Small Coal Stove Practical? Recommendations?

 
Burt
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Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Keystoker Hopper

Post by Burt » Fri. Jun. 06, 2014 10:12 am

Sorry the pic is sideways. I hope to put a small stove about where the Peavy bass amp is sitting. This gives about 20" to the back wall and would require insulated pipe at least where it would be taking the bend into the to-be-made thimble. Also, a sheet metal baffle would likely be required in front of the back wall, behind the stove. Thanks!

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Hope to put stove about where Peavy amp is located

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wsherrick
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Post by wsherrick » Sun. Jun. 08, 2014 4:10 pm

That is a good place for the stove. It looks like the area is open to other rooms so the heat can move around some. A small Glenwood or Crawford, Magee or similar base heater will only take up 2 square feet of floor space.

 
Burt
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Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Keystoker Hopper

Post by Burt » Mon. Jun. 09, 2014 5:43 am

Thanks! I now see that nothing compares to a good base burner. In fact, I think next year I will replace our wood stove with one, but in the big living room. I know the draft types are not as efficient or convenient, but I think the Chubby Junior is going to be right for this space. I assume the need for at least 20 inches to combustibles, and so having the smallest footprint is needed in this spot due to the need for clearance from a hide a bed couch. Setting the bed on fire would not be appreciated by our guests. Indeed, we won't even use the stove with that bed in use, but want a good safety margin even if somehow someone did.

I saw a Chubby Jr for $125 advertised only 45 minutes away in Bangor. It needs rebuilding and paint. It was posted to CList only 5 hrs previously yday, so I responded. No reply so I assume it is gone.

Special thanks to all! Great site and I'll be back.

 
ddahlgren
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Post by ddahlgren » Mon. Jun. 16, 2014 6:00 am

Burt wrote:What beautiful stoves! My, what speedy responses! Thank you! Alas, I'm afraid the Glenwood is too big for the space we have due to the location of seating and the chimney. Perhaps the Crawford is smaller? I would be happy to stick one of these in the middle of the room but my wife has a say in this and does not want a stove that big. It would interfere with viewing videos. (Yes, better to see the glow through mica! ) But family visits.....The footprint needs to be down to about 16" square if this is going to work.
Your foot print does not have stack clearances to meet NFPA clearances for fire protection.


 
Burt
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Location: Midcoast Maine
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Keystoker Hopper

Post by Burt » Mon. Jun. 16, 2014 6:22 am

Thank you, and that could be very critical. What I should have said was 16" for the stove itself. I was planning on the closest edge of the stove to the wall being 20", and a sheet metal barrier just off the wall. I should have been more clear. So it will be about 3' into the room as I planned. Is that okay? Thank you.

 
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Sunny Boy
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Post by Sunny Boy » Mon. Jun. 16, 2014 6:40 am

With the right design of shields you can get closer than 20 inches. Done correctly with sheet metal, you can get as close as 12 inches.

And, shields can sometimes also be put on the stove to help reduce clearance even more. Then the problem becomes the pipe clearance and how to reduce it as much as the stove.

See here,

https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/article ... wall_clear

https://www.hearth.com/talk/wiki/nfpa-wall-cleara ... eductions/

Paul

 
ddahlgren
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Post by ddahlgren » Mon. Jun. 16, 2014 7:10 am

I made a heat shield for my woodstove out of .062 50582 aluminum on metal 2 X 3s it works very well and left it shiny aluminum to reflect heat. With stove and pipe 11 inches from shield it does not even get warm. I have had the stove top up to 700F and internal pipe temp got away from me once when I spaced out starting it from cold and hit around 1200F barely warm at that temp. The key is to keep it reflective and have the gap between shield and wall open for easy air flow between shield and wall. I bought the sheet metal from Yarde metals, they have a drop zone for pieces left over from a cut to size order. If you buy the cosmetic grade stuff it will come with a thin sheet of plastic on one side that can be peeled off after installing for a perfect finish on the good side.

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