Newbie With "Retort Peninsular No214"

 
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wsherrick
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Post by wsherrick » Fri. Sep. 12, 2014 3:19 pm

I think your insurance guy is way over the top. You don't need a ventilated platform for that stove. That's simply absurd. A simple hearth pad will be more than adequate.
The National Standard for distance between a stove and a combustible wall is 3 feet.
With shielding this distance can be greatly reduced.
Another thing just for your information just in case it gets brought up. Stoves made before 1981 are exempt from the requirement to be UL listed. The guidelines for new stoves are just the same for old ones as far as clearances are concerned.


 
turbotom
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Hand Fed Coal Furnace: Retort penisular no214

Post by turbotom » Mon. Sep. 15, 2014 6:07 pm

so I have read about and been suggested by members to add a refractory liner to my fire pot..... is this necessary? I cannot see any evidence that there ever was one nor any fire bricks. Also this stove has 2 fire pots, the lower, tapered one with dump/shaker grate in it, and the upper one is just cast iron round. Getting closer to assembly and just wanted everyone's 2 cents on the subject? Thanks in advance. TT.

 
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Post by McGiever » Mon. Sep. 15, 2014 8:23 pm

When stove sold new it could be w/o refractory lining...most times that was the case and stove was used to burn wood.
Using coal is where refractory linings comes in to play.

 
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Sunny Boy
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Post by Sunny Boy » Mon. Sep. 15, 2014 8:45 pm

turbotom wrote:so I have read about and been suggested by members to add a refractory liner to my fire pot..... is this necessary? I cannot see any evidence that there ever was one nor any fire bricks. Also this stove has 2 fire pots, the lower, tapered one with dump/shaker grate in it, and the upper one is just cast iron round. Getting closer to assembly and just wanted everyone's 2 cents on the subject? Thanks in advance. TT.
If yours is the suspended firepot design - where the hot flue gases were channeled down the outside of the firepot to the base and then out of the stove - it probably didn't have a lining to keep heat in the pot, since the pot would be surrounded be it's own exhaust heat ???

Paul

 
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Sunny Boy
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Post by Sunny Boy » Mon. Sep. 15, 2014 8:48 pm

turbotom wrote:so I have read about and been suggested by members to add a refractory liner to my fire pot..... is this necessary? I cannot see any evidence that there ever was one nor any fire bricks. Also this stove has 2 fire pots, the lower, tapered one with dump/shaker grate in it, and the upper one is just cast iron round. Getting closer to assembly and just wanted everyone's 2 cents on the subject? Thanks in advance. TT.
I can't tell from the pix, but If yours is the suspended firepot design - where the hot flue gases were channeled down the outside of the firepot to the base and then out of the stove - it probably didn't have a lining to keep heat in the pot, since the pot would be surrounded be it's own exhaust heat ???

If that's not the case, then yes, a lining would help the coal burn more completely.

Paul

 
turbotom
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Hand Fed Coal Furnace: Retort penisular no214

Post by turbotom » Mon. Sep. 15, 2014 11:41 pm

It's not a baseburner style and I don't believe it's a suspended firepot. I guess I will look into making one?? Ugh big newbie here! Here it is mocked up on the bench. The other firepot sits inside the barrel and comes up close to the loading door. Damn phone sideways pictures

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wsherrick
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Post by wsherrick » Tue. Sep. 16, 2014 12:14 am

No the stove has a standard two piece fire pot. You don't have to line the fire pot if you don't want to, however; I highly recommend that you do. The fire pot will last forever and risk of cracking it or warping it will be eliminated.
A lined fire pot also helps the coal to burn better as the refractory lining helps to maintain a higher and more consistent fire bed temperature.
The choice is yours.
That fire pot can be lined in 20 minutes for little cost.


 
turbotom
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Hand Fed Coal Furnace: Retort penisular no214

Post by turbotom » Tue. Sep. 16, 2014 12:20 am

They sell refractory mortar at the hardware store. Right next to the stove cement. Red devil brand. Cast able or formable. I will go ahead with the liner then! Thanks for all the advice!!

 
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Post by warminmn » Tue. Sep. 16, 2014 8:57 am

Theres some good posts on this forum on how to do it. The one time I did it, I used a cardboard cement form I bought from a building center store, fit it in there up to the bottom of the door, and poured the stuff around the outside of it. Let it cure for a few days, then start a very small fire the first couple times. You don't need to remove the cardboard as it will burn off. Some here have done it a lot of times so ask questions instead of guessing.

No two cardboards seem to be the same size so use a tape measure on them if that is the type of form you use for a form.

 
turbotom
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Hand Fed Coal Furnace: Retort penisular no214

Post by turbotom » Tue. Sep. 16, 2014 2:04 pm

I suppose I will need to make sure that the liner doesn't go down too far as to make it impossible to remove the grate for service. im going to do some more research for sure. After reading on these forums and seeing as how this stove has the top draft control (under the finial), with firepot feed pipe attached, I am pretty excited to try bit coal in this beast. I know anthracite is king, but its 310$ a ton for me, and bituminous is only 160$ (bulk). I have a couple cords of wood too but is mainly ash, maple, and elm.

 
turbotom
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Hand Fed Coal Furnace: Retort penisular no214

Post by turbotom » Tue. Sep. 16, 2014 11:10 pm

More progress, still mocking things up

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turbotom
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Hand Fed Coal Furnace: Retort penisular no214

Post by turbotom » Sun. Sep. 28, 2014 6:42 pm

I'm having trouble finding an oval
To round adapter for this stove,
It's 7 5/8" by 3 5/8 on the outsides of the oval.
I tried squishing a piece of 6" stove pipe to fit over it
And I can't get it to fit. I figure 7" pipe will be too large??

 
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Post by franco b » Sun. Sep. 28, 2014 6:53 pm

turbotom wrote:I'm having trouble finding an oval
To round adapter for this stove,
It's 7 5/8" by 3 5/8 on the outsides of the oval.
I tried squishing a piece of 6" stove pipe to fit over it
And I can't get it to fit. I figure 7" pipe will be too large??
Stretch a piece of string around it and then measure the length of the string.
Multiply various pipe diameters by 3.1416 to find closest circumference. You might have to hammer the folded part of the pipe somewhat to get to fit. Old pipe was riveted and slightly larger.

 
turbotom
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Hand Fed Coal Furnace: Retort penisular no214

Post by turbotom » Sun. Sep. 28, 2014 7:16 pm

Thank you I will do that. 6" pipe seemed a bit
Too small. My small potbelly in the garage has an oval
As well and I was able to get 6" to fit it with some effort.
I'm putting in a hart and Cooley 7" stainless chimney
I purchased used on Craigslist for 250$!! Getting excited!!

 
turbotom
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Hand Fed Coal Furnace: Retort penisular no214

Post by turbotom » Fri. Oct. 10, 2014 2:51 pm

ok the 6" pipe did ovalize and fit my stove. but I am running a 7" chimney as it was such a deal I could not pass it up. I have another question. The front loading door on my stove is 3 layers, when I took it apart there was brass screen behind the draft opening, and it seemed to be inbetween the framework for all windows as well, hard to tell tho, as is was crumbly. The mica looks to have been 4 layers thick?? my question is, should the screen only go behind the draft opening? or behind the mica too? also should I use stove cement to bond it all together or something different? this is pretty much all I have left to do with the stove, (besides take it in the house and put it in use) thanks ahead of time again.


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