Bum, I Just Burned 21.4 Lbs Per Day for 1 Full Summer Week

 
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McGiever
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Post by McGiever » Wed. Aug. 13, 2014 6:35 pm

lsayre wrote:Well so far, based on the look and quantity (and weight) of the ashes, I'm seeing no improvement.
What are all your settings?


 
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Post by lsayre » Wed. Aug. 13, 2014 8:23 pm

McGiever wrote:What are all your settings?
Ashing presently initiates at 110 degrees and stops at 115 degrees. (5 degrees hysteresis)
Fan is presently set to turn on at 165 degrees, and off at 175 degrees. (10 degree fixed differential)

Should I try raising the ashing temp so it starts at 125 degrees and stops at 130 degrees?
Would that expand the overall depth (thickness) of the fire?
I believe this would lower the position of the fire in the firetube. Is this correct?

Mods: If this thread was to be moved to the AHS Forum, perhaps they could assist here as well. In retrospect, I should probably have started it there in the first place...

 
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Post by McGiever » Wed. Aug. 13, 2014 8:55 pm

lsayre wrote:
McGiever wrote:What are all your settings?
Ashing presently initiates at 110 degrees and stops at 115 degrees. (5 degrees hysteresis)
Fan is presently set to turn on at 165 degrees, and off at 175 degrees. (10 degree fixed differential)

Should I try raising the ashing temp so it starts at 125 degrees and stops at 130 degrees?
Would that expand the overall depth (thickness) of the fire?
I believe this would lower the position of the fire in the firetube. Is this correct?
Yes, try raising ashing temp.
Not sure, if thickness will change much. If it indeed burns the coal better, it just may expand some.
It should lower some, but again if the coal burns better, you may not notice much difference. :)

 
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Post by lsayre » Wed. Aug. 13, 2014 9:06 pm

Thanks McGiever! I just made the change, raising the ashing temperature. It will probably be a few days before I will notice if there has been benefit or not.

 
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Post by lsayre » Sun. Aug. 17, 2014 9:05 am

Just topped off, and used 21.4 lbs. per day again for the past week. Added 150 lbs to the hopper to bring it back to full. No change.

 
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Post by McGiever » Sun. Aug. 17, 2014 9:53 am

Might give some thought to these ideas, maybe...
1. Using another aquastat w/ adjustable differiental...and use higher spread.[longer firing cycle]
2. Adding some type of interval timer to cause a intermittent fire refresher.[shorten idle time]

I prefer number 1. over number 2. :idea:
If the idle time gets shortened it makes the firing cycle again also short. Only need so much heat produced...excess heat does not help here.

Hopefully others will weigh in w/ their thoughts. :)

 
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Post by lsayre » Sun. Aug. 17, 2014 10:44 am

I guess I could replace my 10 degree fixed differential Honeywell L4006A with one that has a variable differential. How much differential do you recommend? I see some L4006A's that are adjustable from 5 to 30 degrees.

I assume my L4006A is of type SPST. On the Honeywell site they list some L4006A's as break on temp rise and some as make on temp fall. What's the difference, and which type do I want?

I may even consider an L6006A, so I can have SPDT functionality, and do something else with the additional throw.


 
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Post by McGiever » Sun. Aug. 17, 2014 11:31 am

If SPST, then break on rise.

L7224 are digital. :)

 
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Post by SMITTY » Sun. Aug. 17, 2014 5:02 pm

As much as I hate electronics, I've had that 7224 on the oil burner for 9 years now and it hasn't missed a beat.

Although that damn sensor isn't as robust as the copper tube of the normal ones is. Already had to replace that when the sensing bulb remained in the well after trying to remove it ... :x $20 for a new one ...

 
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Post by lsayre » Sat. Aug. 23, 2014 7:24 am

Looks like this week will be more of the same. My new norm is 21 to 22 lbs. per day (up from about 14.5 lbs. per day with Blaschak).

I went back to 110 degrees on the ashing, after experiencing an appreciable puff-back at the 130 setting. None since going back to 110. None prior while at 110. Fire position must have been driven too low by the 130 setting.

I've ordered a Honeywell L6006A to replace my L4006A. Will try it at 15 or 20 degrees of differential (vs. the 10 degree fixed differential of the L4006A). The differential range of the L6006A is variable from 5 to 30 degrees.

What brands of repeat cycle timers are robust enough for a 1/2 HP fan? I'm thinking that the frequency of firing will go way down if I increase the differential beyond 10 degrees, and this may make adding the cycle timer a necessity. I'm wired for a timer already, as I gave one a trial, but it failed in but a short time span.
Last edited by lsayre on Sat. Aug. 23, 2014 7:29 am, edited 1 time in total.

 
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Post by Rob R. » Sat. Aug. 23, 2014 7:28 am

Intermatic C8865. 1 hour timer, no electronics to fail, rated for 20 amps.

 
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Post by McGiever » Sat. Aug. 23, 2014 9:54 am

Larry, Keep in mind, on these AHS & AA Boilers, a timer cycle will add consecutive BTUs to the point of needing BTUs dumped or just skipped timer cycles, once Safety/HI Limit is reached anyways depending on your wiring schem.

In other words, best to not use the timer if you can keep the fire w/o it...you can't keep adding more heat than you are using :idea:

The wider differential is for a slightly less frequent cycle...but longer more robust cycle/fire...timer cycles will only counter this desired effect by adding more cycles.

Bottom line...you only need small BTUs...don't make too many unless you want to dump them. :)
HTH

 
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Post by lsayre » Sat. Aug. 23, 2014 10:23 am

Good advice McGiever. One change at a time and then sit back and see what happens before making multiple changes at once. Replacing the L4006A with the L6006A will be the only change for phase one. If I can keep the fire even with the stretched out firing cycles, then no need for a repeat cycle timer.

Should I step it out to 15 degrees, or go straight to 20 degrees of differential?

 
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Post by McGiever » Sat. Aug. 23, 2014 10:31 am

20* will surely let you know if you're on the right path. :)

 
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Post by lsayre » Tue. Aug. 26, 2014 6:48 pm

The L6006A has arrived, so I'm preparing to replace the L4006A. I'm going to take this in baby steps and go with only a 15 degree differential to start.

I want to confirm that I'm going about this correctly, so please confirm this plan for the fan motor to start at 165 degrees, and shut off at 180 degrees:

1) Turn off power at the breaker and at the boiler.
2) Set the L6006A's differential pointer to 15 degrees.
2) Set the L6006A's temperature pointer to 180 degrees.
3) Remove the L4006A and install the L6006A
4) Wire the hot leg of the fan motor through terminals B and R on the L6006A so it makes at 165 and breaks at 180.

Since I'm not removing the well that currently has the L4006A's temperature probe in it, I assume I will not have to drain down the boiler before removing the L4006A's probe and inserting the L6006A's probe into the well.

Does the above plan of action sound right?

Will I need to purchase thermal transfer grease for the L6006A's probe (as I forgot to do this)?


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