Rust Removal...
- Sunny Boy
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If I remember correctly, phosphoric acid is the active ingredient in navel jelly.
It blistered out under a red oxide auto primer and catalyzed acrylic enamel that I had painted a car with. All the blisters were over rust pits that still had the dry, white residue of the navel jelly, applied as per directions. I never used it again.
Now, 90% of my paint/rust removal is using various forms of fine blasting media such as sand, glass beads, ground glass, black beauty, etc.. Which different media gets used is dictated by the surface and material being cleaned. The other 10% gets cleaned with fast-grade lacquer thinners, which doesn't leave anything of itself behind to contaminate the refinishing process.
I've never had a paint system failure in over 30 years since I switched to using inert blasting media and stopped using chemical strippers.
However, for small, simple shaped parts, if proper cleaning and neutralizing is done, then I can see using certain chemicals or electrolysis methods.
The trick is in knowing what's the best method for the part in question, and not getting caught up in thinking that there's one solution to all stripping problems. One example is never using caustics on aluminum.
The only thing that comes closest to a one-solution method is sandblasting. And even that has it's many limitations too.
Paul
It blistered out under a red oxide auto primer and catalyzed acrylic enamel that I had painted a car with. All the blisters were over rust pits that still had the dry, white residue of the navel jelly, applied as per directions. I never used it again.
Now, 90% of my paint/rust removal is using various forms of fine blasting media such as sand, glass beads, ground glass, black beauty, etc.. Which different media gets used is dictated by the surface and material being cleaned. The other 10% gets cleaned with fast-grade lacquer thinners, which doesn't leave anything of itself behind to contaminate the refinishing process.
I've never had a paint system failure in over 30 years since I switched to using inert blasting media and stopped using chemical strippers.
However, for small, simple shaped parts, if proper cleaning and neutralizing is done, then I can see using certain chemicals or electrolysis methods.
The trick is in knowing what's the best method for the part in question, and not getting caught up in thinking that there's one solution to all stripping problems. One example is never using caustics on aluminum.
The only thing that comes closest to a one-solution method is sandblasting. And even that has it's many limitations too.
Paul
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Do you have to get all the paint off first or will it strip it off?Crow Horse wrote:Here's a pic of some small parts that got an Evaporust soak. I did some mechanical rust removal but there were areas that weren't accessible. I'm pretty pleased with the results. These parts were pretty rusted up.......
- Crow Horse
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I've found that if the paint is compromised (rust underneath it) that the paint will lift off. If you are looking to remove paint that is solid, Evaporust won't be the ticket.....
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Best paint stripper I have found is this.
http://www.por15.com/POR-Strip_p_20.html
It works well, but you have to be patient with it and not start scraping too soon.
Again read and heed the directions.
Dan.
http://www.por15.com/POR-Strip_p_20.html
It works well, but you have to be patient with it and not start scraping too soon.
Again read and heed the directions.
Dan.
Restoring an antique stove is quite a job, in particular when the stove gets about 100 parts .
If rust try to come back right after sandblasting, imagine if the rust is removed with an agressive product...very hard to stop the acidity with an alkaline one.
Paul gave the best recomandation: use the sand blasting method and you will enjoy the nice look of the final job for a long time.
Not the easiest way to go but when you see the very rusty parts come back like they were on day one, it's the best reward you can get
If rust try to come back right after sandblasting, imagine if the rust is removed with an agressive product...very hard to stop the acidity with an alkaline one.
Paul gave the best recomandation: use the sand blasting method and you will enjoy the nice look of the final job for a long time.
Not the easiest way to go but when you see the very rusty parts come back like they were on day one, it's the best reward you can get
- Crow Horse
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I'm going to try the molasses method. I have a set of steel wheels that I've been wanting to sandblast but only got around to doing one wheel. I'll have to pick some up this week...
- SWPaDon
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Never heard of using molasses for rust removal before, but those videos were very convincing. The best part is that it's non-toxic.
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Most of the "safe" liquid rust removal methods will work (eventually) IF you aren't in a hurry. I ran an antique/vintage motorcycle restoration shop for a number of years & waiting for rust to dissolve wasn't an option. My favorite rust removal tool is still my blast cabinet followed by my pressure blaster for large pieces. All blasted pieces get etched (Metal Prep/phosphoric acid), rinsed & dried prior to painting. In over 17 years of sending out show quality paint work I never had a paint failure return or complaint.
- tmbrddl
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I'm finished blasting for the most part and don't know why the muriatic acid bath didn't cross my mind. I'm a bricklayer by trade and have used muriatic for years to clean masonry jobs...and I've soaked my trowels in it.
What effect would muriatic have on nickel? I may have it re-plated after all.
What effect would muriatic have on nickel? I may have it re-plated after all.
- Crow Horse
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Just started rust removal of a badly rusted rim using molasses. I'll report back with pics and progress....
- tmbrddl
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Here is most of the results of my blasting efforts. Overall, I'm quite pleased with the result. Hopefully next weekend I'll be taking the barrel and pipe to tinsmith and having new ones made up. He assures me he can do the job. What to do with the finial?
Attachments
- Crow Horse
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Wow! That is a beauty!
- tmbrddl
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Thank you. I'm confident it will be when I'm done. I've got several hours and 250 pounds of blasting media invested in it so far and I'm quite happy with the result. Now if I can keep it from rusting until I can get it painted.Crow Horse wrote:Wow! That is a beauty!