Rust Removal...

tmbrddl wrote:What should I use to clean the metal after blasting but before painting?

JohnB wrote:All blasted pieces get etched (Metal Prep/phosphoric acid), rinsed & dried prior to painting. In over 17 years of sending out show quality paint work I never had a paint failure return or complaint.

JohnB wrote:

tmbrddl wrote:What should I use to clean the metal after blasting but before painting?

JohnB wrote:All blasted pieces get etched (Metal Prep/phosphoric acid), rinsed & dried prior to painting. In over 17 years of sending out show quality paint work I never had a paint failure return or complaint.

What kind of quantity of Metal Prep/phosphoric acid are we talking here ( and where do I get it), how do you apply it and you rinse it with water?

tmbrddl wrote:What kind of quantity of Metal Prep/phosphoric acid are we talking here ( and where do I get it), how do you apply it and you rinse it with water?

Any automotive paint/autobody supply store will carry Metal Prep or straight phosphoric acid. If it's undiluted mix it one to one with water. Just brush it on the blasted parts keeping them wet with the solution for a minute or two & then rinse well with water. Dry the parts with compressed air or a heat gun. The etching will streak or stain the metal but it's nothing to worry about. If there are any pitted areas that weren't completely cleaned up by the blasting leave the solution on that area until the remaining rust turns black.

Thanks, John and while I have your attention, I'm having a new barrel and pipe made and was wondering how to prep the steel before painting it. Should the metal be etched, primed or anything along those lines before painting it? I can imagine the steel having a film of oil over it from the manufacturer.

How would you proceed?

If these are all stove parts I'm guessing that everything is being painted with heat paint? If so no primer. Any new parts should be cleaned thoroughly with a degreaser. Etching the new parts would be a good idea if they have welded seams. If any parts were brazed be sure to remove all traces of the flux.

Thanks for your help, John. Will do

Here is my new barrel and pipe. I just picked them up this afternoon and I must say I'm thrilled with the guys work. You'll notice he could not match the rings that were on the original barrel but that is of little consequence to me. The gauge of the new barrel is heavier than the original and the gauge of the pipe is much heavier.

You can see the deterioration of the flange on the bottom of the old barrel, gone for the most part and the pipe was paper thin in the areas where the castings mounted. I'm glad I decided to tear it down to see the overall condition. Certainly would not have been a safe stove to burn as it was.

100 years of use was more than reasonable service.

Now comes the laborious task of going to the hardware store and sizing drill bits to fit all of those different holes followed by a bit more elbow grease to remove a spot or two of corrosion I may have missed. If things go well, I may have it back together tomorrow. Will update for those who might be interested.

I got all of the parts painted today and reconstruction begins. Here's the refractory going in. It came in a fifty pound box in four equal chunks. I had never worked with it before but it didn't prove to be too hard to figure out.

I rolled it out like one would bread dough, cut it to the proper length and put it in place. I used a glass tumbler out of the cupboard to roll it in place following the contours of the pot. Took about two hours.

Your making good progress. The tin work turned out great.

The bottom edge details of your Oak's firepot look just like my 118 and #6. And the top flange is just like the #6. But, the 118 has a much narrower channel in the flange for the barrel to sit in. Interesting what details they kept the same and what they changed.

How smooth are you able to get it with using the glass roller ?

I've heard that once the refractory is in place, by wetting the surface and wiping, or rolling it should be made as smooth as possible. Supposed to reduce bridging, helps the ash move down during grate shaking, and takes longer for clinker scale to build up over the years. I don't hear of alot of that being done, but I have seen pix of relined firepots and some look like they have a very rough surface. I should think that getting the lining as smooth as possible has to make a difference.

I know that since I removed most of the 111 years of clinker scale build-up in my range firebox, then smoothed the liners as best I could, it made a big difference in reducing bridging, helped with ash clearing during shaking and holds another shovel worth of coal to put out that much more heat, and/or run that much longer.

Paul

Very nice job on the liner. Hope to see the stove on duty this present Winter

nortcan wrote:Very nice job on the liner. Hope to see the stove on duty this present Winter

Thanks! Here it is almost buttoned up. I probably have a hundred hours in it so I'm finding it hard to understand how anyone can make a living restoring them. A labor of love, but most definitely labor.

Sunny Boy wrote:The tin work turned out great.

How smooth are you able to get it with using the glass roller ?

I've heard that once the refractory is in place, by wetting the surface and wiping, or rolling it should be made as smooth as possible. Supposed to reduce bridging, helps the ash move down during grate shaking, and takes longer for clinker scale to build up over the years.

Paul

He did a great job, Paul. I was cognizant of keeping the sides as smooth as possible. The only rolling pin my wife has is an antique and she wouldn't devote it to the cause so I used an empty Thermalox paint can to get it spread out to rough shape on the floor. The stuff is very stiff and hard to work with.

Once I put it in place in the stove, I went to the tumbler. I did six to eight inch wide vertical strips and cleaned the tumbler after doing a strip. It came out very smooth. I was reluctant to introduce water because that can weaken some masonry products, so not being familiar with this product, I refrained.

I realize the size of the hearth is too small but the floor plan in my old house limited me to size and where I could put the stove. You can see the black char marks on some of the brick. They were salvaged from an old farmhouse (chimney) that burned to the ground. It had a great sentimental value to me because I wandered those farm fields and woods since I was a boy. I did the brickwork.

real nice job all together.

i think the hearth will be just fine. it's not like you're going to be having popping, flying embers getting out when you open the doors.

the stove looks quite at home. i'm sure you're going to love it.

KingCoal wrote:real nice job all together.

i think the hearth will be just fine. it's not like you're going to be having popping, flying embers getting out when you open the doors.

the stove looks quite at home. i'm sure you're going to love it.

Thank you very much. I was a bricklayer for years so I knew it didn't meet code with the smaller stove I had in place, much less this one. It has a pretty big footprint. Can't wait to see the glow through that new mica.