F350 Randomly Won't Start

 
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northernmainecoal
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Post by northernmainecoal » Tue. Aug. 12, 2014 6:35 am

I have an 01 f350 7.3L. For the last month or so it will turn over great but won't start on the first try. Usually on the 2nd or 3rd try it will start. This doesn't happen every time only occasionally. Last week it would not start over a period of several hours. I had it towed to the garage and they were going to look at it the next day. Well by the next day it fired right up and ran like a top every time they tried it. There were no codes on the computer. It ran for about a week and started first try everytime. Last night when I picked up the kids it took three tries to start it and now this morning it won't start at all. The guy at the garage had a guess that it might be the IPR valve but he didn't want to work on it until he knew for sure. I don't want to have it towed again just to have it start when they try and work on it. What would you do? Should I replace the IPR valve and see what happens? Is there a way I can test it at home? any suggestions would be appreciated.


 
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Post by coaledsweat » Tue. Aug. 12, 2014 11:00 am

Does it start just fine once running and warmed up? I had an '88 7.3 that the longer it sat, the harder it was to start. Think it was the lift pump getting tired, fuel rails would drain down and it didn't have the oomph to fill them very well.

 
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Post by northernmainecoal » Tue. Aug. 12, 2014 11:10 am

Not always, I drove it about 10 miles @ 60mph to get the kids after work. it was off for 20 minutes and it took 3 tries to get it to start and then it started quite hard

 
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Post by northernmainecoal » Tue. Aug. 12, 2014 11:16 am

I ended up having it towed again, fingers are crossed that the damn thing doesn't start for him this time

 
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Post by Boots » Tue. Aug. 12, 2014 11:45 am

Have you used any oil additives? The powerstroke injector pump uses the engine oil. If you use an oil additive that changes the consistency of the oil too much it will not start, especially when it gets colder outside. When was the last time you replaced fuel filters?

 
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Post by northernmainecoal » Tue. Aug. 12, 2014 12:07 pm

I haven't used any oil additives, I changed the oil this spring, Shell RotellaT 15-40. I also replaced the fuel filter just after it began starting a bit harder

 
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Post by coaledsweat » Tue. Aug. 12, 2014 9:48 pm

Do you get any smoke when it's cranking? White?


 
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Post by northernmainecoal » Wed. Aug. 13, 2014 7:48 am

No smoke that I have noticed. It got towed to the garage yesterday, they pulled it over to the shop hooked it to the computer and it started right up :mad: left it running for a bit and tried again and it started again. Finally after a few tries it decided not to start. Not sure what they have found yet but I do know that the oil pressure was only reading 4.9 instead of the 300-400 it should have been

 
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Post by coalnewbie » Wed. Aug. 13, 2014 7:57 am

Intermittent problems are a bitch on any vehicle. I had problems like this on a 2000 dually 7.3 and resolved them by cleaning up grounding straps to the engine. 50 problems went away like magic. Very aggravating. LOL. I also like a 4" Gale Banks exhaust but NOT the chip as it is not needed, a bulldog intake upgrade is essential too. The engine does not breath right under load. Originally the engine as designed was choked down by International at the last moment to take care of noise issues . Another EPA pkhk up. My mileage in pulling a 12,000# horse trailer appears to be so good I will not report it until I have checked more carefully but it is impressive. The display in the middle is useless so I will not report that. Old fart driving habits, East coast only no hills.

 
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Post by northernmainecoal » Wed. Aug. 13, 2014 9:59 am

It's very aggravating. I stopped in this morning, they still aren't sure what the problem is but the computer isn't showing any oil pressure or rpms when it won't start. He didn't seem to be sure what direction to head next...

 
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Post by coalnewbie » Wed. Aug. 13, 2014 10:20 am

When absolutely everything else has been tried and you are totally phked, listen to CN but only as a last resort and everything single thing else has failed. We have followed that protocol in this house for years. I have your truck and had similar weird problems and now it has been fine for about 18 months. Those faults always appear to be at the point of negative grounding. No start ...low volts .... gauges will not register, yep been there. Those suckers need a lot of amps to turn over and everything needs to be perfect. Years of use in N ME, salt, Rudolphs poop all over the road etc. It has to be an intermittent electrical fault these problems always are. I know how aggravating it must be sorry. Just trying to help here. As a dumb hose farmer I found this useful:

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1122421-battery ... saver.html

http://www.accuratediesel.com/shop/59.html

When garages are stumped get it out of there before they start replacing everything from the tail light forward. If it's a Ford dealer they have already screwed up many other things too... just bitter experience.

 
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Post by northernmainecoal » Wed. Aug. 13, 2014 11:53 am

I appreciate the advice, thankfully I did not take it to the ford garage the whole thing would have been replaced by now. I have worked some at tightening up grounds I have also replaced the positive battery cable that runs to several different places. Also one of the first things I tested when it wouldn't start was the glo plug relay and it tested fine. I should go see what he is showing for amps on the comp as you point out that could be the cause

 
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Post by coalnewbie » Wed. Aug. 13, 2014 12:37 pm

You are probably way ahead of a dumb horse farmer but Scangauge was good for me. I don't know about Scangauge II but the original was good model for me. It's $150 so be sure you have tried everything else first. Listen to the case studies later in the video. If the electrics are sound my guess the IPR. I apologize if I am teaching granny to suck eggs you seem pretty savvy to me. This gives you readings in real time which is the key but perhaps you were already using this. Again just trying to help.


 
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Post by Rob R. » Wed. Aug. 13, 2014 1:16 pm

Excellent advice on the grounding. Engine to frame, engine to body, body to frame, etc. Can't have too many, and the connections can't be too clean. I've been down that road with farm trucks, and even one Chevy Suburban. I figured it out by making a few temporary grounds with a set of jumper cables...it started right up when I ran the cable from the body to frame.

 
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Post by northernmainecoal » Wed. Aug. 13, 2014 1:36 pm

I appreciate the advice very much, I don't know *censored* about the truck just figuring things out as I go. If the mechanic hasn't made any progress soon I'll be doing lots of grounding tonight


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