Pulled The Trigger. Herald #6 Will Be New Family Member

Re: Pulled The Trigger. Herald #6 Will Be New Family Member

PostBy: lowfog01 On: Sun Jun 29, 2014 8:05 am

Yes, seriously think about moving the piano. The dry heat coming from the stove is going to screw up the inner works and the piano cabinet. It will get so that the piano won't be able to hold a tune. The wood will split and it won't be pretty.

The other option to moving it is getting an internal humidifier/dehumidifier for the piano. My piano, very similar to yours, is in the other room away from the stove and has a humidifier/dehumidifier in it. I'm filling that up every week while the stove is burning. The wood just sucks the water up. In the summer I have to fill it every 6 weeks or so. Definitely, give some thought on how you are going to protect the piano from the dry air. Lisa
lowfog01
 
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Mark II & Mark I

Re: Pulled The Trigger. Herald #6 Will Be New Family Member

PostBy: LsFarm On: Sun Jun 29, 2014 9:05 am

Hi UncleDD, you might want to move the piano a few more feet away from the stove location. Just to help keep the piano from becoming overly dried out from the heat.

I think that location is perfect. Are you going to be able to put the stove flue through the fireplace opening and up past the fireplace damper? or are you going to install a 'thimble' through the plaster/drywall above the fireplace mantle?

Either way I think a nice antique cylinder stove will look great in that room.

I think I remember that William plays piano? Maybe you should invite him over for the inaugural 'first match' ? :lol: And have William play some fine old tunes for the occasion?

Take care.. remember, without photos, it never really happened !! :shock: :D

Greg L

Oh, no need I'm sure for a permit, you have the chimney already. You just need to install it safely, show the instalation photos to your insurance agent, I'm sure all will be well.

You did read the very long 'sticky Thread' about minor explosions in hand fed stoves, right? That thread has been a 'Sticky' for many years.. it's full of good advice and techniques.

Greg L
LsFarm
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260
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Re: Pulled The Trigger. Herald #6 Will Be New Family Member

PostBy: UncleDoDat On: Sun Jun 29, 2014 6:55 pm

[quote=" I think that location is perfect Are you going to be able to put the stove flue through the fireplace opening and up past the fireplace damper? or are you going to install a 'thimble' through the plaster/drywall above the fireplace mantle?

Either way I think a nice antique cylinder stove will look great in that room.

I think I remember that William plays piano? Maybe you should invite him over for the inaugural 'first match' ? :lol: And have William play some fine old tunes for the occasion?

Take care.. remember, without photos, it never really happened !! :shock: :D

Greg L

Oh, no need I'm sure for a permit, you have the chimney already. You just need to install it safely, show the installation photos to your insurance agent, I'm sure all will be well.

You did read the very long 'sticky Thread' about minor explosions in hand fed stoves, right? That thread has been a 'Sticky' for many years.. it's full of good advice and techniques. [/quote]

Yes I'll probably just move the piano.. And that location I believe it probably was a stove of some sort there in the early 1900's as the fireplace bricks is not made of firebricks. Why would a fireplace be constructed with out firebrick? Since I now know about these stoves I can totally see one sitting there 80 yrs ago. I am hoping to be able to run the flue through the existing fireplace. But if they have to cut a hole through the dry wall so be it. But I hope it doesn't come to that.
UncleDoDat
 

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Re: Pulled The Trigger. Herald #6 Will Be New Family Member

PostBy: Hambden Bob On: Sun Jun 29, 2014 8:25 pm

You've Started,now The rest will follow.....You'll enjoy this! :up:
Hambden Bob
 
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Harman 1998 Magnum Stoker
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Re: Pulled The Trigger. Herald #6 Will Be New Family Member

PostBy: Sunny Boy On: Mon Jun 30, 2014 7:36 am

Congrats!

You should have the chimney inspected, if only to see what's blocking the damper. Is it fallen bricks,.... or Rocky and family ? :shock:

Paul
Sunny Boy
 
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Anthracite Industrial, domestic hot water heater
Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood range 208, # 6 base heater, 2 Modern Oak 118.
Coal Size/Type: Nuts !
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Re: Pulled The Trigger. Herald #6 Will Be New Family Member

PostBy: windyhill4.2 On: Mon Jun 30, 2014 8:51 am

As i recall, the only thing known at the present that prevents the damper from being opened is that the wooden mantle piece is preventing the damper handle from rotating. Cut a chunk out or whatever so the handle can rotate & go from there.
windyhill4.2
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: 1960 EFM520 installed in truck box
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Re: Pulled The Trigger. Herald #6 Will Be New Family Member

PostBy: Sunny Boy On: Mon Jun 30, 2014 9:17 am

windyhill4.2 wrote:As i recall, the only thing known at the present that prevents the damper from being opened is that the wooden mantle piece is preventing the damper handle from rotating. Cut a chunk out or whatever so the handle can rotate & go from there.



Dave,
In one of his posts (or in our pm exchanges) he mentioned that he was told there was also something up against the damper preventing it moving,... other than the blocked handle.

Could be loose bricks, or pieces of broken flue tile liner ???

Paul
Sunny Boy
 
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Anthracite Industrial, domestic hot water heater
Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood range 208, # 6 base heater, 2 Modern Oak 118.
Coal Size/Type: Nuts !
Other Heating: Oil &electric plenum furnace

Re: Pulled The Trigger. Herald #6 Will Be New Family Member

PostBy: UncleDoDat On: Mon Jun 30, 2014 6:58 pm

Sunny Boy wrote:
windyhill4.2 wrote:As i recall, the only thing known at the present that prevents the damper from being opened is that the wooden mantle piece is preventing the damper handle from rotating. Cut a chunk out or whatever so the handle can rotate & go from there.



Dave,
In one of his posts (or in our pm exchanges) he mentioned that he was told there was also something up against the damper preventing it moving,... other than the blocked handle.

Could be loose bricks, or pieces of broken flue tile liner ???

Paul


Yes, he is right. There's something up there, but isn't that what these chimney doctors are for. I mean $199.00 for a chimney sweep. I'd think if there is something blocking it from the inside those guys should no how to deal with that. Seems minor to me, but what'll I know. If it is not possible or not recommended that going up the chimney. Then I guess they'll cut though the dry wall above the mantel. But Mr. Herald will be installed one way or another.
UncleDoDat
 

Re: Pulled The Trigger. Herald #6 Will Be New Family Member

PostBy: UncleDoDat On: Tue Jul 01, 2014 2:52 am

I got this E-Mail from my local stove shop.
Hi,
We can install a stove like that but because of its age we have to keep it 3' from any combustable. Not sure if you have that kind of room in your situation but that’s what it would have to be if we would install it.
Thanks
What can I do to shorten this distance. In order to have Mr. Herald closer to the fireplace entrance. Short of replacing the mantel with something non-conbustable.

Thanks in advance
UncleDoDat
 

Re: Pulled The Trigger. Herald #6 Will Be New Family Member

PostBy: Sunny Boy On: Tue Jul 01, 2014 5:14 am

Your options are limited if you want it closer to the mantel.

1. As you've already said, remove, or replace the mantel.
2. Make a heat shield for the mantel.
3. Have Doug make a heat shield for the back top area of the stove.

My range couldn't be out 3 feet from the wall. I've had a wall-mount heat shield before and didn't like the look of it. I made a sheet metal heat shield for the back of the range. Smaller than a wall mount and looks like part of the stove.

Paul
Sunny Boy
 
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Anthracite Industrial, domestic hot water heater
Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood range 208, # 6 base heater, 2 Modern Oak 118.
Coal Size/Type: Nuts !
Other Heating: Oil &electric plenum furnace

Re: Pulled The Trigger. Herald #6 Will Be New Family Member

PostBy: windyhill4.2 On: Tue Jul 01, 2014 6:37 am

Brick hearth,brick fireplace,a brick mantle & surround would fit right in & look good too. Unfortunately, as with so many projects,to do it right ends up costing more then expected/planned/wanted.
windyhill4.2
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: 1960 EFM520 installed in truck box
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Crane 404 with variable blower
Coal Size/Type: 404-nut, 520 rice ,anthracite for both

Re: Pulled The Trigger. Herald #6 Will Be New Family Member

PostBy: Sunny Boy On: Tue Jul 01, 2014 6:59 am

windyhill4.2 wrote:Brick hearth,brick fireplace,a brick mantle & surround would fit right in & look good too. Unfortunately, as with so many projects,to do it right ends up costing more then expected/planned/wanted.



Dave,

With a stove 5 feet high, the default rating of 3 foot distance to combustibles would mean the area well above the mantel also has to be brick.

And, even at that, according to code, one layer of brick over combustibles as a heat shield wouldn't allow the stove to be as close as a stand-off sheet metal heat shield with a one inch air gap. There are other materials or combinations that could get the stove even closer.

Using the existing stove fasteners, so that it doesn't lower the stove's value, Doug may be able to make a heat shield for the back of the stove that would allow it to be within a foot of the mantel.

Paul
Sunny Boy
 
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Anthracite Industrial, domestic hot water heater
Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood range 208, # 6 base heater, 2 Modern Oak 118.
Coal Size/Type: Nuts !
Other Heating: Oil &electric plenum furnace

Re: Pulled The Trigger. Herald #6 Will Be New Family Member

PostBy: windyhill4.2 On: Tue Jul 01, 2014 7:44 am

That is why in 2001 when we moved into our current place we lifted the ceiling & rebuilt the wall behind the wood stove that was in place. I laid a block wall & put stack stone on the front face,there is no combustible behind that area & it goes up to 6.5-7' ,not sure. Your heat shield idea is probably the most sensible/lowest cost idea.
windyhill4.2
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: 1960 EFM520 installed in truck box
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Crane 404 with variable blower
Coal Size/Type: 404-nut, 520 rice ,anthracite for both

Re: Pulled The Trigger. Herald #6 Will Be New Family Member

PostBy: scalabro On: Tue Jul 01, 2014 7:55 am

You don't need the chimney guy to hook up the stove if you don't want to.

So forget the three foot rule for now, especially if you are not required to get a permit.

I have a 48 inch sheet metal brake in the aircraft hangar I work at.

I will bend you a heat shield for the cost of materials and shipping.

If it's painted white it will disappear, all eye's will be on the Herald, believe me!

Plenty of folks here will guide you step by step.

First things first.

Get the chimney operational.

Set the stove on the hearth and measure.

Then you can SEE what you will need to do.
scalabro
 
Baseburners & Antiques: Crawford 40, PP Stewart No. 14 in the works.
Coal Size/Type: Stove, Anthracite.
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Re: Pulled The Trigger. Herald #6 Will Be New Family Member

PostBy: UncleDoDat On: Tue Jul 01, 2014 3:32 pm

First things first.

Get the chimney operational.

Set the stove on the hearth and measure.

Then you can SEE what you will need to do.

Cool 8-) Yeah, I am just moving too fast. I just dont like the 36" rule. After measuring 36 inches from the mantel it would over shoot the floor hearth bricks. I just would like the heater to sit on the hearth. Also, I have this Email from my local fireplace
If it does not have a UL tested plate on the back you have to keep it at 36". The only way to reduce the clearance would be to pull the wood mantel off and do a 24gauge sheet metal with a 1"inch air space. This would be the only way to meet the NFPA 211 standards. We would not do this, you would have to get someone else to do that. We would also have to have a new hole in the flue above the fireplace because you can not go down hill with the pipe and with the height of the stove it would be to high to go in the fireplace. The fireplace would have to be blocked off with a metal plate up by the damper. Here again a mason would have to put the new hole in to the flue but we could do the damper plate. I could have the guys stop out and take another look
UncleDoDat
 

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