Koker 160 Duct Work Help.

newman116 · Post by **newman116** » Fri. Oct. 03, 2014 8:09 pm

After putting many hours into this Koker 160 and not getting the results I expected with the current set up, I've resigned myself to the fact that I need someone with some expertise. Does anyone know of a coal furnace technician with experience with the Koker 160 that can accurately diagnose my duct work issue . I live in north west NJ. about 50 minutes east of the Deleware Water Gap. Thanks

Grace and Peace,

Jon

2001Sierra · Post by **2001Sierra** » Fri. Oct. 03, 2014 9:38 pm

I am no expert but many others here are. Any sketches or pictures to help us troubleshoot your issues. Exactly what are your issues?

newman116 · Post by **newman116** » Fri. Oct. 03, 2014 10:02 pm

The main issue is I'm not getting enough cfm through my duct work. I had a furnace guy build a plenum for the top of the koker and tie it in directly in line to my main trunk line. He also put the necessary dampers to prevent any loops in the system but still nearly no air. My second issue is that I have to set the feed settng at its highest and it barely generates any heat at the end boots. The furnace itself is plenty hot with a nice fire with 10 inch flames so I know the fire is as it should be. I rebuilt it from the bottom up. All new motors and the piping is new too. ( direct vent). There are no returns because the basement is quite large and supplies enough air. Thanks ill post some pics.

2001Sierra · Post by **2001Sierra** » Fri. Oct. 03, 2014 10:05 pm

Is it possible you are at negative pressure with return air at the stove? Typically return air is twice the size of supply air.

newman116 · Post by **newman116** » Fri. Oct. 03, 2014 10:21 pm

I don't have any returns tied into the furnace. Its is pulling it's air from the basement which is large, approximately 40x30...so I don't think that is the problem.
Thanks though.

michaelanthony · Post by **michaelanthony** » Fri. Oct. 03, 2014 10:48 pm

newman116 wrote:I don't have any returns tied into the furnace. Its is pulling it's air from the basement which is large, approximately 40x30...so I don't think that is the problem. Thanks though.

Air has mass and volume and the upstairs is pressurized...open all your windows and the warm air come out faster, then open a window in the basement to make up the air going north. I'm no heating tech but I blow very warm air from a basement stove into the return air ducts in my warm air oil furnace plenum this way if the furnace ever comes on during the fall the air is preheated and the furnace shuts down rather quickly saving oil. If it 30 plus out the furnace never comes on, below 30 I light the living room stove only. Imagine a balloon filled with air now try to blow more air into it

You must make room for the heated air by allowing the cooler into the basement. HVAC techs have devices that measure the air going in both directions and this is how they balance a system. Your furnace blower has been working it's AUSS off trying to keep you warm.

2001Sierra wrote:Is it possible you are at negative pressure with return air at the stove? Typically return air is twice the size of supply air.

My return ducts are twice as large and that is why I push coal heated air through them, it's a win win

newman116 · Post by **newman116** » Sun. Oct. 05, 2014 5:22 pm

Yes,
I understand what you are saying and that makes sense. I will open a window in the basement as well as one upstairs and see what kind of effect it has. Thanks again for your insight and I will post the results.

McGiever · Post by **McGiever** » Sun. Oct. 05, 2014 6:04 pm

We need good pictures!!!

What does your duct man say about all his work done for this?

Tell us about the blower situation involved in all this.
Factory original?
New motor?
New blower and motor?

Already say no return duct used...So you want this Koker to heat DOUBLE or MORE square footage by pulling air off the basement floor instead of off the first floor returns?

There are so many things wrong here...but let's find out why too little cfm's out first.

What are the plenum sizes?

newman116 · Post by **newman116** » Sun. Oct. 05, 2014 10:19 pm

Pictures to follow. Hopefully tomorrow.
All new blowers/motors. Direct vent exhaust new also.
Duct tech is not familiar with coal furnaces, not to many here in NJ who work with coal. however his tin work is very good. Plenum is the 11x19 and about 24" inches high and then ties directly into the main trunk line.

Prior to installing, I spoke to keystoker several times and was advised that hookng up the returns wouldn't be necessary becasuse my basement is 1200 sq. Feet. Thanks again for all the input. Pictures to follow. Is I possible that the koker 160 is to small to heat a 3000 sq. Foot colomial house. I was advised I could easily do 4k? Thanks again.

McGiever · Post by **McGiever** » Mon. Oct. 06, 2014 5:52 am

3000 sq ft plus the 1200 sq ft basement?

Basement finished and insulated?

Heating appliances are best rated for btu/hr. output...not for a sq. ft. of area.

Heat loss of any 2 similar size structure can and will vary from one to the next, due to the many different details of construction, such as insulation, infiltration, window and door quanities and qualities...ect.

As for the duct man's lack of coal knowledge...getting air cfm output correct is irrelevant to the fuel choice.

newman116 · Post by **newman116** » Mon. Oct. 06, 2014 8:30 am

Basement is unfinished and non insulated however it does stay warm. Living space that is upstairs (first and second floor) is 3000 sq. Feet. The house is 15 years old. Well insulated. Thanks

McGiever · Post by **McGiever** » Mon. Oct. 06, 2014 9:34 am

You are heating 4200 sq. ft. total and the cold air return is off the uninsulated basement room floor.

Take some temp readings...floor air in temp...plenum air out temp...do the math...what do you get?
Don't just say it's warm down there...we need numbers.

newman116 · Post by **newman116** » Mon. Oct. 06, 2014 12:29 pm

Ok will get back to you. Thanks

Koker 160 Duct Work Help.

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