The Chimney begins

Re: The Chimney begins

PostBy: freetown fred On: Sat Aug 02, 2014 6:30 am

Shawn, stay away from those elbows as best ya can!
freetown fred
 
Hand Fed Coal Stove: HITZER 50-93
Coal Size/Type: BLASCHAK Nut/Stove mix

Re: The Chimney begins

PostBy: ShawnTRD On: Sat Aug 02, 2014 7:02 am

OK so I'll do two tees. Is it better to install the damper in the straighg pipe or is the upper tee fine?
ShawnTRD
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker KA6 (New in April 2014)
Other Heating: Weil Mclain WGO-2 (Net 75k BTU)

Re: The Chimney begins

PostBy: Rob R. On: Sat Aug 02, 2014 7:03 am

It will be more accurate if installed in a straight run of pipe.
Rob R.
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM DF520
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Hitzer 50-93
Coal Size/Type: Lehigh Rice
Other Heating: Dad's 1953 EFM Highboy


Re: The Chimney begins

PostBy: titleist1 On: Sat Aug 02, 2014 9:04 am

I've had my baro in the end of the upper T for many years and it has worked fine. I calibrated the counterweight with the manometer rather than using the numbers on the scale so I feel it is accurate enough. Makes it easy to insert the vacuum wand to clean out the fly ash heading toward the thimble.

If you have the flue pipe at an angle from the exhaust port to the thimble fly ash will lay in that section. Depending on the steepness of the angle you will need to tap the pipe to get it to the lower T for clean out or you will need to insert a vacuum wand. Not a big deal either way but just so you are aware to check it out after about a ton of coal has been burned to see how fast it accumulates.
titleist1
 
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Harman Mag Stoker (old style) one in basement, one in workshop
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Harman Mark III on standby for long power outages
Coal Size/Type: Rice/Anthracite; Nut/Anthracite

Re: The Chimney begins

PostBy: coaledsweat On: Sat Aug 02, 2014 9:32 am

ShawnTRD wrote:Thanks Rob
Didn't think about the tees. I have to go about four feet to the right from the back of the boiler to the chimney. Should I have the pipe go in angle or an extra elbow and keep everything vertical and horizontal?

Horizontal needs a nice pitch upward on the way out. Keep the elbows to a minimum, they eat draft.
coaledsweat
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260M
Coal Size/Type: Pea

Re: The Chimney begins

PostBy: ShawnTRD On: Sat Aug 02, 2014 1:20 pm

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ShawnTRD
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker KA6 (New in April 2014)
Other Heating: Weil Mclain WGO-2 (Net 75k BTU)

Re: The Chimney begins

PostBy: Lightning On: Sat Aug 02, 2014 3:46 pm

Hey that's coming along nice!!
Lightning
 
Hand Fed Coal Furnace: Clayton 1537G
Coal Size/Type: Nut/Stove Size Mix

Re: The Chimney begins

PostBy: ShawnTRD On: Sat Aug 02, 2014 9:01 pm

All Done

Can the tee at the bottom be set at an angle? I think it will be about 60 degree angle. Also I have about 22" from the sheetrock to the body of the boiler. Think that's more then enough? Keystoker says 18" to remove DHW coil if needed.

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ShawnTRD
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker KA6 (New in April 2014)
Other Heating: Weil Mclain WGO-2 (Net 75k BTU)

Re: The Chimney begins

PostBy: McGiever On: Sat Aug 02, 2014 9:22 pm

Can the tee at the bottom be set at an angle? I think it will be about 60 degree angle. Also I have about 22" from the sheetrock to the body of the boiler. Think that's more then enough? Keystoker says 18" to remove DHW coil if needed.


I just measured a K-6 DHW coil that is for in a 4" hole...it needs 32" to be withdrawn...plus you would need to add on to that for the flange and any fittings/protrusions.

Maybe they make them shorter now??? Is you hole 4"?
Last edited by McGiever on Sat Aug 02, 2014 9:23 pm, edited 1 time in total.
McGiever
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: AXEMAN-ANDERSON 130 "1959"
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: HARMAN MAGNUM
Hand Fed Coal Stove: RADIANT HOME AIR BLAST
Baseburners & Antiques: OUR GLENWOOD 111 BASEBURNER "1908"
Coal Size/Type: PEA / ANTHRACITE, NUT-STOVE / ANTHRACITE
Other Heating: Ground Source Heat Pump
Stove/Furnace Make: Hydro Heat /Mega Tek

Re: The Chimney begins

PostBy: lzaharis On: Sat Aug 02, 2014 9:23 pm

I would not leave that chimney by itself with no external anchorage Shawn.

Mine is tile lined and totally exposed also like yours. It is anchored to the house
using four pieces of angle iron surrounding the block at one point and and a length of
angle iron running horizontally to the end eave attached to a larger block of wood secured
to the home.

You have to remember that the entire surface area of the block chimney as it now stands
is subject to wind loading and stress will be transmitted from the top to the bottom, tile liner
or no tile liner.

I would talk to a roofer about installing an anchorage for the chimney quickly because you have a
very high risk situation there.
lzaharis
 
Stove/Furnace Make: Switzer
Stove/Furnace Model: CWW100 100,000 btu

Re: The Chimney begins

PostBy: ShawnTRD On: Sat Aug 02, 2014 9:26 pm

Also what do I need around that clay flue for a thimble? Example?
ShawnTRD
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker KA6 (New in April 2014)
Other Heating: Weil Mclain WGO-2 (Net 75k BTU)

Re: The Chimney begins

PostBy: ShawnTRD On: Sat Aug 02, 2014 9:31 pm

lzaharis wrote:I would not leave that chimney by itself with no external anchorage Shawn.


In this picture you can see they anchored it to the rim joist of the house. I'm assuming they also did this at the roof where he needed to cut through to go over. I will ask him tomorrow when he returns to get his tractor just to make sure.

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ShawnTRD
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker KA6 (New in April 2014)
Other Heating: Weil Mclain WGO-2 (Net 75k BTU)

Re: The Chimney begins

PostBy: lzaharis On: Sat Aug 02, 2014 10:11 pm

Those are brick ties, shawn they help hold bricks in place
when they are sistered to block or concrete walls when a brick facade-
pronounced (FA SOD) is desired.

Not trying to give you another headache Shawn I just do not want
to see the chimney come down.

Keep in mind that all four sides of the chimney above the gutter are
subject to wind loading at all times.

My chimney is sixteen feet tall before the chimney extension and my chimney is freestanding at the intersection of a low valley roof.

If your second chimney is going to be that tall or taller you have the
same issues. Its a pay me now or pay me later problem.
lzaharis
 
Stove/Furnace Make: Switzer
Stove/Furnace Model: CWW100 100,000 btu

Re: The Chimney begins

PostBy: lzaharis On: Sat Aug 02, 2014 10:14 pm

ShawnTRD wrote:Also what do I need around that clay flue for a thimble? Example?



I think you need to strip the insulation away from the thimble tile as it
will get very warm and melt over time.
lzaharis
 
Stove/Furnace Make: Switzer
Stove/Furnace Model: CWW100 100,000 btu

Re: The Chimney begins

PostBy: tsb On: Sat Aug 02, 2014 10:49 pm

One hell of a first step out that door !
tsb
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: Binford 2000
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: LL Pioneer top vent
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Saey Hanover II