Agenda today, Samsung refrigerator, a few months ago the digital readout was screwy and then the bottom freezer section started melting. Controlled by a computer board of course with overkill software and about 8 sensors. It counts the number of times you open the door within a certain time frame, ambient temp sensors, inside sensors, variable speed fans, blah blah. Took it apart and defrosted the evaporator coils with a heat gun and all was well. Ordered 4 or 5 sensors, a thermal fuse for the defrost heater to have on hand. Now this week the temp readout is saying the freezer is 12,20,0,14,-6,21, whatever if felt like saying. Temperature was actually fine in the freezer. Took it apart today and was frozen up again though not nearly as bad. Found the service manual and test mode and all this other factory stuff after searching the internet for a few hours last night. Sensors all tested good within resistance range, thermal fuse was open but defrost heater and drain heater were good. Replaced thermal fuse and she's up and running again.
They say the Samsung and LG make good refrigerators but working on them is another story and many places won't touch them, the tech schooling and design are way different than the more famous names.
Second agenda, dryer (Kenmore) started beeping last night. In the basement we get water when it rains bad, yesterday we got 2.6 inches. Wife said it just started beeping when it wasn't even in use. It will run 30 seconds get hot then shut down. Major complaint on the internet for many styles of this model, and a lot of error codes to go along with the beeping. Led's were flashing so i counted the flashes and came up with error E68, which means "button stuck". You can get into diagnostic modes by holding 2 buttons,wait for 6 seconds, turning the selector switch, pushing 2 other buttons, wait for 4 seconds,turn the selector switch to another position and there you go. Guess how many tries it took before i actually got that far. It now gives me "error 68". No *censored*.
Clear codes, try to start and it runs,.............about 30 seconds and shuts off, lights flashing again.
Take the top off, front panel and expose the "control board", about $180 online. Take the circuit board out to the garage, switches aren't stuck and all test good with my meter. I work on electronics all day so this tiny surface mount stuff doesn't bother me. Back to the internet again, many many complaints(and sales) on "electronic control boards" from Whirlpool, Frigidaire, Kenmore, Maytag, whoever sold out their company name years ago.
Find a hidden website with "ERROR 68", where this electronics engineer had the same problem. Seems his would error out only when it was high humidity, so me having a inch on water in the basement of this 1925 house with the sump pump working all day, figured it was high humidity here too. The control board is coated with a sealer, conformal coating they call it in the military circuit boards.
Now many years ago there was a guy they called "Madman Muntz", he sold tv's of his design, tv works fine and you keep taking parts out of the circuit boards to save money until it stopped working. Seems many companies these days do the same thing. The electronics engineer found out some stuff was taken out on the logic chips that set either a high or low signal, these are pullup or pulldown resistors, (chip was darlington high current array uls2004) yeah it works without them but add in the high humidity and some tolerance drift after x amount of years and it stops working. So, the mod was to add a 10k resistor between the switch and ground and guess what,............. it works.
Next the well pump, (jet pump), kicks on at 30psi, kicks off at 34psi.........................................fixed. Go out for dinner with grand-kids, day over.