"Fixing" Rust on My Truck

qbwebb · Post by **qbwebb** » Mon. Oct. 06, 2014 8:27 am

I'm tackling this myself on my 04 silverado, mainly cab corners. Wish I had been more proactive with the LPS-3 or even used motor oil, I sprayed the underside with chassis saver 2 years ago, but wasn't really in tune with how bad cab corners and rockers are on these trucks.

Does can foam accelerate the rate of rusting because it will pick up and retain moisture? I know it is supposedly closed cell, but some people on automotive forums say its worse. How much more time does bonding in a patch panel get you vs. can foam and tiger hair?

Sting · Post by **Sting** » Mon. Oct. 06, 2014 10:49 am

it depends

once the vehicle begins to rust - the process will continue
faster ??? slower?? - no clear answer to that - it just it will

- all you can do is fix the evidence as it appears again and again till the vehicle is dust

Patch panels?? they have their own set of pros and cons - and they are not a final solution either. Rust will form in the welded or riveted overlap quicker than it will under Tiger hair - far quicker

Post by **coaledsweat** » Mon. Oct. 06, 2014 10:57 am

Sting wrote: Patch panels?? they have their own set of pros and cons - and they are not a final solution either. Rust will form in the welded or riveted overlap quicker than it will under Tiger hair - far quicker

Thinking about epoxying mine in for this reason.

SMITTY · Post by **SMITTY** » Mon. Oct. 06, 2014 1:45 pm

They've got some crazy bonding agents these days for collision repair on all these plastic/crap-metal wonders on the road today.

The gun itself is like $80 ... then the tubes of the stuff is way over $100 ... but it will bond so good you'll never weld a panel again! I heard that some of the earlier versions were TOO strong - in a collision they would defeat the crumple zones engineered into the car ...

Rick 386 · Post by **Rick 386** » Mon. Oct. 06, 2014 4:24 pm

SMITTY wrote:They've got some crazy bonding agents these days for collision repair on all these plastic/crap-metal wonders on the road today.

The gun itself is like $80 ... then the tubes of the stuff is way over $100 ... but it will bond so good you'll never weld a panel again! I heard that some of the earlier versions were TOO strong - in a collision they would defeat the crumple zones engineered into the car ...

Just got done "glueing" a roof panel onto a 2014 Chevy Equinox that suffered hail damage. And this is the recommended procedure from GM. Glue the sides and squeeze spot weld the windshield and rear gate flanges. But Smitty is a little high on the prices. My cost for the gun was $37.50 and the tubes of glue were $52.66 each. It took 1 1/2 tubes to do it. The glue/epoxy can only be put onto bare metal. That even means removing any galvanized coating. But they claim the glue will stop the corrosion. GM and a few other OEM recommend the Lord Fusor glues. As far as glueing on rust repair panels, what some guys do is dry fit the repair panels and then predrill some holes for 1/8" diameter screws to hold the panels in place while the glue dries. Then remove the screws and either glue or bondo over the holes.

A low cost alternative is to just screw or rivet the panels in place. Apply a bead of seam sealer over the joint and then apply sprayable bedliner material to the lower body giving it a 2 tone appearance. Plus the bedliner material will not chip as easily as paint will. And some bedliners are tintable to somewhat match whatever color you desire.

I'm in the process of redoing my 2000 F250 SD right now. We cut all of the rusted areas out of it. Then applied a weld through primer and welded the panels in place. After the welding, I shot some of this onto the backside. http://www.napaprolink.com/detail.aspx?R=MSRCPSB_0006419413
It is part of a system sold by the local NAPA. My fellow show owner up near Portland, ME swears by the stuff. Then I'm repainting the entire truck. While the bed is off, I'm going to POR 15 the frame.

As far as the glues strengthening the unibody......I'm not so sure about that. What I had heard initially was that the glues were too strong that they sort of shattered the bond when struck with a sharp blow. This would lead to the glued on panels flying off the car. Maybe that is why some panels are to be "weld-bonded" like I'm doing on the Equinox roof. I always go with the manufacturers recommendations. Keeps my ass out of liability trouble that way.

You guys got any questions, feel free to ask them. If I don't know the answer, I'm sure I can BS my way through it and you will never know it....

:bag:

Rick

ETA: No Sting, I will not laugh. That is another low cost alternative. I've used "Tiger Hair for quite a few years. Now here's a tip for you: when applying that stuff, cover it with regular way paper and you can smooth it out really nice requiring less sanding. And remember that Tiger Hair does contain chopped strands of fiberglass so any sanding will leave you itching. Most times, I leave that stuff a little lower than needed and finish off with regular bondo which is easier to sand. And donation checks are gladly accepted........

Sting · Post by **Sting** » Tue. Oct. 07, 2014 8:00 am

Rick 386 wrote: If I don't know the answer, I'm sure I can BS my way through it and you will never know it.... :bag:

Thats what I have been doing here since day one

buy you found me out