Newbie With "Retort Peninsular No214"
- wsherrick
- Member
- Posts: 3744
- Joined: Wed. Jun. 18, 2008 6:04 am
- Location: High In The Poconos
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Glenwood Base Heater, Crawford Base Heater
- Baseburners & Antiques: Crawford Base Heater, Glenwood, Stanley Argand
- Coal Size/Type: Chestnut, Stove Size
I think your insurance guy is way over the top. You don't need a ventilated platform for that stove. That's simply absurd. A simple hearth pad will be more than adequate.
The National Standard for distance between a stove and a combustible wall is 3 feet.
With shielding this distance can be greatly reduced.
Another thing just for your information just in case it gets brought up. Stoves made before 1981 are exempt from the requirement to be UL listed. The guidelines for new stoves are just the same for old ones as far as clearances are concerned.
The National Standard for distance between a stove and a combustible wall is 3 feet.
With shielding this distance can be greatly reduced.
Another thing just for your information just in case it gets brought up. Stoves made before 1981 are exempt from the requirement to be UL listed. The guidelines for new stoves are just the same for old ones as far as clearances are concerned.
-
- Member
- Posts: 45
- Joined: Sun. Aug. 17, 2014 8:02 pm
- Location: Waupun wi. 53963
- Hand Fed Coal Furnace: Retort penisular no214
so I have read about and been suggested by members to add a refractory liner to my fire pot..... is this necessary? I cannot see any evidence that there ever was one nor any fire bricks. Also this stove has 2 fire pots, the lower, tapered one with dump/shaker grate in it, and the upper one is just cast iron round. Getting closer to assembly and just wanted everyone's 2 cents on the subject? Thanks in advance. TT.
- McGiever
- Member
- Posts: 10130
- Joined: Sun. May. 02, 2010 11:26 pm
- Location: Junction of PA-OH-WV
- Stoker Coal Boiler: AXEMAN-ANDERSON 130 "1959"
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: BUCKET A DAY water heater
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Warm Morning 414A
- Coal Size/Type: PEA,NUT,STOVE /ANTHRACITE
- Other Heating: Ground Source Heat Pump and some Solar
When stove sold new it could be w/o refractory lining...most times that was the case and stove was used to burn wood.
Using coal is where refractory linings comes in to play.
Using coal is where refractory linings comes in to play.
- Sunny Boy
- Member
- Posts: 25562
- Joined: Mon. Nov. 11, 2013 1:40 pm
- Location: Central NY
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Anthracite Industrial, domestic hot water heater
- Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood range 208, # 6 base heater, 2 Modern Oak 118.
- Coal Size/Type: Nuts !
- Other Heating: Oil &electric plenum furnace
If yours is the suspended firepot design - where the hot flue gases were channeled down the outside of the firepot to the base and then out of the stove - it probably didn't have a lining to keep heat in the pot, since the pot would be surrounded be it's own exhaust heat ???turbotom wrote:so I have read about and been suggested by members to add a refractory liner to my fire pot..... is this necessary? I cannot see any evidence that there ever was one nor any fire bricks. Also this stove has 2 fire pots, the lower, tapered one with dump/shaker grate in it, and the upper one is just cast iron round. Getting closer to assembly and just wanted everyone's 2 cents on the subject? Thanks in advance. TT.
Paul
- Sunny Boy
- Member
- Posts: 25562
- Joined: Mon. Nov. 11, 2013 1:40 pm
- Location: Central NY
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Anthracite Industrial, domestic hot water heater
- Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood range 208, # 6 base heater, 2 Modern Oak 118.
- Coal Size/Type: Nuts !
- Other Heating: Oil &electric plenum furnace
I can't tell from the pix, but If yours is the suspended firepot design - where the hot flue gases were channeled down the outside of the firepot to the base and then out of the stove - it probably didn't have a lining to keep heat in the pot, since the pot would be surrounded be it's own exhaust heat ???turbotom wrote:so I have read about and been suggested by members to add a refractory liner to my fire pot..... is this necessary? I cannot see any evidence that there ever was one nor any fire bricks. Also this stove has 2 fire pots, the lower, tapered one with dump/shaker grate in it, and the upper one is just cast iron round. Getting closer to assembly and just wanted everyone's 2 cents on the subject? Thanks in advance. TT.
If that's not the case, then yes, a lining would help the coal burn more completely.
Paul
-
- Member
- Posts: 45
- Joined: Sun. Aug. 17, 2014 8:02 pm
- Location: Waupun wi. 53963
- Hand Fed Coal Furnace: Retort penisular no214
It's not a baseburner style and I don't believe it's a suspended firepot. I guess I will look into making one?? Ugh big newbie here! Here it is mocked up on the bench. The other firepot sits inside the barrel and comes up close to the loading door. Damn phone sideways pictures
Attachments
- wsherrick
- Member
- Posts: 3744
- Joined: Wed. Jun. 18, 2008 6:04 am
- Location: High In The Poconos
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Glenwood Base Heater, Crawford Base Heater
- Baseburners & Antiques: Crawford Base Heater, Glenwood, Stanley Argand
- Coal Size/Type: Chestnut, Stove Size
No the stove has a standard two piece fire pot. You don't have to line the fire pot if you don't want to, however; I highly recommend that you do. The fire pot will last forever and risk of cracking it or warping it will be eliminated.
A lined fire pot also helps the coal to burn better as the refractory lining helps to maintain a higher and more consistent fire bed temperature.
The choice is yours.
That fire pot can be lined in 20 minutes for little cost.
A lined fire pot also helps the coal to burn better as the refractory lining helps to maintain a higher and more consistent fire bed temperature.
The choice is yours.
That fire pot can be lined in 20 minutes for little cost.
-
- Member
- Posts: 45
- Joined: Sun. Aug. 17, 2014 8:02 pm
- Location: Waupun wi. 53963
- Hand Fed Coal Furnace: Retort penisular no214
They sell refractory mortar at the hardware store. Right next to the stove cement. Red devil brand. Cast able or formable. I will go ahead with the liner then! Thanks for all the advice!!
- warminmn
- Member
- Posts: 8110
- Joined: Tue. Feb. 08, 2011 5:59 pm
- Location: Land of 11,842 lakes
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Chubby Junior, Efel Nestor Martin, Riteway 37
- Coal Size/Type: nut and stove anthracite, lignite
- Other Heating: Wood and wear a wool shirt
Theres some good posts on this forum on how to do it. The one time I did it, I used a cardboard cement form I bought from a building center store, fit it in there up to the bottom of the door, and poured the stuff around the outside of it. Let it cure for a few days, then start a very small fire the first couple times. You don't need to remove the cardboard as it will burn off. Some here have done it a lot of times so ask questions instead of guessing.
No two cardboards seem to be the same size so use a tape measure on them if that is the type of form you use for a form.
No two cardboards seem to be the same size so use a tape measure on them if that is the type of form you use for a form.
-
- Member
- Posts: 45
- Joined: Sun. Aug. 17, 2014 8:02 pm
- Location: Waupun wi. 53963
- Hand Fed Coal Furnace: Retort penisular no214
I suppose I will need to make sure that the liner doesn't go down too far as to make it impossible to remove the grate for service. im going to do some more research for sure. After reading on these forums and seeing as how this stove has the top draft control (under the finial), with firepot feed pipe attached, I am pretty excited to try bit coal in this beast. I know anthracite is king, but its 310$ a ton for me, and bituminous is only 160$ (bulk). I have a couple cords of wood too but is mainly ash, maple, and elm.
-
- Member
- Posts: 45
- Joined: Sun. Aug. 17, 2014 8:02 pm
- Location: Waupun wi. 53963
- Hand Fed Coal Furnace: Retort penisular no214
I'm having trouble finding an oval
To round adapter for this stove,
It's 7 5/8" by 3 5/8 on the outsides of the oval.
I tried squishing a piece of 6" stove pipe to fit over it
And I can't get it to fit. I figure 7" pipe will be too large??
To round adapter for this stove,
It's 7 5/8" by 3 5/8 on the outsides of the oval.
I tried squishing a piece of 6" stove pipe to fit over it
And I can't get it to fit. I figure 7" pipe will be too large??
-
- Site Moderator
- Posts: 11416
- Joined: Wed. Nov. 05, 2008 5:11 pm
- Location: Kent CT
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: V ermont Castings 2310, Franco Belge 262
- Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood Modern Oak 114
- Coal Size/Type: nut and pea
Stretch a piece of string around it and then measure the length of the string.turbotom wrote:I'm having trouble finding an oval
To round adapter for this stove,
It's 7 5/8" by 3 5/8 on the outsides of the oval.
I tried squishing a piece of 6" stove pipe to fit over it
And I can't get it to fit. I figure 7" pipe will be too large??
Multiply various pipe diameters by 3.1416 to find closest circumference. You might have to hammer the folded part of the pipe somewhat to get to fit. Old pipe was riveted and slightly larger.
-
- Member
- Posts: 45
- Joined: Sun. Aug. 17, 2014 8:02 pm
- Location: Waupun wi. 53963
- Hand Fed Coal Furnace: Retort penisular no214
Thank you I will do that. 6" pipe seemed a bit
Too small. My small potbelly in the garage has an oval
As well and I was able to get 6" to fit it with some effort.
I'm putting in a hart and Cooley 7" stainless chimney
I purchased used on Craigslist for 250$!! Getting excited!!
Too small. My small potbelly in the garage has an oval
As well and I was able to get 6" to fit it with some effort.
I'm putting in a hart and Cooley 7" stainless chimney
I purchased used on Craigslist for 250$!! Getting excited!!
-
- Member
- Posts: 45
- Joined: Sun. Aug. 17, 2014 8:02 pm
- Location: Waupun wi. 53963
- Hand Fed Coal Furnace: Retort penisular no214
ok the 6" pipe did ovalize and fit my stove. but I am running a 7" chimney as it was such a deal I could not pass it up. I have another question. The front loading door on my stove is 3 layers, when I took it apart there was brass screen behind the draft opening, and it seemed to be inbetween the framework for all windows as well, hard to tell tho, as is was crumbly. The mica looks to have been 4 layers thick?? my question is, should the screen only go behind the draft opening? or behind the mica too? also should I use stove cement to bond it all together or something different? this is pretty much all I have left to do with the stove, (besides take it in the house and put it in use) thanks ahead of time again.