Keystoker 90 Install
Welcome to the forum!!
Looks great!! I really like your walls! Do you have your CO monitors in place?? Also I would recommend getting a manometer and also a couple temp gauges or probes. It makes it easier to 'dial' in efficiencies and there is nothing wrong with a few more toys !
By the way, be ready for a little 'smoke off' during the initial burn or two. And isn't that sticker on the flue pipe driving you crazy?!?!?!?!
Looks great!! I really like your walls! Do you have your CO monitors in place?? Also I would recommend getting a manometer and also a couple temp gauges or probes. It makes it easier to 'dial' in efficiencies and there is nothing wrong with a few more toys !
By the way, be ready for a little 'smoke off' during the initial burn or two. And isn't that sticker on the flue pipe driving you crazy?!?!?!?!
- 2001Sierra
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It got into the 40s this weekend and I figured I would fire it up and cure the paint.
I am a long time wood burner, so I knew this would take some getting used to, but I struggled. I got it lit and all seemed good, then the fire climbed up the grate pretty high almost to the hopper. I raked it out away and adjusted for more feed, it happened again and shut it off. any tips? I also noticed the stove would get hot enough for the blower to kick on, but the shut back off after a few min after the blower cooled the unit.
I am a long time wood burner, so I knew this would take some getting used to, but I struggled. I got it lit and all seemed good, then the fire climbed up the grate pretty high almost to the hopper. I raked it out away and adjusted for more feed, it happened again and shut it off. any tips? I also noticed the stove would get hot enough for the blower to kick on, but the shut back off after a few min after the blower cooled the unit.
- McGiever
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Do you have a manometer to know draft values?
Do you use either a barometer or MPD?
But generally if the draft is proper (see above questions) the fire moving up the grate doesn't cross the part of the grate w/o any air holes.
So it will climb up the grate, but should stop short of hopper when it loses the air supply from the grate holes.
Do you use either a barometer or MPD?
But generally if the draft is proper (see above questions) the fire moving up the grate doesn't cross the part of the grate w/o any air holes.
So it will climb up the grate, but should stop short of hopper when it loses the air supply from the grate holes.
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I have not checked the draft yet. I set the baro at .04, I was told this is a good starting point. Chimney is 6" steel mostly tripple wall, except what is in the room, about 20' total and does clear the roof ridge.
- McGiever
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That doesn't sound bad then.
If you knew had observed closely, and it didn't cross the grate holes, perhaps it would of been okay.
If you knew had observed closely, and it didn't cross the grate holes, perhaps it would of been okay.
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it was up very far, far enough that I had to use a coal shovel to get into where I couldn't see and pull out red embers.
My thoughts are that the feed adjustment was set too low, and the fire found fuel up high. But I am just a wood burner so what do I know.
My thoughts are that the feed adjustment was set too low, and the fire found fuel up high. But I am just a wood burner so what do I know.
- McGiever
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- Coal Size/Type: PEA,NUT,STOVE /ANTHRACITE
- Other Heating: Ground Source Heat Pump and some Solar
If it crossed the air holes then something is amiss.Olllotj wrote:it was up very far, far enough that I had to use a coal shovel to get into where I couldn't see and pull out red embers.
My thoughts are that the feed adjustment was set too low, and the fire found fuel up high. But I am just a wood burner so what do I know.
How much coal was in the hopper...full, half or near empty?
Hopper gasketed/sealed to the stoker? No air leaks?
Can you adjust how much combustion air gets blown in? Maybe needs trimmed back some...can be pressurizing the fire box some?
Sounds like excess air was being pulled from/through hopper...you need to find out if, why and make corrections.
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The only time I came close to a hopper fire was in that Keystoker model that I use today. They have a patent on that design and a flat road is supposed to make that impossible but I found out how can and does happen. At the back of the heavy iron plate (with the holes) is supposed to be a flat gasket to make an airtight seal. If you don't install that properly the air comes out of the rear end and the fire moves back into the hopper and that can be very dangerous. The whole plate needs to be resealed every seasonal start up and you need to follow Keystokers instructions. Don't be upset as once properly set up it's a great stove.
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Hopper half full.
I bolted the hopper on the the stove, and did not check into any seals in between the two, as the keystoker manual simply states, "mount the hopper"
Maybe this is not sealing and allowing air from between the hopper and grate. http://keystoker.com/manuals/2012/90K-105K-Stoves ... mostat.pdf
I bolted the hopper on the the stove, and did not check into any seals in between the two, as the keystoker manual simply states, "mount the hopper"
Maybe this is not sealing and allowing air from between the hopper and grate. http://keystoker.com/manuals/2012/90K-105K-Stoves ... mostat.pdf