Dwyer Model 25 or Dwyer Magnehelic 2000-00?

 
titleist1
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Post by titleist1 » Fri. Oct. 17, 2014 6:41 pm

Lightning wrote:uhhh, why wouldn't it be exact?
Well for one thing, did you calibrate that high tech bubble level before hanging it on the wall?

And secondly, which part of the curve that I can see at the end of my red liquid do I go by?

Thirdly....any dirt in either port?

You would have similar issues with the magnehelic....such as what altitude was McGeivers gauge calibrated at when that guy signed his name compared with where you are running?

Please don't think I am looking for a better solution, as I mentioned I am fine with the accuracy and repeatability of these gauges for what we are using them for.


 
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windyhill4.2
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Post by windyhill4.2 » Fri. Oct. 17, 2014 7:14 pm

So, what it comes down to is NOTHING is sure. :shock: :fear: :notsure: :what: :?

 
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lsayre
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Post by lsayre » Fri. Oct. 17, 2014 7:28 pm

windyhill4.2 wrote:So, what it comes down to is NOTHING is sure. :shock: :fear: :notsure: :what: :?
It comes down to personal preference and/or price.

One thing I would like to ask the magnehelic users is how well damped they are. I.E., do they twitch instantly at every little change in draft, or is there some level of damping present to smooth them out a tad?

My guess is that they are faster to respond than the Mark II, and that they have some level of damping so the needle isn't doing the Saint Vitus Dance.
Last edited by lsayre on Fri. Oct. 17, 2014 7:34 pm, edited 1 time in total.

 
titleist1
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Post by titleist1 » Fri. Oct. 17, 2014 7:33 pm

windyhill4.2 wrote:So, what it comes down to is NOTHING is sure.
Everything is relative!!!!! :bag:

 
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Post by McGiever » Fri. Oct. 17, 2014 7:35 pm

Magnehelics are not bellows connected, they are connected through a magnetic field...hence magnehelic.

Did anyone take the time to read this earlier?
McGiever wrote:
What is a Magnehelic Gauge?

The simplest magnahelic gauge definition is that it’s an instrument used to measure pressure. It is mainly used in measuring positive or negative pressure (also known as vacuum); it also used to get the difference in pressures between two separate locations.

The magnahelic differential pressure gauge, or just magnahelic gauge for short, is the pressure gauge developed by Dwyer that can accurately measure pressure and pressure differences. In fact, the magnahelic gauge has set the industry standard in pressure gauges, and through the years Dwyer has been consistently raising the bar a little higher. Dwyer, ever since the company got started in 1931, has always been the industry front runner when it comes to controls and instrumentation technology.

Dwyer Magnehelic Gauge Specifications

Housing – The outer casing of the magnehelic differential pressure gauge is made of tough, die-cast aluminum, and powder-coated gray. It can withstand up to 168 hours straight exposure to salt water spray without any noticeable corrosion.

Accuracy – The magnehelic gauge can measure pressure difference at an outstanding accuracy of just plus or minus 2% at full scale.

Operating temperature – Magnehelic pressure gauges can operate efficiently between 20 degrees to 140 degrees Fahrenheit without losing accuracy, although this is just for the standard models. There are lower temperature models available upon request.

What Makes the Magnehelic Gauge Different from other Pressure Gauges

The thing that makes these gauges the best is that they incorporate the magnehelic principle developed by Dwyer. This principle gets rid of the problems that plague most of the other pressure gauges, problems like excessive wear, backlash, and toxicity. This results in a high-quality, durable, and accurate gauge.

Less Wear and Tear – The magnehelic principle is the patented method of transmitting the effects that air pressure has on a thin diaphragm to the indicator needle using only a magnetic linkage. This is the main difference that magnehelic differential pressure gauges have over the other gauges that use mechanical means to transmit the readings. This lack of physical contact between the parts mean that there is no wear inside the system that can affect the instrument’s accuracy in any way.

Fluid-less Design – There are numerous advantages to using Magnehelic gauge. Because there is no fluid present inside the instrument, the problems regarding accuracy loss due to evaporation or freezing is thereby eliminated. It also poses no risk of toxic contamination if the gauge gets damaged. The Magnehelic principle used in making these gauges also ensure a drift-free pointer movement that is not affected whatsoever by inertia.

High Durability – A magnehelic pressure gauge is extremely tough as well, considering the fact that it is a highly-sensitive measuring instrument. It can resist a respectable amount of shock and vibration, it is also relatively unharmed even when subjected to pressure surges of up to 15 psi, it is also unaffected by temperature fluctuations of up to 20 to 140 degrees Fahrenheit.

Easy Calibration and Installation – It is also a lot easier to calibrate a Dwyer Magnehelic gauge. The hoses just need to get disconnected and using the accessible adjusting screw on the cover, make the necessary adjustments until the needle points at zero. Installation is also a breeze, since the gauge is unaffected by gravity there is no need to install it at a level position.

Affordability – Despite being the best differential pressure gauge available in the market, the Dwyer Magnehelic gauge is very affordable. Though it employs cutting-edge technology to give users the most accurate pressure reading, it is still one of the most cost-effective instruments sold right now. Starting at just $55, these gauges certainly give a lot more value for money.

 
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lsayre
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Post by lsayre » Fri. Oct. 17, 2014 7:44 pm

Ah! The statement
drift-free pointer movement that is not affected whatsoever by inertia
answers my question.

 
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Post by Lightning » Fri. Oct. 17, 2014 7:57 pm

lsayre wrote:Ah! The statement
drift-free pointer movement that is not affected whatsoever by inertia
answers my question.
So, I would take that as its kinda twitchy.. Is that the case?


 
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Post by McGiever » Fri. Oct. 17, 2014 8:01 pm

No. it is very smooth and deliberate.

 
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Lightning
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Post by Lightning » Fri. Oct. 17, 2014 8:06 pm

titleist1 wrote:Well for one thing, did you calibrate that high tech bubble level before hanging it on the wall?
No.. I assumed its already calibrated..
titleist1 wrote:And secondly, which part of the curve that I can see at the end of my red liquid do I go by?
Doesn't matter as long as you use the same reference that its zeroed at.
titleist1 wrote:Thirdly....any dirt in either port?
I have to clean the probe in the pipe to keep fly ash out. Other than that I don't think its a problem.

Hey... I noticed when I look at a needle on a dial with my right eye it shows a different reading than when I look at it with my left.. :shock: :? :lol: Sorry, just pickin...
McGiever wrote:No. it is very smooth and deliberate.
Cool.. :) Must be due to needle using magnets instead of being directly connected.

 
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Post by windyhill4.2 » Thu. Oct. 23, 2014 9:32 am

So, where is a good place to buy a Magnehelic ? Which one is the right one to get ,there are so many listed on Amazon,hard to know if I am looking at the right one or not. Does everything come with it that is needed to hook up or is there a separate kit to purchase ? I need to do something on this issue soon or just buy new baro's with the scale on them.

 
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Post by 07roadstar » Thu. Oct. 23, 2014 9:54 am

This is where I got mine for $45.00 and they both work very well. I use 1 for the coal stove and the other for the oil furnace.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/131201637289?ru=http%3A%2 ... 26_rdc%3D1

 
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Post by McGiever » Thu. Oct. 23, 2014 9:31 pm

That's the right model and a good price for 2 of them.
If you didn't want 2 then maybe it's a little too high priced, unless you could sell the second one to recoup the extra expense ;) .

 
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Post by KingCoal » Sat. Oct. 25, 2014 8:53 pm

a little reminder for all us Dwyer 25 users.

make sure you level and zero your gauge for the start of the season.

i use the units sight glass level, then check that with a larger spirit level to be sure.

then, take your tubes off and zero your oil. now zero may or may not BE zero so this is what I do.

take the hose from the flue and put it on the "high" side spout, read where is rests, now put the hose on the "low" side spout. i'll bet it doesn't show the same spot but, it should.

so now turn the knob and check back and forth until you are getting the same reading on both sides of the "0"

now your gauge is zero'd.

steve

 
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Post by windyhill4.2 » Wed. Oct. 29, 2014 9:07 pm

07roadstar .., thanks for the tip on where to purchase the magnehelic.When I noticed it was Moses B. Glick & I see their ad in the Lancaster Farmer every week ,i decided to call them direct. Got 2 magnehelic's shipped here for $51.00

 
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Post by Scottscoaled » Thu. Oct. 30, 2014 8:17 am

There is also a kit that contains a adapter plate, a length of aluminum tubing, connecters, valves, and duct probes to get to make sure your Magnehelic is mounted and accessorized for a professional look. You can also find them on Ebay. It is called an A-605 air filter accessory package.


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