Best Frame Paint??

2001Sierra · Post by **2001Sierra** » Thu. May. 15, 2014 10:36 pm

LP-3 or Fluid Film is better than motor oil but carries a significant price difference. Salt spray test is the key to durability.

SMITTY · Post by **SMITTY** » Thu. May. 15, 2014 10:40 pm

You got to keep at it with motor oil. It washes off after a few good storms. It'll stick to areas that aren't in the line of fire though. Certain parts of the Blazer were still oily under there, even after this hellacious winter.

Rick 386 · Post by **Rick 386** » Fri. May. 16, 2014 10:56 am

NWBuilder wrote:Hey guys,
I am looking for some input on Frame paint. I have an older 1990 Jeep wrangler that I would like to hold onto for many more years. I want to keep the frame in decent shape, any thoughts on frame paint that lasts more then one year. I am getting tired of cleaning and scrapping every year to add another coat. So anyone with experience in this area, let's hear from you. Thanks in advance, Ken

Ken,

1 thing you should really take a look at is the rear section of the frame where the trailing arms attach. I have repaired 2 Wranglers in the past 2 years where the frame completely rots away at the lower end. It seems like Jeep in their infinite wisdom, cut a hole in the inside of the frame to attach the stabilizer link to the frame. However they never put a drain hole in the bottom of the frame rail. Water, salt, and everything else goes in this upper hole with nowhere to escape. So it just lays in the frame rail rotting away. This turns into quite an expensive repair. Essentially the trailing arms and associated parts are disconnected, the bad section cut out, and a repair panel is welded back in before reinstalling the trailing arms, etc.

However I have found a company that makes some fine looking and functional repair parts for Jeeps and other vehicles. Go to http://www.autorust.com and search their online store. Quite a few repair parts for Jeep. I like them. They are made from 1/4" thick steel. Just don't tell anyone else...... lol

Rick

NWBuilder · Post by **NWBuilder** » Fri. May. 16, 2014 11:34 am

2001Sierra wrote:Best prep is sand blasting, otherwise degrease and prewash with metal-ready another POR product. If you needle scale heavy rust, and blow it off with air that works well as well.

ok what is needle scaling?

NWBuilder · Post by **NWBuilder** » Fri. May. 16, 2014 11:43 am

Rick 386 wrote:
NWBuilder wrote:Hey guys,
I am looking for some input on Frame paint. I have an older 1990 Jeep wrangler that I would like to hold onto for many more years. I want to keep the frame in decent shape, any thoughts on frame paint that lasts more then one year. I am getting tired of cleaning and scrapping every year to add another coat. So anyone with experience in this area, let's hear from you. Thanks in advance, Ken
Ken,

1 thing you should really take a look at is the rear section of the frame where the trailing arms attach. I have repaired 2 Wranglers in the past 2 years where the frame completely rots away at the lower end. It seems like Jeep in their infinite wisdom, cut a hole in the inside of the frame to attach the stabilizer link to the frame. However they never put a drain hole in the bottom of the frame rail. Water, salt, and everything else goes in this upper hole with nowhere to escape. So it just lays in the frame rail rotting away. This turns into quite an expensive repair. Essentially the trailing arms and associated parts are disconnected, the bad section cut out, and a repair panel is welded back in before reinstalling the trailing arms, etc.

However I have found a company that makes some fine looking and functional repair parts for Jeeps and other vehicles. Go to http://www.autorust.com and search their online store. Quite a few repair parts for Jeep. I like them. They are made from 1/4" thick steel. Just don't tell anyone else...... lol

Rick

Thanks Rick and everyone else for your input. I knew I could count on you guys to come through for me. It sounds like I have a fair amount of work in front of me and decisions to make. Sounds like the best thing would be to pull the body off and really have at it. I may not go that far since to me that sounds about as easy to complete as brain surgery on myself. It's not made of wood so that makes it a huge challenge for me. Time to take a serious look however. Thanks again, you guys are the best!! Ken

gaw · Post by **gaw** » Fri. May. 16, 2014 2:11 pm

NWBuilder wrote:
2001Sierra wrote:Best prep is sand blasting, otherwise degrease and prewash with metal-ready another POR product. If you needle scale heavy rust, and blow it off with air that works well as well.
ok what is needle scaling?

A needle scaler is a funny looking tool that opens a can of whoop ass on rust or paint or slag etc. Sorta-kinda like an air hammer with a bunch of hard wires (needles) Most need a decent compressor to keep them going if it is a big project. http://www.eastwood.com/ingersoll-rand-ir-125-air ... OgodtRsAzg
There are cheaper ones but here is a brand name one with a bigger price tag. Some appear to be just a modified air chisel.

Post by **coaledsweat** » Fri. May. 16, 2014 3:38 pm

Used motor oil has acids in it, new oil does not.

SMITTY · Post by **SMITTY** » Fri. May. 16, 2014 4:28 pm

Never seen used motor oil cause rust. My family has been doing it since the dawn of the Model T.

rberq · Post by **rberq** » Fri. May. 16, 2014 6:00 pm

coaledsweat wrote:Used motor oil has acids in it, new oil does not.

That's what I was told: new oil is a rust inhibitor, old oil can be a rust inducer.
For the cost of a quart or two, why take the chance?

Lu47Dan · Post by **Lu47Dan** » Sat. May. 17, 2014 12:56 pm

For POR-15 to adhere correctly it is a four step process:
Step One.
Prep the surface, either by sandblasting, soda blasting, wire wheeling and or sanding or grinding the surface free of loose rust.

Step Two
Apply Marine Clean mixed to the proper ratio with hot water. Allow the cleaner to remove the oil and grease, then rinse the cleaner off the surface with plain clean water.
http://www.por15.com/POR-15-Cleaner-Degreaser_p_14.html

Step Three
Apply Metal Ready to the cleaned surface, keep a wet film on the surface for the directed length of time in the instruction sheet. Then rinse off with plain clean water.
http://www.por15.com/POR-15-Metal-Prep_p_15.html

Step Four
Allow the surface to air dry, do not blow excess water off with an air hose, most compressed air contains oil droplets. Apply the Por-15 with a brush. Wear Nitrile gloves while working with the POR-15 to protect you from having to wear off any you get on your hands.
http://www.por15.com/POR-15-Rust-Preventive-Coating_p_8.html

The directions for use of all the linked product are in link below the product window. Read and heed them as they will make using these products a lot more successful.

I have used POR-15 many time on many projects and have been happy with it performance.
Do not buy a gallon of it unless you will need a gallon for the project you are working on. Buy a it in pint or quart lots instead. If I will need two quarts to coat a project I order one quart and two pints. Than I use up the quart and start on the pints, If I have some leftover I store it in the refrigerator, until I use it up.
Do not dip your brush directly into the can of POR, pour the POR into a cleaned oleo tub and use it from there. Dipping the brush into the can introduces contaminates into the can and the product can set up than.
I introduce CO2 gas from my MIG welding setup into the can before sealing it to drive out any moisture and air that may get trapped in the can when I seal the lid down again.
Before sealing the lid install a piece of glad wrap over the cans opening and than install the lid. Clean the groove with Q-tips before to help prevent the lid from being sealed to the can.
It does not take much of the POR to permanently sealing the lid to the can. Do not ask me how I know this.

POR-15 is a moisture catalyzed poly-urethane coating so it does take some time to set up.
Good luck .
Dan.

Lu47Dan · Post by **Lu47Dan** » Sat. May. 17, 2014 1:01 pm

One other thing I do is I use "chip" brushes and throw them away
http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result ... ip+brushes
Dan

JohnB · Post by **JohnB** » Sat. Jul. 05, 2014 9:47 pm

This is my favorite coating for frames, gas tanks & rust repairs: http://www.masterseriescoatings.com/index/products/primer/ Kill the rust with: http://www.masterseriescoatings.com/index/product ... etal-prep/ then apply the primer. It's UV tolerant unlike POR15 so you don't need to topcoat it if you are ok with the silver color. Hardens up like rock & works great for coating/sealing the inside of gas tanks also.

CapeCoaler · Post by **CapeCoaler** » Sat. Jul. 05, 2014 10:00 pm

Out in western MA they had a place or two...
That sprayed used oil on the frames...
drive up on a half pit half raised area...
And they sprayed ya down...
Mikeys old '69 caddy w/472 swore by it...

Tamecrow · Post by **Tamecrow** » Mon. Jul. 07, 2014 10:42 pm

SMITTY wrote:You got to keep at it with motor oil. It washes off after a few good storms. It'll stick to areas that aren't in the line of fire though. Certain parts of the Blazer were still oily under there, even after this hellacious winter.

Melt some toilet wax seals in the oil before applying. Makes it much more resistant to washing off.