6 Inch Liner in 7X11 Flue?

 
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Post by flyers » Tue. Aug. 05, 2014 10:35 am

Existing flue is not in great condition--a few cracked flue tiles. Looking at a SS liner but how to fit a 6 inch liner with insulation into a 7x11 (ID) rectangular flue? The professionals said they might be able to do it, but it would be costly. They also discouraged a do-it-yourself option--concerned the liner and insulation would be damaged trying to stuff it down the flue.

One additional variable: the corner chimney has a hell of a turn (almost 90 degrees) at the bottom of the flue just as it enters the smoke chamber area. The professionals said they will have to remove some bricks to make the turn and another reason they discouraged a do-it-yourself option. Hiring the professionals is beyond my budget. Any suggestions for the do-it-yourself option or alternative venting hook-ups?

Or, if I cannot figure something out, I may have a nice buck stove for sale.


 
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freetown fred
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Post by freetown fred » Tue. Aug. 05, 2014 10:46 am

A few cracked tiles shouldn't affect anything. Can you get at them at all to maybe patch--which I personally think is unnecessary--where are you from--state??? I won't even get started on SS liners--:) What is your definition of a few cracked tiles????

 
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Post by coaledsweat » Tue. Aug. 05, 2014 10:52 am

First, does the chimney draft well? If so, you're all set. I would test with smoke or candle to get an idea. The liner is just an expensive fleecing in my book. It serves only one purpose, to line the pockets of the installer.

How tall is the chimney and is it in the home or up the side of it?

 
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Post by flyers » Tue. Aug. 05, 2014 11:01 am

A few responses: no idea about the draft, just moved in a few months ago. It is an exterior corner chimney atleast 21-22' tall in the Harrisburg area. Not sure of the details of the cracked tiles--inspector stuck his head up there and said he thought he saw one. A couple hundred dollars more and I could have had some camera shots but did't want to waste more money.

 
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Post by McGiever » Tue. Aug. 05, 2014 11:08 am

Couple more Q's...Are you looking to burn wood or coal or some gas?

:idea: Some here have tied their cell phones on a string and made video while lowering the phone down inside their chimney. :idea:
Last edited by McGiever on Tue. Aug. 05, 2014 11:09 am, edited 1 time in total.

 
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Post by flyers » Tue. Aug. 05, 2014 11:08 am

Coal only (perhaps some wood or charcoal to get it started).

 
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Post by coaledsweat » Tue. Aug. 05, 2014 11:09 am

Clear the thimble and use a cigarette or candle to test for draft. If it pulls the smoke or flame strongly into the thimble light it up. A cracked tile is of no consequence.


 
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Post by McGiever » Tue. Aug. 05, 2014 11:16 am

What has been offered so far in this thread is spot on. 8-)

Save the money from what you would of spent on the liner and use it to buy your coal. :)

Sit back and relax this winter you're now on coal burner easy street. ;)

Do NOT forget...You MUST have a Carbon Monoxide Detector on every level of your house. :!:

 
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Post by coaledsweat » Tue. Aug. 05, 2014 11:41 am

...... and three screws in every stovepipe joint.

 
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Post by Lightning » Tue. Aug. 05, 2014 12:25 pm

That chimney might not draft at all while its cold. But that doesn't mean it won't draft with a stove hooked up.. Shouldn't he send some warm air up it somehow?? Maybe with a hair dryer?

 
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Post by michaelanthony » Tue. Aug. 05, 2014 12:29 pm

[quote="Lightning"]That chimney might not draft at all while its cold. But that doesn't mean it won't draft with a stove hooked up.. Shouldn't he send some warm air up it somehow?? Maybe with a hair dryer?[/quote]

.......night temps are getting cool, just a thought.

 
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Post by Lightning » Tue. Aug. 05, 2014 12:44 pm

True enough Mike... do a smoke test on a cool night before the chimney has time to cool down.. I think you'll be golden.. previous posters are correct, a metal liner shouldn't even be an option.

 
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Post by coaledsweat » Tue. Aug. 05, 2014 1:15 pm

Lightning wrote:That chimney might not draft at all while its cold. But that doesn't mean it won't draft with a stove hooked up.. Shouldn't he send some warm air up it somehow?? Maybe with a hair dryer?
At 22' it should have no trouble drafting cold. Draft is an attempt to correct the pressure differential at each end of the tube. The bottom of the tube has 22' more air squeezing it than the top, it will seek equalization.

 
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Post by DePippo79 » Tue. Aug. 05, 2014 1:29 pm

Here's a option if your comfortable getting on the roof. Tie your cell phone to a rope or something similiar and take your own video. I use zip ties to fasten the rope or line to the phone so a knot doesn't get in the way or come loose half way down. Might not be as good as a sweeps expensive video equipment, but it would give you an idea of overall condition. I would forget about the chimney sweep and try and find a mason. Remember coal is not wood. No creosote. Good luck. Matt

 
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Post by Lightning » Tue. Aug. 05, 2014 1:51 pm

coaledsweat wrote:
Lightning wrote:That chimney might not draft at all while its cold. But that doesn't mean it won't draft with a stove hooked up.. Shouldn't he send some warm air up it somehow?? Maybe with a hair dryer?
At 22' it should have no trouble drafting cold. Draft is an attempt to correct the pressure differential at each end of the tube. The bottom of the tube has 22' more air squeezing it than the top, it will seek equalization.
Ah ah ah Mr moderator.. gotta disagree partner... temperature is what makes the chimney draft.. although the chimney has 22 more feet of atmospheric pressure at the bottom, it is neutralized by having 22 feet less at the top.. your suggestion illustrates a gravity powered perpetual motion mechanism.. ;)

If all we had to do is stand a tall tube on its end to create a draft we would have the answer to all the worlds energy needs...


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