Burning Bitumious Lump Coal in a 1557M Hotblast
- carlherrnstein
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You are correct you need to have the grate clear of ashes. The grate will not warp unless you let the ashes build up in the ash pan high enough to restrict the airflow to the grate. The incoming room air is comparatively cold and keeps the grate from getting to hot.
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How do u prevent burning up or warping your shaker grate?
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I've read wher people leave the ashpan out and cut the back out of it so u can slide it In and scoop the ashes out. This left more air travel from underneath. Good idea??
- carlherrnstein
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A lot of the old stoves had three sided ash pans. I think that just weakens the pan at that end but, it makes it easier to clean out the back of the ash pit.
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Will leaving the ash pan out give me more air flow that I need? Down sides to that
- Lightning
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I cut the back of my ash pan off so that dumping it makes less of a dust plume. It also makes more room for poking in under the grates. I only have the ash pan installed when I shake the grates and remove ash. This is so that heat radiating down thru the grates can heat the floor of the fire box, which becomes added heat transfer area.Jared43758 wrote:I've read wher people leave the ashpan out and cut the back out of it so u can slide it In and scoop the ashes out. This left more air travel from underneath. Good idea??
As long as you don't let ash pile up under the grates you shouldn't have a problem with the grates warping. I've never warped a grate in three years. BUT I have broken the nub that the handle slides on to by shaking it too hard.
- Lightning
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No this isn't going to solve your draft problem...Jared43758 wrote:Will leaving the ash pan out give me more air flow that I need? Down sides to that
I recommend a manometer to help you diagnose your issues..
Last edited by Lightning on Mon. Apr. 21, 2014 6:39 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Maybe I don't have a draft problem. I could want to turn my draft down and use a blower so I can have thermostat control. So u leave u ashpan out so u can get more air to the grate cause ur not getting enuff draft to fire coal. When I took the back plug outta the back of my stove I could feel the air sucking in. I would say my draft is fine
- Lightning
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No. this,Jared43758 wrote:So u leave u ashpan out so u can get more air to the grate cause ur not getting enuff draft to fire coal.
Lightning wrote:I only have the ash pan installed when I shake the grates and remove ash. This is so that heat radiating down thru the grates can heat the floor of the fire box, which becomes added heat transfer area.
This doesn't tell you anything about draft strength..Jared43758 wrote:When I took the back plug outta the back of my stove I could feel the air sucking in. I would say my draft is fine
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Ok what does besides a meter. Which people didn't use years ago and burnt coal fine
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I've burnt wood fine for three years wouldn't that mean I have enuff draft
- Lightning
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Yes you're right.. you may not have a draft problem. You may have an ash problem. If you don't want to get a manometer than don't. You could just continue to guess at what the problem is...
I don't know of another way to measure draft pressure...
Wood creates plenty of its own draft since a higher percentage of heat is lost out the chimney. Coal is much more efficient.
I don't know of another way to measure draft pressure...
Wood creates plenty of its own draft since a higher percentage of heat is lost out the chimney. Coal is much more efficient.
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Do u lay firebrick up on baffle to get more heat? Why does my stove come with a smoke sheild ?
- Lightning
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No. The only thing firebrick would do on the baffles is retain heat and then radiate it, if the fire went out. I don't see any benefit putting firebricks up there..Jared43758 wrote:Do u lay firebrick up on baffle to get more heat?
Smoke shield? You mean the steel curtain that covers half the load door entry? It helps keep smoke from escaping out into the room.Jared43758 wrote:Why does my stove come with a smoke sheild ?