to size first than lay out and cut the opening for the ports, install the insulation on the boiler. than cut the top to fit over the insulation on the sides and repeat the layout for the ports. Install the top and than tape the exposed edges of the insulation. You can leave the bottom edge bare to allow the insulation to breathe.
It is a lot more durable than the roll type of fiberglass blanket insulation.
Dan.
Lu47Dan
 
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Sears circulator air tight stove.
Other Heating: Crown 115,000 BTU oil fired boiler(house) Weil Mclain 150,000BTU oil fired boiler(Shop)

Re: 350 restoration

PostBy: plumber On: Sun Mar 30, 2014 8:49 am

Thanks for the link, Dan. I take it it's more preferable to insulate the boiler vs the jacket? It seems a lot easier.

What would the recommended thickness be?
plumber
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM 350

Re: 350 restoration

PostBy: Lu47Dan On: Sun Mar 30, 2014 12:58 pm

Plumber, the big boilers I am use to installing are easier to insulate than the residential sized boilers are. Because they are so large you can work around the piping and controls.
1" board should be enough for your boiler. Going thicker sometimes does not pay.
Insulating the boiler itself will contain the heat better as you can seal all the edges and corners where the sheets come together. Where your DHW coil go in the boiler I would leave about an 1-1/2" around the flange for inspection of the gasket for leaks than build a box out of the insulation board to cover the coil. Than you can remove it to inspect the gasket once a year for leaks.
You are going to have some heat loss into the area that the boiler is in anyway you do it, as there will be heat coming off the fire door and the piping.
The blanket type insulation is easier to install after all the piping is installed on the boiler.
How is your jacketing designed? Can you install it after you add the board insulation to the boiler? I have a friend that's a Union Insulator, he gave me guidance when I re-insulated a former girlfriends OWB, that chewed up by mice and squirrels. I used 2" board on it and than sealed all the seams with tape and mastic, and than re-installed the jacket.
It burns less wood now and holds the heat longer than it did when it was brand new. It used to over heat the two car garage it was in. Now it just keeps the garage at about 55°F when it is 20°F outside.
Dan .
Lu47Dan
 
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Sears circulator air tight stove.
Other Heating: Crown 115,000 BTU oil fired boiler(house) Weil Mclain 150,000BTU oil fired boiler(Shop)