Anybody Familiar With Newmac Combination Furnace?

Post Reply
 
coalmark
New Member
Posts: 17
Joined: Tue. Feb. 05, 2008 8:18 pm

Post by coalmark » Tue. Feb. 05, 2008 8:32 pm

I have a newmac combination furnace. The "coal burning tips" section is all of half a printed page. I got a great fire started lasted 36 hours. Seems to be dying. I read in another post to just leave it be with the ash door open, I am doing just that. However can someone shed some light on how to properly maintain a fire in this or similar furnaces? Specifically, should the manual damper be open, closed or partially opened. The unit has a blower that is controlled by a thermostat?

 
User avatar
LsFarm
Member
Posts: 7383
Joined: Sun. Nov. 20, 2005 8:02 pm
Location: Michigan
Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Self-built 'Big Bertha' SS Boiler
Baseburners & Antiques: Keystone 11, Art Garland

Post by LsFarm » Tue. Feb. 05, 2008 8:42 pm

Do you have a photo of the furnace?? a photo of the firebox and grates would help.

In general, if the fire appears to be dying, it probably has an accumulation of ash on the grate. Does your furnace have shaker grates?? Have you agressively shaken the grate untill you see some hot coals fire into the ashpan?? If your firebrick are arranged like a 'V' with the grate at the bottom, the 'V' becomes a funnel, concentrating the ash on the grate, so you need to do a lot of shaking to get the ash through the grate and into the ashpan.

I'll try a google search for your furnace.

Greg L

.

 
coalmark
New Member
Posts: 17
Joined: Tue. Feb. 05, 2008 8:18 pm

Post by coalmark » Tue. Feb. 05, 2008 8:58 pm

No pictures. Furnace has grates five flat ones, I shook until embers fell and a faint orange glow was visible. I was afraid I would shake it too much.

 
coalmark
New Member
Posts: 17
Joined: Tue. Feb. 05, 2008 8:18 pm

Post by coalmark » Tue. Feb. 05, 2008 9:11 pm

Fire box is cast iron


 
User avatar
coaledsweat
Site Moderator
Posts: 13766
Joined: Fri. Oct. 27, 2006 2:05 pm
Location: Guilford, Connecticut
Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260M
Coal Size/Type: Pea

Post by coaledsweat » Tue. Feb. 05, 2008 9:19 pm

No firebrick?

 
coalmark
New Member
Posts: 17
Joined: Tue. Feb. 05, 2008 8:18 pm

Post by coalmark » Tue. Feb. 05, 2008 9:29 pm

No, cast iron plates

 
User avatar
LsFarm
Member
Posts: 7383
Joined: Sun. Nov. 20, 2005 8:02 pm
Location: Michigan
Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Self-built 'Big Bertha' SS Boiler
Baseburners & Antiques: Keystone 11, Art Garland

Post by LsFarm » Tue. Feb. 05, 2008 10:00 pm

To get the fire 'revved up' you need the manual damper open. Make sure you have plenty of coal in the firebox, you need a deep bed of coal covering the entire firebox. The coal will burn from the bottom up, but you need to keep the coal bed deep, the coal will burn to ash at the bottom and fall into the ashpan. You need to keep adding coal to keep the coal bed deep.

Don't let any air in above the fire, all air must come in from below, up through the coal bed.

Hopefully the above will help you keep the fire going.

Greg L.

.

 
coalmark
New Member
Posts: 17
Joined: Tue. Feb. 05, 2008 8:18 pm

Post by coalmark » Tue. Feb. 05, 2008 10:06 pm

Should I try to shake it again?


 
User avatar
LsFarm
Member
Posts: 7383
Joined: Sun. Nov. 20, 2005 8:02 pm
Location: Michigan
Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Self-built 'Big Bertha' SS Boiler
Baseburners & Antiques: Keystone 11, Art Garland

Post by LsFarm » Tue. Feb. 05, 2008 10:31 pm

If you have fresh coal on the fire, the manual damper open, the loading door closed, the ash door open, you should have the fire getting hotter, If you have a piece of 1/4" or 3/16" steel rod, bend an 'L' on one end and use this to poke up from below through the gaps in the grates. This will open up the air passageways.

You may have waited too long to add fresh fuel and have only glowing embers remaining, and they don't hold enough heat to relight fresh coal.. You may have to start over again with a fresh fire. If the heat output of the fire is too low, you won't get much draft from the chimney, and this makes recovering the fire even more difficult..

Do you have much of a fire or heat in the furnace ?? Is the chimney flue pipe hot? or just luke warm.?

Sorry, I can't think of anything else right now.

greg L.

 
User avatar
jeromemsn
Member
Posts: 1088
Joined: Thu. Oct. 04, 2007 12:30 am
Location: Edwardsburg, Mi. 49112
Hot Air Coal Stoker Furnace: Keystoker 90 dvc
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Harman elite fireplace insert

Post by jeromemsn » Tue. Feb. 05, 2008 10:36 pm

Just a thought. If your in a part of the country right now that is warmer than usual like it is here in south central Pa. (52 right) your fire might be a bit on the weak side as mine is. coal likes it cold outside I have found. Others I'm sure will chime in but I'm having a hard time even keeping a fire and thought about letting it go out. Welcome to the forum, sorry about my manners. :)

 
User avatar
LsFarm
Member
Posts: 7383
Joined: Sun. Nov. 20, 2005 8:02 pm
Location: Michigan
Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Self-built 'Big Bertha' SS Boiler
Baseburners & Antiques: Keystone 11, Art Garland

Post by LsFarm » Tue. Feb. 05, 2008 10:40 pm

If you are helping, it's good manners !! :D :)

Good point about the outside temps.. I forgot about that. :roll: :x :lol:

Greg L.

 
coalmark
New Member
Posts: 17
Joined: Tue. Feb. 05, 2008 8:18 pm

Post by coalmark » Tue. Feb. 05, 2008 10:47 pm

Fire was fairly hot when I started today, good thick bed of coals when I added new this evening. It was warm today, close to 60. I will try poking

Post Reply

Return to “Hand Fired Coal Stoves & Furnaces Using Anthracite”