Removing grates.

Re: Removing grates.

PostBy: KingCoal On: Tue Apr 01, 2014 10:36 am

are replacement gears available ?
KingCoal
 
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Comforter Stove Works
Baseburners & Antiques: 2014 DTS C17 Base Burner
Coal Size/Type: Nut Anth.
Other Heating: none

Re: Removing grates.

PostBy: wilsons woodstoves On: Tue Apr 01, 2014 11:58 am

There are plenty of gears for wings, glen. oak30, Herald is the only one I have to recast gears for. The gears in the wings and the 30 oak flip around which off sets them from the other pair, Is a good feature, If you need a gear or two I can help you out with originals, pm me. Paul shaking the 4 at once must have been brutal.
wilsons woodstoves
 
Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood, Crawford, Magee, Herald, Others

Re: Removing grates.

PostBy: tmbrddl On: Tue Apr 01, 2014 12:10 pm

Pancho wrote:
tmbrddl wrote:I've got a tractor I'm restoring, a stove restore in the works and I cut the logs for my future home about six weeks ago and I'm getting ready for spring so I can get the foundation in. Bit off more than I can chew.


Been there, done that. That's a young man's sport. Are you going with full round chink/saddle notch corners?.

Feel free to PM so we don't derail the thread.


I'm two siding (top and bottom bearing surfaces) with a mill and round notched corners. Me and a buddy cut sixty spruce logs earlier in the winter and I'll let them lay (season) until the summer of 2015 before I start raising it. I'll get the foundation in this summer.
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tmbrddl
 
Stove/Furnace Make: Glenwood Oak 30

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Re: Removing grates.

PostBy: tmbrddl On: Tue Apr 01, 2014 12:18 pm

I got off the phone with Bryant's just a bit ago. Fortuitous day! They put me in touch with a tin knocker who does their work and I'll have him do the barrel and back pipe. The say he duplicates the work to a tee. I've got stove stripped down to just about the last bolt and I'll be sandblasting again tomorrow. Lot of fun once you get past the fear. Expensive!
tmbrddl
 
Stove/Furnace Make: Glenwood Oak 30

Re: Removing grates.

PostBy: tmbrddl On: Sun Apr 13, 2014 1:47 am

Sunny Boy wrote:Just wondering how they could work separately in pairs, if the two center grate bars are the same ????

With the #6 & #8 base heaters and the Modern Oaks, the left and right pairs have gear hub positions offset from the other pair, so that the gears will only mesh in pairs, not all four mesh together.

Some fool had re-welded one pair of the original grate bars in my 118. They shortened both bars so that pair's gears then lined up with the gears on the other pair. That made it so that all four gears mesh together. The resulting increased drag of having to shake all four bars together made the shaker handle almost round the corners off the triangular stub ends of the two center bars. :mad:

I was able to get a complete set of re-cast bars from Bryant Stove in Maine.

And when Wilson gave me re-cast center bars for the #6 he made sure they were the correct "C" and "D" labeled bars.

Paul


Now that I have the new grate I see what you mean, Paul, they are offset. The gears on the right sit behind the gears to the left. I had no way of knowing that until I got the new grate in place today. A poor casting by the way. You can see in the pic both the offset and weak casting where the shaker handle connects to the grate. It will work but it doesn't have much of a bite.

We made a trip down to Bryant's Stove today and I picked up the grate, some mica for the windows (cheaper than on-line), Thermalox paint and refractory for the pot. I had no idea anyone could hoard so many stove parts. Boggles the mind. Very gracious people and very helpful.

I took my deteriorated rear pipe and barrel to Toothaker Sheet Metal to have him fabricate me new ones and had an extensive conversation with him. A dying trade with no one coming up to fill his shoes once he's gone. I'm very confident he can make the barrel and pipe as close to the originals so as it won't be noticeable. He did tell me he could not exactly duplicate the half-round expansion bulge they built into the original barrel but it would be close. No problem by me. I urged him to use heavier steel than the pipe was originally made from and he was agreeable to it and thought it was a good idea.

I should have the stove put back together in a couple of weeks with the nickel work being the only thing left to do and I may not have that done. Very pricey and much of mine remains anyway. Coal dust will hide the flaws.
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tmbrddl
 
Stove/Furnace Make: Glenwood Oak 30

Re: Removing grates.

PostBy: Sunny Boy On: Sun Apr 13, 2014 2:57 pm

If you can pick up another 3/4 inch triangular socket shaker handle off eBay, Wilson showed me a good trick. He pressed in a sheet metal "sleeve" in the handle socket to reduce it's size down to that of the worn grate bar 's triangular stub. Gave it a nice fit.

The re-cast middle bars he gave me with the #6 had full sized triangular ends, so I didn't need to do that . And the re-cast 118 bars from Bryant are full sized also.

Yes, they are nice folks there at Bryant Stove.

Yup, tin knockers are a dying breed. I've been lucky enough to know two that were exceptionally talented. But, they are long gone now, with no replacements to do the odd-ball sheet metal work required by restoring antiques. The one I used on Long Island could do amazing things with sheet metal. He showed me pictures of an exact miniature he did of a UPS truck as a mail box for a retired UPS driver.

The other was up in Utica. He learned his trade in the Army Air Corp during WWII. He traveled in a C-47 outfitted with a complete sheet metal shop that flew back and forth over the Himalayas from India to China to patch up B29's shot up bombing Japan. Later in the war he was transferred to a B29 base in the Pacific, where he worked on making the modified bomb bay doors for the Enola Gay.

Now, it seems sheet metal shops only want to install prefab duct work, or do custom work truck bodies.

Paul
Sunny Boy
 
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Anthracite Industrial, domestic hot water heater
Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood range 208, # 6 base heater, 2 Modern Oak 118.
Coal Size/Type: Nuts !
Other Heating: Oil &electric plenum furnace

Re: Removing grates.

PostBy: tmbrddl On: Sun Apr 13, 2014 4:05 pm

Sunny Boy wrote:If you can pick up another 3/4 inch triangular socket shaker handle off eBay, Wilson showed me a good trick. He pressed in a sheet metal "sleeve" in the handle socket to reduce it's size down to that of the worn grate bar 's triangular stub. Gave it a nice fit.

Now, it seems sheet metal shops only want to install prefab duct work, or do custom work truck bodies.

Paul


That's a good idea. I was thinking of building up the grate with JB Weld. We'll see how much trouble it gives me.

I was in a panic when I tore the stove down and saw the condition of the pipe and the barrel. Thank goodness for craftsmen! Bryant's uses Toothaker and put me in touch with him. Boy am I glad. I think he could do a good business over the Internet serving people like us. I'll let you know how I make out.
tmbrddl
 
Stove/Furnace Make: Glenwood Oak 30

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