Best Frame Paint??
- NWBuilder
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Hey guys,
I am looking for some input on Frame paint. I have an older 1990 Jeep wrangler that I would like to hold onto for many more years. I want to keep the frame in decent shape, any thoughts on frame paint that lasts more then one year. I am getting tired of cleaning and scrapping every year to add another coat. So anyone with experience in this area, let's hear from you. Thanks in advance, Ken
I am looking for some input on Frame paint. I have an older 1990 Jeep wrangler that I would like to hold onto for many more years. I want to keep the frame in decent shape, any thoughts on frame paint that lasts more then one year. I am getting tired of cleaning and scrapping every year to add another coat. So anyone with experience in this area, let's hear from you. Thanks in advance, Ken
- gaw
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I have not used it yet, but I bought Rust Bullet and plan to be putting it on a frame this summer. I'll let you know how well it works. It sounds a lot like POR-15 but easier to use, I have no experience with either product but there is a Rust Bullet frame kit sitting in my garage right now waiting for me to use. Like I said I will give my opinion on it after I use it and see how well it holds up.
http://www.rustbullet.com/
http://www.rustbullet.com/
- 2001Sierra
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POR or Chassis saver bonding to the metal is the key, clean metal it peels. Bonded correctly hit it with a hammer like nothing ever happened. I have used POR 15 many times, the bond is the key, once that is right life is good. UV is another issue if looks bother you. I recently did the inside of my dump trailer with POR 15, but was advised to top coat it with Rust-olium when your finger drags on the finish, the key to the bond once again. Sat all winter outside still looks good until many loads of scrap abuse the finish, you just can't give up. The underside of the trailer got Fluid-Film and that is going well as it sits so much it doesn't wear away.
- NWBuilder
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What prep do you do to get the best bond?2001Sierra wrote:POR or Chassis saver bonding to the metal is the key, clean metal it peels. Bonded correctly hit it with a hammer like nothing ever happened. I have used POR 15 many times, the bond is the key, once that is right life is good. UV is another issue if looks bother you. I recently did the inside of my dump trailer with POR 15, but was advised to top coat it with Rust-olium when your finger drags on the finish, the key to the bond once again. Sat all winter outside still looks good until many loads of scrap abuse the finish, you just can't give up. The underside of the trailer got Fluid-Film and that is going well as it sits so much it doesn't wear away.
- coaledsweat
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If you paint that POR15 without gloves, plan on wearing it for some time.
- 2001Sierra
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Best prep is sand blasting, otherwise degrease and prewash with metal-ready another POR product. If you needle scale heavy rust, and blow it off with air that works well as well.
- DePippo79
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Haven't used Por 15 yet, but as the others said it sounds like a good product. I've had good like with Rustoleum in the regular paint can. Thinned it with lacquer thinner and shot it through a spray gun. Used it on a 78 Camaro subframe. After painting it sat outside for sometime in the dirt. When I did drag it back inside still looked like the day I painted it. Bare metal primed and sealed is the best base for a finish coat. Although the frame in question I just sanded and painted. Looks fine. Good luck. Matt
- Sunny Boy
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Most folks get it backwards. It's not about the quality of the paint used !!! It's ALL about the prep, and the primer !
You can put cheap paint over good prep and good primer and it will last for many years. Try the reverse and you'll have pealing/blistering paint in about a year, . . or less.
Paints are only as good as the surface they are put on. If your scraping (ok for wood, but not ok for rusty metal) don't expect paint to stick. Scraping can't get down into rust pits so your leaving a "seed bed" of rust behind that will trap just enough moisture to feed on and then pin head sized blister the surface allowing more moisture to get in later allowing the rust blisters to grow even more. There is no "quick and easy" method that will last longer than what you've got now.
Before you start, you have to wash the area your working on with soap and water to get ride of road grime, and then wash with a pre-cleaner solvent to remove oils, or your just moving the oil around to lift the primer paint. You may not think there's oil on there if your motor is clean, but tell that to the cars that were leaking and misting oil in front of you while driving.
As Sierra said, sand blasting is the best way, but not always an option. You could cause more damage by sand getting into places it shouldn't, and it will no mater how careful you are. I wouldn't think of sand blasting it unless it was just a bare chassis, or you'll have sand in bearings, bushings and drive train. I know, I do commercial sand blasting for a living.
In your case you may want to invest in a small needle scaler and compressor to run it. The scaler will reach down into the rust pits that a scraper just rides over.
Two part automotive epoxy primers work the best.
1. They have better adhesion than other metal primers.
2. They are a better vapor barrier.
3. The automotive ones absorb residual moisture on the metal surface as part of their curing process, so you don't have to worry if the surface is bone dry.
4. They stay more flexible over time.
5. They have special anti-corrosion additives to help deal with the micro rust you may miss.
I use both the PPG DP-40 and NAPA (Martin Senour)epoxy primers and both have held up well long term.
Paul
You can put cheap paint over good prep and good primer and it will last for many years. Try the reverse and you'll have pealing/blistering paint in about a year, . . or less.
Paints are only as good as the surface they are put on. If your scraping (ok for wood, but not ok for rusty metal) don't expect paint to stick. Scraping can't get down into rust pits so your leaving a "seed bed" of rust behind that will trap just enough moisture to feed on and then pin head sized blister the surface allowing more moisture to get in later allowing the rust blisters to grow even more. There is no "quick and easy" method that will last longer than what you've got now.
Before you start, you have to wash the area your working on with soap and water to get ride of road grime, and then wash with a pre-cleaner solvent to remove oils, or your just moving the oil around to lift the primer paint. You may not think there's oil on there if your motor is clean, but tell that to the cars that were leaking and misting oil in front of you while driving.
As Sierra said, sand blasting is the best way, but not always an option. You could cause more damage by sand getting into places it shouldn't, and it will no mater how careful you are. I wouldn't think of sand blasting it unless it was just a bare chassis, or you'll have sand in bearings, bushings and drive train. I know, I do commercial sand blasting for a living.
In your case you may want to invest in a small needle scaler and compressor to run it. The scaler will reach down into the rust pits that a scraper just rides over.
Two part automotive epoxy primers work the best.
1. They have better adhesion than other metal primers.
2. They are a better vapor barrier.
3. The automotive ones absorb residual moisture on the metal surface as part of their curing process, so you don't have to worry if the surface is bone dry.
4. They stay more flexible over time.
5. They have special anti-corrosion additives to help deal with the micro rust you may miss.
I use both the PPG DP-40 and NAPA (Martin Senour)epoxy primers and both have held up well long term.
Paul
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I have been using (new) motor oil inside the bottoms of my doors for years. I squirt it in through the drain holes, then plug them for a couple hours to keep it from running out before it can spread around. Old newspapers spread on the floor catch the drips, especially after the plugs are removed. I cut up those cheap foam paint brushes to make soft plugs. Capillary action causes the oil to creep up the outside door surfaces and then road dust sticks to it, but it washes off easily. I just do it once every year or two, and the doors are rust free after 16 years. I have also used oil on a rusting door pillar on a previous car. Don't know what caused it to start rusting, and of course the oil didn't remove any rust, but it kept it from advancing for years.SMITTY wrote:Used motor oil.
Of course these are relatively protected areas, not like an exposed frame where the oil might be washed off.
A body shop guy told me new oil was better than used, because it inhibited rust better. Don't know if he's right or not.