Water Leaks at Threads.

 
Boots
Member
Posts: 197
Joined: Thu. Nov. 10, 2011 4:38 pm
Location: Central PA
Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker KA-6
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Burnham SFB 101 (sold)

Post by Boots » Mon. Aug. 11, 2014 6:30 pm

What are y'all's opinions of what to do about water leaking at threaded joints of a new install? I installed my boiler over the las week and I have several water leaks, all at threaded joints. I have personally seen similar leaks stop completely after the system gets up to temp for the first time and never come back. Is that common or should I just bite the bullet and start cutting?


 
User avatar
tsb
Member
Posts: 2616
Joined: Wed. Jul. 30, 2008 8:38 pm
Location: Douglassville, Pa
Stoker Coal Boiler: Binford 2000
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: LL Pioneer top vent
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Saey Hanover II
Baseburners & Antiques: Grander Golden Oak , Glenwood # 6
Coal Size/Type: All of them

Post by tsb » Mon. Aug. 11, 2014 6:52 pm

If you have enough unions in the system, you should be able to just tweek them a little.
How much pressure did you use for the test ? If they are not in an area where the
leaks drip on anything critical, just fire it up a see what happens. I had one that only
leaked below 120 degrees.

 
User avatar
coaledsweat
Site Moderator
Posts: 13763
Joined: Fri. Oct. 27, 2006 2:05 pm
Location: Guilford, Connecticut
Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260M
Coal Size/Type: Pea

Post by coaledsweat » Mon. Aug. 11, 2014 6:55 pm

Did you use pipe dope? Did you overtighten the pipe? Good pipe threads rarely leak, even assembled dry. It doesn't take a lot of force to tighten properly, tighten it too much and it isn't happy. Cheap pipe or a worn die for cutting threads can be a culprit too. I would pull it apart, examine the threads and if good, teflon tape, dope and reinstall. If the threads are iffy, replace.

 
franco b
Site Moderator
Posts: 11416
Joined: Wed. Nov. 05, 2008 5:11 pm
Location: Kent CT
Hand Fed Coal Stove: V ermont Castings 2310, Franco Belge 262
Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood Modern Oak 114
Coal Size/Type: nut and pea

Post by franco b » Mon. Aug. 11, 2014 7:16 pm

As tsb says, give it a try, you have nothing to lose. I have seen old time pipe fitters caulk leaks with lead wool.

 
crazy4coal
Member
Posts: 540
Joined: Wed. Feb. 13, 2008 8:29 pm
Location: Sussex County N.J.

Post by crazy4coal » Mon. Aug. 11, 2014 7:19 pm

If you used fittings from china the threads are junk. Nipples have too much thread and bottom out in the fittings, there tight but won't seal. I have been there and I'am not going back! :mad: I only use pipe and fitting from the US or Canada. :D

 
Boots
Member
Posts: 197
Joined: Thu. Nov. 10, 2011 4:38 pm
Location: Central PA
Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker KA-6
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Burnham SFB 101 (sold)

Post by Boots » Mon. Aug. 11, 2014 8:50 pm

All of the fittings I used were new and produced in canada. They seemed to be of decent quality, I've seen better, I've seen worse. The only old fitting I used was the bushing with the dip tube pre installed that keystoker provided. I used tape on all joints and did not under tighten. I plead the 5th on over tightening. None of the leaks are dripping on anything critical. I do have a few unions in my piping, but none where it helps me with this issue. One of the leaks is on the isolator pump flange, so thats an easy fix, some of the others would require cutting some of my pretty copper. :( but at least one of them I could use the oppritunity to install another union. I filled the system to about 25 psi for the pressure test. And the very worst leak Is where the supply piping leaves the top of the boiler. It was definitely was not under tightened :oops: If you get my drift....

 
User avatar
Rob R.
Site Moderator
Posts: 17980
Joined: Fri. Dec. 28, 2007 4:26 pm
Location: Chazy, NY
Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM 520
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Chubby Jr

Post by Rob R. » Mon. Aug. 11, 2014 8:57 pm

When you reassemble, use tape + GRRIP pipe dope.

5 boiler installs and many small jobs with GRRIP, not one leak.


 
Boots
Member
Posts: 197
Joined: Thu. Nov. 10, 2011 4:38 pm
Location: Central PA
Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker KA-6
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Burnham SFB 101 (sold)

Post by Boots » Mon. Aug. 11, 2014 9:24 pm

Rob R. wrote:When you reassemble, use tape + GRRIP pipe dope.

5 boiler installs and many small jobs with GRRIP, not one leak.
Not being contradictory here, but I thought you were not supposed to use tape AND dope. Or did I make that up?

 
User avatar
coaledsweat
Site Moderator
Posts: 13763
Joined: Fri. Oct. 27, 2006 2:05 pm
Location: Guilford, Connecticut
Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260M
Coal Size/Type: Pea

Post by coaledsweat » Mon. Aug. 11, 2014 9:40 pm

Boots wrote:
Rob R. wrote:When you reassemble, use tape + GRRIP pipe dope.

5 boiler installs and many small jobs with GRRIP, not one leak.
Not being contradictory here, but I thought you were not supposed to use tape AND dope. Or did I make that up?
Teflon tape acts as a thread lubricant, not as a sealant. With or without the tape, use the dope.

 
User avatar
wilder11354
Member
Posts: 1221
Joined: Sat. Jan. 29, 2011 10:48 pm
Location: Montrose, Pa.
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Harman SF260 Boiler
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Hitzer 50-93
Coal Size/Type: nut or pea, anthracite
Other Heating: crown oil boiler, backup.if needed

Post by wilder11354 » Mon. Aug. 11, 2014 9:47 pm

Teflon tape, teflon paste.... all work good, but the best thread, flange gasket/thread sealer I have ever used is Permatex # 2 Form a gasket sealant. Never had a leak using this on anything with threaded joint. good from -54*> 400* F. This is what I used on all my copper and iron thread joints in my install, no leaks.
http://www.permatex.com/products-2/product-catego ... ant-detail

 
User avatar
StokerDon
Site Moderator
Posts: 7486
Joined: Mon. Nov. 11, 2013 11:17 am
Location: PA, Southern York County!
Stoker Coal Boiler: Gentleman Janitor GJ-5, Van Wert VA-600, Axeman Anderson130 X3.
Hand Fed Coal Furnace: Harman SF3500 reduced down to 3 grates connected to its own plenum
Coal Size/Type: Rice, Chestnut and whatever will fit through the door on the Harman
Other Heating: Noth'in but COAL! Well, Maybe a little tiny bit of wood

Post by StokerDon » Tue. Aug. 12, 2014 7:21 pm

Boots,

I am currently re-doing all of my threaded pipe because of leaks! I did my install back in January. At first I just used TFE paist. When I pressurized the system, I had a few leaks, I posted the problem here. A few of the guys said to use the paist AND teflon tape. I broke apart the leaking bits, paisted and taped them, no more leaks! As I ran the boiler over the next weeks and months, leaks in the TFE paist only joints apeared one by one! The joints that I paisted AND taped were fine.

So, a I am re-doing all of my joints with paist and tape.
PicturesOfYourBoiler2 007.JPG

Yellow Flame

.JPG | 103.3KB | PicturesOfYourBoiler2 007.JPG
-Don

 
Boots
Member
Posts: 197
Joined: Thu. Nov. 10, 2011 4:38 pm
Location: Central PA
Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker KA-6
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Burnham SFB 101 (sold)

Post by Boots » Tue. Aug. 12, 2014 8:21 pm

StokerDon wrote:Boots,

So, a I am re-doing all of my joints with paist and tape.

-Don
:shock: I hope I don't have to go that far...

 
Lu47Dan
Member
Posts: 286
Joined: Wed. Jan. 29, 2014 1:42 pm
Location: N/W Pa. Meadville, Pa.
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Sears circulator air tight stove.
Other Heating: Crown 115,000 BTU oil fired boiler(house) Weil Mclain 150,000BTU oil fired boiler(Shop)

Post by Lu47Dan » Wed. Aug. 13, 2014 12:32 pm

Over tightening is copper into cast iron or steel fitting can cause leak to form, dissimilar metals can be driven in way too deep and than the softer material is either crushed or expended, causing it to leak at the threads.
Tape and dope is the best method for threaded pipe fitting for liquids and gases, with the exception being steam. Steam requires a sealant instead of a lubricant. Steam can eat away teflon and most other thread lubricants. Prematex #2 works well for steam.
For hot water heating systems I have went to Pro Dope
http://www.oatey.com/products/thread-sealants/pip ... s/pro-dope
With a base of teflon tape. Three to four wraps of tape and than cover with the pipe dope.
If the leaks are minor, than fire the system and see if the leaks seal themselves up.
Dan.

 
franco b
Site Moderator
Posts: 11416
Joined: Wed. Nov. 05, 2008 5:11 pm
Location: Kent CT
Hand Fed Coal Stove: V ermont Castings 2310, Franco Belge 262
Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood Modern Oak 114
Coal Size/Type: nut and pea

Post by franco b » Wed. Aug. 13, 2014 12:41 pm

Whatever happened to lamp wick? Wick plus dope on brass or copper, just dope on black pipe. No leaks. I tried Teflon when it first came out and everything leaked. I since understand you need many wraps, so not as good as the old way. It looks pretty though.

 
User avatar
windyhill4.2
Member
Posts: 6072
Joined: Fri. Nov. 22, 2013 2:17 pm
Location: Jonestown,Pa.17038
Stoker Coal Boiler: 1960 EFM520 installed in truck box
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Crane 404 with variable blower
Coal Size/Type: 404-nut, 520 rice ,anthracite for both

Post by windyhill4.2 » Wed. Aug. 13, 2014 1:20 pm

Black pipe with its thread leak issues or copper with its solder leak issues,which is worse ? This thread leak topic came in time for me to learn something on this issue b4 I do my own project. So teflon tape covered with pro-dope is the best thing to end the possibilities of thread leakage ?


Post Reply

Return to “Coal Bins, Chimneys, CO Detectors & Thermostats”