Thanks for all your help. Thats exactly the place my son will be calling tomorrow. If they have the parts I will be headed to Shenandoah in the morning. We are told they open at 8am so wish us luck. My son is the only person I have to work on this unit so its a learning procedure for him also.
Problem solved. It turns out it was the side rails in the firebox. This would also explain why the reset button kept popping on the old motor. We replaced that motor and it still would not run right although the new motor reset didn't pop. All this happened in just a few days time. When my son took it apart last night the rail next to the door (where you look at or light the fire when starting furnace) actually crumbled. The other side was cracked and warped and they were in pretty bad shape. Son had a friend that knew a guy that actually had some spare parts so son picked what we needed plus a few other items for future use if needed. I got home from work at 11:30 tonight and he just finished up 1/2 hour before and had a beautiful fire going. House temperature was 40 degrees and that was just too cold for me. Last night was a cold one not having any heat (live in a large single in the country) even my 3 cats were so cold (their fur) they probably didn't know what to think. Anyway, thank you all for the help/suggestions you offered.
em, good it got fixed. Now a little electric motor information for you. As they age, circuit breakers and thermo-overloads trip at lower amperage load and temperature loading, basically they wear out. The new motor with a new circuit breaker or thermo-overload could handle the extra draw that the bad slides caused. I have seen this on several occasions, once on an air compressor, once on a commercial garage door opener and once on a large redial arm drill 7-1/2HP 3phase motor. The plant electrician diagnosed the RAD's problem as a bad contactor. The plant sold the RAD to a friend of mine and I looked at it for him. I pulled the breaker out of the panel and replaced it with a spare that was in the "spare parts" box and the problem went away. The plant did not need the RAD so they sold it instead of fixing it. Dan.
Coupler...is that the thing that connects the squirrel cage to the gear box? If so, been there done that, know exactly what your talking about. (If not clue me in). With the parts my son found there is also a coupler, and a gear box for sure. There's other items but I cant remember exactly what all he brought home. And as stated above, I'll be good for 20yrs, I hope so because this is the cheapest warmest heat around. Thank you all for responding with solutions.
The squirrel cage hub end is an exact mate to the Lovejoy. In a pinch if you broke your coupler a standard 1/2" to 1/2" flex coupler ( Lovejoy and 1/2 to 1/2 both available at Grainger) a short piece of 1/2" round stock and half of a Lovejoy with the center rubber isolator would work fine. But the easier thing to do is call Mark's Supply and purchase one for a spare.
OMG......This furnace, now after replacing all of the parts mentioned above there is still something wrong. The fire box makes a noise as it should be being pulled back towards the hopper. We have emptied the hopper and looked for anything like a rock or piece of coal that may be holding it up or may be stuck there and can't find anything. The result is the fire stays extremely low back towards the hopper. I have 3 I think (maybe 4, I don't remember as I type this) coils and the fire barely reaches the 1st coil resulting in not circulating through house because water temp does not get high enough to circulate plus furnace (motor) never stops running. Help.......