Mr. Herald Install UPDATE!!! Am I Forgetting Any Thing?

Long time no hear from, fellow NEPACrossRoadians. So tomorrow's the big install date. And here's what I have brought so far. I have the MANOMETER. I have the CO Detector. Stove pipe Heat Shield. Mantel Heat Shield and a Hearth Board. Even picked up two magnetic thermometers for the stove and pipe. All I need now is the heat shield for Mr. Herald. Which I have called a local sheet metal shop and he says he has made stove shields in the past. I just need to provide photos and measurements. Feeling good about all this. I'm still on the fence about a baro since I don't know enough about the draft. But I'm hoping that the Manometer will tell me if a Baro is even needed. Huh? But here are some concerns that are more important to me at this point. That mantle heat shield is way to big for the mantle. Not big in the terms of length. The mantle is actually 51in in length and the mantle heat shield is 47in. Not thinking that this would be a code issue as majority of the mantle wood be protected. The issue I'm seeing is that mantle heat shield is to wide to wide to fit perfectly flush with the mantle. You know, like under the mantle where it's supposed to be installed. Thinking that cutting it wouldn't be such a bad ideal, so that it fits flush with mantle. Right now it's too much heat shield.

Next is the placement of the Co detector. The directions says 15 feet from the stove would be best to prevent false alarms. What I'm wondering is should I put it on the second floor with the children. I plan to have multiple CO detectors. In fact, I have purchased a regular CO detector A circle one. As well as double sensor smoke detector The CO detector in the picture is a digital.http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004Y6V5CI/ref=o ... UTF8&psc=1 Where is best to place it.

Also, I was thinking about painting the stove heat shield white once I get it from the sheet metal shop. Isn't there a special paint that should be used for such applications.

Good to hear from you UDD, you're starting to sound like a seasoned veteran. I would bring the mantel shield to the metal shop that is making the stove shield and ask them to take a slice off the back (keeping the front edge factory finish), or putting a well measured bend in it. You could also return it and have the metal shop make a custom one for you...also ask them if they can paint your shield, powder coat would look nice with Mr. Herald!
About the CO detector's, I have one in my son's bedroom about 3 and a half feet off the floor and one about 15 ft from my stove plugged into an outlet 18" off the floor. If the kids nap in a certain room downstairs I would put one there as well as one in the stove room. Can't wait for the install pic"s.
Mike.

michaelanthony wrote:Good to hear from you UDD, Can't wait for the install pic"s.
Mike.

Me too Michealanthony.

Great Ideal to get a slither of the heat shield cut by the sheet metal guy. Wish I had thought of it However, the darn thing is so thin. I could do it myself if I had the right tool. Some type of metal cutting scissors. I can't think of the name of the tool. But thinking the sheet metal guy would be better simply because of the powder coating.

Is there a reason you put the CO detector in your kids room 3 1/2 feet from the ground. I can see this now being a new toy for my 5yr old. But if it's for a safety feature then, so be it.

What'll about the baro-damper. To need it, or not to need it.

Thanks

UDD,

Looking good!

You'll be sweating soon

Learn the stove this year and save your money.

Stoves of your type don't require it.

Keep us posted.

Cheers,
Scott

SWEET

I am going to help you with the barometric damper question.
You do not need it. In fact it may impede the performance of your stove. Base heaters send very cool exhaust up the chimney a Barometric Damper will serve to only cool things off too much. Sometimes to the point of killing the draft under many circumstances. A standard, old fashioned pipe damper is all you need.
There that makes that easier.

wsherrick wrote:I am going to help you with the barometric damper question.
You do not need it. In fact it may impede the performance of your stove. Base heaters send very cool exhaust up the chimney a Barometric Damper will serve to only cool things off too much. Sometimes to the point of killing the draft under many circumstances. A standard, old fashioned pipe damper is all you need.
There that makes that easier.

Even Sweeter. I can wait to go to sleep. Just to wake up. LOL (God Willing)

UncleDoDat wrote:..........Is there a reason you put the CO detector in your kids room 3 1/2 feet from the ground. I can see this now being a new toy for my 5yr old. But if it's for a safety feature then, so be it........

That is the middle of the wall and CO is slightly lighter but is easily moved by air currents...my 7 yr old helped with the location and promised never to mess with it---I check it every day the stove is lit

michaelanthony wrote:

UncleDoDat wrote:..........Is there a reason you put the CO detector in your kids room 3 1/2 feet from the ground. I can see this now being a new toy for my 5yr old. But if it's for a safety feature then, so be it........

That is the middle of the wall and CO is slightly lighter but is easily moved by air currents...my 7 yr old helped with the location and promised never to mess with it---I check it every day the stove is lit

Cool I figured it was something highly scientific.

What's going on here? It's Monday and we haven't heard about the installation yet. We want to see the stove all installed and hear that everything went well.

I wish that I could say that all has went well William, but the truth is the installation company (Wertz and Company Inc ) has stood me up on Friday. When I called them to see what was going on. The secretary said that her notes showed that I cancelled the installation. I was so perturbed. So we rescheduled for Monday. Monday has come and gone. Although the guy showed up. It was raining, so he choose not to get on the roof. Long story short my new install date is this coming Friday.

I know. I know. Good help is so hard to find. All is not lost though. I went to the sheet metal place today. Great guy working there. Took one look at my drawing and measurements and he knew just what was needed. He suggested a can of stove paint for color I'm going with a 18 gauge metal sheet which should be ready by the end of the week.

Hi, UncleDoDat. Any luck on Friday. Everything ok? Matt

ditto^^^,Mike.

DePippo79 wrote:Hi, UncleDoDat. Any luck on Friday. Everything ok? Matt

No luck at all. This has become some type of nightmare trying to get Mr. Herald installed. So the guy from Wertz didn't show on Friday, but the company emailed me a proposal which I immediately signed and emailed back, but I guessing since it was Friday is why I didn't hear back from them. So when Monday came I just knew I'd hear from them first thing Monday. I was a bit upset not hearing from them on Monday, so I started calling other places. With no avail. So I called Wertz Inc. back today and they assured me that they'd be out tomorrow. The cost is
Install wood burning stove without a liner installation
Total cost: $650.00
Install wood burning stove with a liner installation
Total cost: $1,650.00
Clean furnace flue
Total cost: $175.00

While I was calling around I spoke with and older gentlemen from Maryland that did not service my area. But we spoke for about 20-25 mins on the count of him asking a lot of questions like how old the house was? Did I have a chimney cap? ect. He told me to give him a call back if I couldn't find anyone. His thoughts were concerning a chimney liner. He says that without a chimney cap and the house being built in 1926 the elements have more than likely damaged the clay flue liner. He then goes on to say that if the elements have damaged the flue liner. The pieces that broke off may more than likely fell down to the flue opening. Which is probably what all the debris is behind the flue And probably the reason the flue opening mechanism has been block off by one of the previous owners. I really won't know until one of these guys gets on the roof. They should have a camera, but it's not like I would know what I'm looking at/for. One of my fears are that they are going to say I need the liner anyway just to make the big bucks. I would really hate to pay $1,650 to make this possible I mean don't these liners have to be changed every couple of years? I really just want this stove installed at this point. Please excuse my untimely post, butI have been so frustrated I just couldn't find a clear headed moment to post an update. Finding a reputable company has been like pulling teeth.

WOW ... that's some serious cash ...

If it were me, I'd skip the liner. Reason being, no matter what they tell you, the most you'll get out of a SS liner burning coal is about 5 years if your lucky. Conversely, masonry lasts forever.

I've been burning for 9 years in a unlined and crumbling chimney that has 2 jogs in different directions, have only cleaned it once in that time, and I haven't had a single issue with it .... aside from the external part of it crumbling and falling down. Another project I probably won't get to this season ... But I digress ....

Coal is pretty easy on masonry. You'll never have stack temps over 300°, unless you forget and leave the ash door wide open. And if you forget to clean it for, say .... 9 years or so ... ... it won't be the end of the world. If you do that with SS, there will be a pile of RUST blocking your chimney!