Getting Screws Out of Cast Iron Doors

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WNYRob
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Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Keystoker Koker controlled with CoalTrol

Post by WNYRob » Mon. Aug. 25, 2014 8:13 am

I know this has been discussed periodically, but I thought I would share my experiences to help someone in the future. I had a cracked window in my koker that I replaced this weekend. I tried the usual hitting the screw head (with and w/o screw driver in it) and soaking it with penetrating oil (I didn't try heating the screws). Those didn't work, the screws were still froze up pretty good. What finally did the trick was taking a putty knife and using it (w/hammer) to hit the side of the screw heads a few times each. The side jolt must have been enough to break the bond between the threads and the door. I got 5 out of 6 screws out. Obviously I didn't hit the screws hard enough to break the heads off, but that is something you just have to watch. I was surprised, the threads on the screws didn't have any corrosion on them, they looked like new.

I am going to replace the screws with thumb screws, that have the same thread pattern. This way I won't have to mess around with trying not to strip the screws out in the future. It probably wouldn't hurt to loosen and tighten them at the end of each season either, so they hopefully aren't seized up after another 3 or 4 years. Oh, and those of you with kokers, last year I replaced the retention screw on the combustion blower with a thumb screw. It is a lot easier to unscrew without trying to get a screw driver in the tight space under the stoker motor.

 
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whistlenut
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Post by whistlenut » Mon. Aug. 25, 2014 8:35 am

Rob, those thumb screws are probably only grade 2 strength, so I'd source some Allen headed grade 5 or 8's and still anti-seize the best you can. Hot environment, but you will need something of a better grade to satisfy the removal long term.

 
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freetown fred
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Post by freetown fred » Mon. Aug. 25, 2014 8:38 am

Don't forget anti-seize like WN said when you put the new bolts in--thumb screws/hex-bolts/allen bolts, whichever --seized is seized

 
top top
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Post by top top » Mon. Aug. 25, 2014 9:27 am

WNYRob wrote:.........................What finally did the trick was taking a putty knife and using it (w/hammer) to hit the side of the screw heads a few times each. The side jolt must have been enough to break the bond between the threads and the door. I got 5 out of 6 screws out. Obviously I didn't hit the screws hard enough to break the heads off, but that is something you just have to watch.................................
You need to get a manual impact driver, be sure it isn't imported junk made from soft steel. I have one I bought nearly 50 years ago that looks exactly like this one, right down to the blue metal carry case. Using it is very easy, just select the correct bit, be sure the driver is set for the correct direction, strike it with a hammer. You will be amazed how great it works, with less chance of something going wrong.

http://www.amazon.com/Pro-Grade-19620-2-Inch-Driv ... act+driver

I also have a 3 piece tool set called "screw out" (not the same as an easy out) that works great on soft screws, like brass. I needed it when working on the carb for my backup generator about 10 years ago, and have used it several times since. It requires a variable speed reversible drill to use it. Basically it grabs the top of the damaged screw and turns it out.

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-3-pc-screw-out-174 ... 952154000P


 
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blrman07
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Post by blrman07 » Mon. Aug. 25, 2014 10:22 am

..........................HIGH TEMPERATURE ANTI-SEIZE................

Nuff Said

Rev. Larry
New Beginning Church
Ashland Pa.

 
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Sunny Boy
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Post by Sunny Boy » Mon. Aug. 25, 2014 10:36 am

blrman07 wrote:..........................HIGH TEMPERATURE ANTI-SEIZE................

Nuff Said

Rev. Larry
New Beginning Church
Ashland Pa.
Yes !!!! And not all anti-seize are equal. Having used several brands under high temp conditions with different metals in contact, the one I find that holds up the best in high heat situations is Bostik Never-seez. Their regular grade is excellent. Their nickel grade is even better, but it's expensive overkill for a stove door.
http://www.bostik-us.com/market-products/product- ... #regulargr

Paul

 
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whistlenut
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Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Franks,Itasca 415,Jensen, NYer 130,Van Wert
Hot Air Coal Stoker Furnace: Alaska, EFM, Keystoker, Yellow Flame
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Hand Fed Coal Furnace: Ford, Jensen, NYer, Van Wert,
Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwoods
Coal Size/Type: Barley, Buck, Rice ,Nut, Stove
Other Heating: Oil HWBB

Post by whistlenut » Mon. Aug. 25, 2014 11:45 am

I should have mentionedto buy the best high heat products.....and I use Bostik for all the other needs as well. No leaks with the pipe dope...sticky stuff. Like a politicians hands on your wallet.....

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