timer relay help

lincolnmania · By: **lincolnmania** On: Mon Feb 04, 2008 3:49 am

i have a timer and a wall thermostat and a 24v transformer so i can put my efm on a thermostat......i need a the relay....i have no clue as what to get other than it needs to be 24v.......i would like to able to keep the feed rate up and control the stoker with the thermostat and the outage timer ..........people turn the efm up and forget to turn it back down when there is no one on the shop, besides i have it set at two teeth right now (yea i know not sposed to be good) but it's 60 in the shop now, and i dont need it that warm

stoker-man · By: **stoker-man** On: Mon Feb 04, 2008 6:55 am

You might be able to use two teeth as long as you constantly monitor the fire. Your timer may be able to control a 110V motor without an extra relay. Just make sure the timer is wired AFTER the high limit switch as shown in the diagram.

http://www.efmheating.com/manuals/Stoke ... urnace.pdf

lincolnmania · By: **lincolnmania** On: Mon Feb 04, 2008 7:51 am

i'm keeping an eye on it......no hot pipe.......heres some pics of what i have gathered, also is that the infamous dark spot?

stoker-man · By: **stoker-man** On: Mon Feb 04, 2008 7:43 pm

I put your photo in front of the Board of Photography Review for an in-depth analysis. Big Jim noticed that the black spot is off centered, which suggests that the coal worm has sharp edges. (News to me) He also thinks that you are running more than 2 teeth because of all the coal in the pot, or maybe not enough air. He said there could be other reasons for the appearance of the fire, such as air leaks or improper draft. Other than that, I think the unit looks pretty nice for something that you found at the scrapyard. (You did, didn't you?)

lincolnmania · By: **lincolnmania** On: Mon Feb 04, 2008 8:01 pm

the stoker worm was sharp and had some pits when i put the stove together also my air leak may be the ash door.....bottom is rotted.......i didnt get it from a scrap yard but that is where it was headed......guy just wanted it removed, and the shed too(one of those 10x10 metal ones.........i get smoke up thru the barrel if the coal level gets to low......could that be caused by the ash door gasket missing?.....i just need what relay to get for now.......sposed to get up to 50 tomm so i'm gonna shut it down and clean out the flyash and install the baro damper that gaw gave me.....help me please need 2 know what relay to pick up.... this ton of coal every 10-15 days is killin me!

stoker-man · By: **stoker-man** On: Mon Feb 04, 2008 9:24 pm

Looks like Big Jim called it again and I learned something new about the worn worm.

A simple single pole relay, controlled by your 24V transformer, should work. We only stock the double pole type, but you could use one side of it. The proper relay/timer for your unit is the Wilburt relay/timer. They are rather expensive, but last forever.

When you start making homemade timers and relays, etc. you violate whatever UL rating the unit once had. They may work great, but if there is ever a problem.............

stoker-man · By: **stoker-man** On: Mon Feb 04, 2008 9:49 pm

I put in a request to oilman to give you a helping hand. He might have a used timer. Also, Advanced Energy in NY, Dave O'Neil might have a used timer/relay.

It would pay you to get the proper timer. It probably would pay for itself within the year. You have to run the timer, electrically AFTER the fan/limit switch, which is shown in the top left corner of your first picture. Even with a used timer, all the repair parts are individually available.

A timer for a hot water unit is the same as your required timer. The only difference is that your type of timer has the built-in relay and transformer.

Jim also asked if you were dumping the fines each day.

oilman · By: **oilman** On: Tue Feb 05, 2008 7:47 pm

We use remanufactured Honeywell R833B stoker relays. I am not sure if I can still get them or not, I have a small cache here for my customers.
I would suggest doing it right and getting the Wil-Burt timer. Have to have a timer when it's above 40 degrees with the 150 furnace.

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