I Didn't Buy the Florence but Next to It in Boxes Was This!
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- Member
- Posts: 32
- Joined: Tue. Apr. 01, 2014 8:59 pm
- Location: Ferndale Michigan and Roscommon Michigan and Tampa Bay Florida
- Baseburners & Antiques: Emerald Peninsular Base Burner
- Other Heating: Jotul wood stove
Good Morning,
I went to pick up the Florence and in the same garage was a large stove like shape in the corner surrounded and stacked with several boxes of cast iron parts and windows and shiny things I inquired about stack of stuff and low and behold after removing boxes of parts and a tarp I uncovered an Emerald Peninsular that was pretty dusty but the body was beautiful, the owner had taken it apart years ago and cleaned it sealed it and put it back together except for the doors, ash door, flue collar? and all the inside parts were still waiting for some long needed attention.
I started mumbling about base burning and fire pot width and shiny, you know, stove talk! He was impressed and asked me what would I do with a monster like that, he wanted it to go to a good home and in the end it came home with me!!!
The mica doors all need mica and striping/cleaning with new bolts. I need a part identified (see pic) that is also broken, I have not a clue where it goes. There is no ashpan. There are no crank handles. The nickel needs some attention. I put it back together, I believe it's all there. It looks like a '57 Buick in my living room!
When I get it all properly put together it will replacing a very wonderful Jotul in my cottage in Huron Forest of Northern Michigan.
I would love some guidence and any other thoughts...I do have a few questions...
1 What is this part that is broken?
2 Can I build my own ashpan?
3 are there cranks available?
4 I have some wood left, will it burn it or should I just use it start the coal with it?
5 17inch fire pot, how much coal is that? seems like a heck of a lot to fill it up!
6 Should I put some refractory cement on the inside of the pot?
7 When should I tell the little women?
8 coal type?
Please let me know if you need more info about "Her"
Thanks so much in advance, this is a great and fun site with tons of info and great people.
PJZ
I went to pick up the Florence and in the same garage was a large stove like shape in the corner surrounded and stacked with several boxes of cast iron parts and windows and shiny things I inquired about stack of stuff and low and behold after removing boxes of parts and a tarp I uncovered an Emerald Peninsular that was pretty dusty but the body was beautiful, the owner had taken it apart years ago and cleaned it sealed it and put it back together except for the doors, ash door, flue collar? and all the inside parts were still waiting for some long needed attention.
I started mumbling about base burning and fire pot width and shiny, you know, stove talk! He was impressed and asked me what would I do with a monster like that, he wanted it to go to a good home and in the end it came home with me!!!
The mica doors all need mica and striping/cleaning with new bolts. I need a part identified (see pic) that is also broken, I have not a clue where it goes. There is no ashpan. There are no crank handles. The nickel needs some attention. I put it back together, I believe it's all there. It looks like a '57 Buick in my living room!
When I get it all properly put together it will replacing a very wonderful Jotul in my cottage in Huron Forest of Northern Michigan.
I would love some guidence and any other thoughts...I do have a few questions...
1 What is this part that is broken?
2 Can I build my own ashpan?
3 are there cranks available?
4 I have some wood left, will it burn it or should I just use it start the coal with it?
5 17inch fire pot, how much coal is that? seems like a heck of a lot to fill it up!
6 Should I put some refractory cement on the inside of the pot?
7 When should I tell the little women?
8 coal type?
Please let me know if you need more info about "Her"
Thanks so much in advance, this is a great and fun site with tons of info and great people.
PJZ
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That is absolutely beautiful! Why can I NEVER walk into a deal like that? I only HEAR about them!!!
Sorry but I can be of no help with your questions. It is a very interesting burn pot/shaker setup. I WANT ONE!!!
Sorry but I can be of no help with your questions. It is a very interesting burn pot/shaker setup. I WANT ONE!!!
- Sunny Boy
- Member
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- Joined: Mon. Nov. 11, 2013 1:40 pm
- Location: Central NY
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Anthracite Industrial, domestic hot water heater
- Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood range 208, # 6 base heater, 2 Modern Oak 118.
- Coal Size/Type: Nuts !
- Other Heating: Oil &electric plenum furnace
Good find ! Congrats.
If it's a suspended pot, I don't think that type needs a liner.
You can make an ash pan with simple tools, but even going low tech, it's a bit involved.
To guess how much coal it holds, we need the depth too. Plus, is that a magazine tube in the upper right corner of picture #2 ?
To give you some idea, I recently filled and measured my #6 base heater. The pot is 13-1/2 inch at the top, 12 inch at the bottom and 10 inches deep to the grates. It holds exactly 50 pounds slightly mounded up in the center. See page 4 here, Stove Road Trip.
Paul
If it's a suspended pot, I don't think that type needs a liner.
You can make an ash pan with simple tools, but even going low tech, it's a bit involved.
To guess how much coal it holds, we need the depth too. Plus, is that a magazine tube in the upper right corner of picture #2 ?
To give you some idea, I recently filled and measured my #6 base heater. The pot is 13-1/2 inch at the top, 12 inch at the bottom and 10 inches deep to the grates. It holds exactly 50 pounds slightly mounded up in the center. See page 4 here, Stove Road Trip.
Paul
- Pancho
- Member
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- Joined: Sat. Feb. 01, 2014 4:00 pm
- Location: Michigan
- Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood No. 8
- Coal Size/Type: Stove
- Other Heating: Jotul Firelight
There is or was one in Pontiac Michigan (search Craiglist). He was asking $1,275.tjnamtiw wrote:That is absolutely beautiful! Why can I NEVER walk into a deal like that? I only HEAR about them!!!
Sorry but I can be of no help with your questions. It is a very interesting burn pot/shaker setup. I WANT ONE!!!
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- Member
- Posts: 4837
- Joined: Wed. Apr. 03, 2013 1:24 pm
- Location: Elkhart county, IN.
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: 1 comforter stove works all iron coal box stove, seventies.
- Baseburners & Antiques: 2014 DTS C17 Base Burner, GW #6, GW 113 formerly Sir Williams, maybe others at Pauliewog’s I’ve forgotten about
- Coal Size/Type: Nut Anth.
- Other Heating: none
i swear, i'm taking all my cloths off to see where the "Kick me" sign is !! what am I doing wrong
hope you find all the parts and a honest, WAY TO GO.
hope you find all the parts and a honest, WAY TO GO.
- michaelanthony
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- Location: millinocket,me.
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- Coal Size/Type: 'nut
- Other Heating: Fujitsu mini split, FHA oil furnace
Great find bro, that broken piece looks like the door that goes over the grate knobs. Did you get the circular primary air spinners that cover the round cut outs. I believe that door was symmetrical.
- Sunny Boy
- Member
- Posts: 25706
- Joined: Mon. Nov. 11, 2013 1:40 pm
- Location: Central NY
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Anthracite Industrial, domestic hot water heater
- Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood range 208, # 6 base heater, 2 Modern Oak 118.
- Coal Size/Type: Nuts !
- Other Heating: Oil &electric plenum furnace
Ok, with some guesstimates of base id and depth, I did some numbers compared to known size and measured amount of coal in mine.
If I'm close, your emerald should hold about 75-80 lbs of nut coal (without a liner).
And, if that is a magazine tube in the second picture, then probably close to 95-100 lbs would be my guesstimate for total.
Soooo, . . you load it up November 1st., shake the grates around Thanks Giving, . . . add some more coal just before Christmas, . .
Paul
If I'm close, your emerald should hold about 75-80 lbs of nut coal (without a liner).
And, if that is a magazine tube in the second picture, then probably close to 95-100 lbs would be my guesstimate for total.
Soooo, . . you load it up November 1st., shake the grates around Thanks Giving, . . . add some more coal just before Christmas, . .
Paul
- dcrane
- Verified Business Rep.
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You lucky bastard The Emerald & Empire Peninsular's are their rarest and best made by Peninsular (these were for the wealthy folk back in the day )
the question were all asking is how much, how much?
questions... where is the lower door (that cast part pictured looks like a baffle/flapper of some sort (the lower door has one centered round draft knob)
that indeed is the magazine with it (in great condition)... Bonus Points! (it would likely hold about 70lbs total and burn for days on end during shoulder months)
The grate crank/handle can be found very easy via ebay, complete grate comes out through ash pit door, without removing a single plate or bolt. The most improved style of a Duplex Grate with Annular Shaking Ring is used. By shaking the Angular Ring all the unburnable particles are forced into the basket formed by the Duplex Grate. A few turns to the right and left of the Duplex drops all the refuse into the ash pan (the best ashpan maker in the country happens to be on the forum here, im not sure if he is still making them but his name is Fred).
Im sure hoping you have that lower door someplace (thats going to be the fly in the ointment if not because this is kind of a rare stove and nobody well known here on this forum has one to borrow for a recast). Here is what it looks like.... most would recommend having that grate and certainly the firepot recast immediately before use.
the question were all asking is how much, how much?
questions... where is the lower door (that cast part pictured looks like a baffle/flapper of some sort (the lower door has one centered round draft knob)
that indeed is the magazine with it (in great condition)... Bonus Points! (it would likely hold about 70lbs total and burn for days on end during shoulder months)
The grate crank/handle can be found very easy via ebay, complete grate comes out through ash pit door, without removing a single plate or bolt. The most improved style of a Duplex Grate with Annular Shaking Ring is used. By shaking the Angular Ring all the unburnable particles are forced into the basket formed by the Duplex Grate. A few turns to the right and left of the Duplex drops all the refuse into the ash pan (the best ashpan maker in the country happens to be on the forum here, im not sure if he is still making them but his name is Fred).
Im sure hoping you have that lower door someplace (thats going to be the fly in the ointment if not because this is kind of a rare stove and nobody well known here on this forum has one to borrow for a recast). Here is what it looks like.... most would recommend having that grate and certainly the firepot recast immediately before use.
Last edited by dcrane on Mon. Apr. 07, 2014 9:34 pm, edited 6 times in total.
-
- Member
- Posts: 4837
- Joined: Wed. Apr. 03, 2013 1:24 pm
- Location: Elkhart county, IN.
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: 1 comforter stove works all iron coal box stove, seventies.
- Baseburners & Antiques: 2014 DTS C17 Base Burner, GW #6, GW 113 formerly Sir Williams, maybe others at Pauliewog’s I’ve forgotten about
- Coal Size/Type: Nut Anth.
- Other Heating: none
for the love of mike, just PM him the number, I couldn't stand knowing.
-
- Member
- Posts: 32
- Joined: Tue. Apr. 01, 2014 8:59 pm
- Location: Ferndale Michigan and Roscommon Michigan and Tampa Bay Florida
- Baseburners & Antiques: Emerald Peninsular Base Burner
- Other Heating: Jotul wood stove
I'm a little embarassed. Thank you for all the kudos. I feel very blessed to find it and I will make it better for the next caretaker.
KingCoal...DCrane...don't throw up, it was way way more than $200 the owner knew what it was. The shape that it's in and with all the parts except the ash pan and the crank I couldn't let lt go. You can really tell that It was never in the elements or a barn or anyplace wet. I do have the bottom ash pan door and the cup spinner draft piece and the little door at the very bottom.
I'm just missing the crank, ash pan and that little flapper part is broken.
The stove is in nothern Michigan at my cottage so I don't have access to it during the week. I did bring all the mica doors with me, they need mica and they need taken apart cleaned painted with new bolts.
I did take more pics if anyone needs to see more.
SunnyBoy...thats a lot of coal!! This stove will be used to heat my cottage up north in the Huron National Forest( M-18 and M-72 area) and it gets cold up there!
Q...Will I be able to only fill the pot half way for a weekend burn? ...Or fill it all the way and shut it down before I go home? I don't want to leave it burn when nobody is there.
Q...How do I clean up that chrome, it looks like someone polished the nickel right off in some places.
Q...Who makes ash pans? ..I can make one, what guage steel do I use? ...Are they made of steel?
Q...What kind of bolts and nuts, brass, gold, silver, galv, painted by the kids? I see different anwsers in the posts. I like the look of the square nuts.
Q...I need mica, clear or?
Q...cleaning these doors, acid-sand blast-media blast-wire brush? these have a light coat of rust that you can rub off with a wet finger.
Q ...Are the doors Brass or chrome or painted/polished? I can't tell.
Recasting the grate and pot is a great idea.
I really think it's a beautiful piece of history and early engineering and I feel very lucky and I don't feel like that very often.
Thanks for the help,
Patrick
KingCoal...DCrane...don't throw up, it was way way more than $200 the owner knew what it was. The shape that it's in and with all the parts except the ash pan and the crank I couldn't let lt go. You can really tell that It was never in the elements or a barn or anyplace wet. I do have the bottom ash pan door and the cup spinner draft piece and the little door at the very bottom.
I'm just missing the crank, ash pan and that little flapper part is broken.
The stove is in nothern Michigan at my cottage so I don't have access to it during the week. I did bring all the mica doors with me, they need mica and they need taken apart cleaned painted with new bolts.
I did take more pics if anyone needs to see more.
SunnyBoy...thats a lot of coal!! This stove will be used to heat my cottage up north in the Huron National Forest( M-18 and M-72 area) and it gets cold up there!
Q...Will I be able to only fill the pot half way for a weekend burn? ...Or fill it all the way and shut it down before I go home? I don't want to leave it burn when nobody is there.
Q...How do I clean up that chrome, it looks like someone polished the nickel right off in some places.
Q...Who makes ash pans? ..I can make one, what guage steel do I use? ...Are they made of steel?
Q...What kind of bolts and nuts, brass, gold, silver, galv, painted by the kids? I see different anwsers in the posts. I like the look of the square nuts.
Q...I need mica, clear or?
Q...cleaning these doors, acid-sand blast-media blast-wire brush? these have a light coat of rust that you can rub off with a wet finger.
Q ...Are the doors Brass or chrome or painted/polished? I can't tell.
Recasting the grate and pot is a great idea.
I really think it's a beautiful piece of history and early engineering and I feel very lucky and I don't feel like that very often.
Thanks for the help,
Patrick
- Sunny Boy
- Member
- Posts: 25706
- Joined: Mon. Nov. 11, 2013 1:40 pm
- Location: Central NY
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Anthracite Industrial, domestic hot water heater
- Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood range 208, # 6 base heater, 2 Modern Oak 118.
- Coal Size/Type: Nuts !
- Other Heating: Oil &electric plenum furnace
Chrome ? Most were nickel placed and depending on the plating process some nickel looks as bright as chrome, but it has a warm tone, not the blue tone of chrome. Chrome plating didn't come into common use until after the late 1920's.
You can't bring back a worn off finish so just use wax, oil, or stove polish to prevent rust until the day that area can be re-plated.
I have a sheet metal break, but it broke.
I made an ash pan for my range using thin cardboard to make a pattern to check fit. Then laid out the pattern and traced it onto 24 ga galvanized sheet metal and cut it out using tin snips. Then I formed it using wood working clamps, a couple of narrow pine boards, and a flat bench top. The top edges I flanged by "slap hammering" over a piece of 1 inch steel bar using a piece of 1 x2 pine, then finished tightening up the flanges with body hammer and dolly.
As soon as my range is shut down for the year, I'll finish the pan by spot weld the corner overlapping seams. And then install a bail handle like the original. You can rivet the corner overlaps as was done on some original ash pans, or take it to a welder who has a spot welder. The bail handle can just be 3/16 rod from the hardware store bent and hooked into holes in the sides at the flanged edges.
Square nuts were often used because lock washers lose they spring temper with heat. The square nuts don't have a round "land" machined on their undersides like hex nuts, so the corners tend to drag and help keep the nut from loosening.
You can go the sand blast and high temp stove paint route, which can get costly if you have to pay to have it done, . . or, you can go low tech. I chose the low tech route even though I have sand blasting and paint booths as part of my business. I like the look of the hand-rubbed polish. It high lights and brings out more of the details. And it's easily touched up.
If it's just loose surface rust, try just using a wire wheel, chucked up in a drill motor. Goes very quickly and gets into the details while helping to burnish the cast iron giving a smoother surface that blasting alone will not give - in fact just the opposite it will texture the surface so that even when painted, making it look flatter.
Wire-wheeling the light coat of paint and traces of rust off is what I'm doing in the pictures below, then coating with stove polish and rubbing to bring up the shine.
The pictures are of a loading door that took about 2-3 minutes to wire-wheel clean using a new (sharp) wire wheel in a cordless drill. Then about 5 minutes to coat and polish after it dried.
If you do decide to use wire wheels, also using a reversible drill will help extend the cutting life of the wires. As the wire tips become worn from going in one direction ,and the cutting action slows down, reverse the drill direction and it will cut faster again.
Paul
You can't bring back a worn off finish so just use wax, oil, or stove polish to prevent rust until the day that area can be re-plated.
I have a sheet metal break, but it broke.
I made an ash pan for my range using thin cardboard to make a pattern to check fit. Then laid out the pattern and traced it onto 24 ga galvanized sheet metal and cut it out using tin snips. Then I formed it using wood working clamps, a couple of narrow pine boards, and a flat bench top. The top edges I flanged by "slap hammering" over a piece of 1 inch steel bar using a piece of 1 x2 pine, then finished tightening up the flanges with body hammer and dolly.
As soon as my range is shut down for the year, I'll finish the pan by spot weld the corner overlapping seams. And then install a bail handle like the original. You can rivet the corner overlaps as was done on some original ash pans, or take it to a welder who has a spot welder. The bail handle can just be 3/16 rod from the hardware store bent and hooked into holes in the sides at the flanged edges.
Square nuts were often used because lock washers lose they spring temper with heat. The square nuts don't have a round "land" machined on their undersides like hex nuts, so the corners tend to drag and help keep the nut from loosening.
You can go the sand blast and high temp stove paint route, which can get costly if you have to pay to have it done, . . or, you can go low tech. I chose the low tech route even though I have sand blasting and paint booths as part of my business. I like the look of the hand-rubbed polish. It high lights and brings out more of the details. And it's easily touched up.
If it's just loose surface rust, try just using a wire wheel, chucked up in a drill motor. Goes very quickly and gets into the details while helping to burnish the cast iron giving a smoother surface that blasting alone will not give - in fact just the opposite it will texture the surface so that even when painted, making it look flatter.
Wire-wheeling the light coat of paint and traces of rust off is what I'm doing in the pictures below, then coating with stove polish and rubbing to bring up the shine.
The pictures are of a loading door that took about 2-3 minutes to wire-wheel clean using a new (sharp) wire wheel in a cordless drill. Then about 5 minutes to coat and polish after it dried.
If you do decide to use wire wheels, also using a reversible drill will help extend the cutting life of the wires. As the wire tips become worn from going in one direction ,and the cutting action slows down, reverse the drill direction and it will cut faster again.
Paul
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- Pancho
- Member
- Posts: 906
- Joined: Sat. Feb. 01, 2014 4:00 pm
- Location: Michigan
- Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood No. 8
- Coal Size/Type: Stove
- Other Heating: Jotul Firelight
Note....it's best to not use a steel wire wheel on materials that rust. Materials from the steel wire wheel can embed in the material you are cleaning and will rust down the road (you can even make a stainless material surface rust from a steel wire wheel).
Brass is best (but not the cheapest).
Brass is best (but not the cheapest).