Removing Grates.

KingCoal wrote:

Sunny Boy wrote:Here's one source for your center grate bars.

http://www.woodmanspartsplus.com/SubPage.aspx?spv ... 2&spt_id=3

Paul

well, this is timely. you have no idea how much I apprec. that info, though by fire season next winter i'll show you.

do you know if the GW BB style grate frames are available ?

thanks,
steve

Steve, As far as I know they only have the Modern Oak grate frames.

I suspect that's because the #6 I just bought has a smaller and sturdier grate frame than my 118. I can see that the modern oak frames look like they'd be more likely to warp and/or break.

Paul

A reciprocating saw made short work of the offending grate. Slid right out after I cut through it. Sinful I know cutting a grate like that but it had to go.

Paul, I kind of suspected that, i'll have to see if I can find some recast pieces.

Yes, your Oak 30 grate frame is much more like the Glenwood #6 base heater on the left than the Modern Oak 118 on the right.

Paul

While I'm busy sandblasting, is there any downside to hitting the grates? I bought a compressor and it is cleaning the stove up nicely.

tmbrddl wrote:While I'm busy sandblasting, is there any downside to hitting the grates? I bought a compressor and it is cleaning the stove up nicely.

You mean, other than your electric bill being higher ?

No harm. But, not long after starting a coal fire, they won't look like they were ever cleaned .

Paul

I can see where I might easily have a hundred hours in this thing before I'm done. What a job!

Yup, restoration work is labor intensive, . . when done right. Too often corners get cut and it shows later.

If you can take your time and sweat all the details now, the results will be far better and last much longer.

And, if it makes you feel better, most of my restoration jobs are in the 5000 - 8000 man hour range.

Paul

yea kind of like restoring an antique car, years latter..... Those grates have to be flat all 4 to slide in and out . The oak 30 grate will interchange with the wings best, even though they are marked different, I have a pattern and may have a decent used one. Unlike the glenwood #6 the two in the center are the same.

Wilson,

So if the two center bars of the Oak 30 are the same, does that mean that all four gears mesh with each other ? In other words all four grates shake as one, not as left, or right pairs like the #6 and the Modern Oaks ?

Paul

Sunny Boy wrote:Wilson,

So if the two center bars of the Oak 30 are the same, does that mean that all four gears mesh with each other ? In other words all four grates shake as one, not as left, or right pairs like the #6 and the Modern Oaks ?

Paul

Nope. The two on the right and the two on the left operate independently of each other.

Just wondering how they could work separately in pairs, if the two center grate bars are the same ????

With the #6 & #8 base heaters and the Modern Oaks, the left and right pairs have gear hub positions offset from the other pair, so that the gears will only mesh in pairs, not all four mesh together.

Some fool had re-welded one pair of the original grate bars in my 118. They shortened both bars so that pair's gears then lined up with the gears on the other pair. That made it so that all four gears mesh together. The resulting increased drag of having to shake all four bars together made the shaker handle almost round the corners off the triangular stub ends of the two center bars.

I was able to get a complete set of re-cast bars from Bryant Stove in Maine.

And when Wilson gave me re-cast center bars for the #6 he made sure they were the correct "C" and "D" labeled bars.

Paul

Sunny Boy wrote:I was able to get a complete set of re-cast bars from Bryant Stove in Maine.

Paul

I spoke with them the other day and I think she quoted me $240.00 for a set. Not sure if that included gears and she didn't mention whether they were re-cast or salvaged originals. Nice people and very helpful.

I've got a tractor I'm restoring, a stove restore in the works and I cut the logs for my future home about six weeks ago and I'm getting ready for spring so I can get the foundation in. Bit off more than I can chew.

tmbrddl wrote:

Sunny Boy wrote:I was able to get a complete set of re-cast bars from Bryant Stove in Maine.

Paul

I spoke with them the other day and I think she quoted me $240.00 for a set. Not sure if that included gears and she didn't mention whether they were re-cast or salvaged originals. Nice people and very helpful.

I've got a tractor I'm restoring, a stove restore in the works and I cut the logs for my future home about six weeks ago and I'm getting ready for spring so I can get the foundation in. Bit off more than I can chew.

Yes, very nice people. That's what I paid (before shipping cost) for the four re-cast grate bars for my 118. No gears come with them, just swap the original gears over.

If they have an original set of grates, very likely they won't sell them, but would keep them for casting patterns instead.

Paul

tmbrddl wrote: I've got a tractor I'm restoring, a stove restore in the works and I cut the logs for my future home about six weeks ago and I'm getting ready for spring so I can get the foundation in. Bit off more than I can chew.

Been there, done that. That's a young man's sport. Are you going with full round chink/saddle notch corners?.

Feel free to PM so we don't derail the thread.