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michaelanthony
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Post by michaelanthony » Thu. Nov. 20, 2014 1:42 pm

How much coal does the stove hold? A damper would probably help you.


 
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ONEDOLLAR
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Post by ONEDOLLAR » Thu. Nov. 20, 2014 1:50 pm

George

Before you shake down try adding some coal first. Let the added coal catch fire, then shake down. This should help your stove recover its temp faster. And like others have mentioned a damper should help as well.

 
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Post by franco b » Thu. Nov. 20, 2014 1:53 pm

All I can suggest in addition to what michaelanthony has proposed is to load in several smaller batches. The recovery time should be a bit quicker.

 
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Post by Georgelap » Fri. Nov. 21, 2014 7:29 am

michaelanthony wrote:How much coal does the stove hold? A damper would probably help you.
The average of coal the stove can hold is about 10lb.
The manual says to fill the fire box about 2/3, but I fill it a little bit less

 
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Post by Georgelap » Fri. Nov. 21, 2014 7:39 am

Today I filled my stove in two batches. Before the second load I had a really good fire.
I set the knob one rev. out and left the house. The stove temp. was 300F.
When I returned, two hours later, the thermometer was at 200F... :?: :?:
I am really confused! :?

 
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Post by michaelanthony » Fri. Nov. 21, 2014 8:21 am

Are you able to clean out all the ash by shaking and poking under the grates or through the front door? I would think you get a lot of ash running a small stove over 400 degrees.
Mike.

 
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Post by Georgelap » Fri. Nov. 21, 2014 8:32 am

I can completely clean the ashes with the shake handle. The European anthracite does not make any clinkers or "hard ash".


 
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Post by Georgelap » Tue. Nov. 25, 2014 10:17 am

The main problem with the stoves without a bimetallic damper is that after the ignition of the coal gases the chimney temperature rises dramatically, and also the draft. The result is a fire which could not be controlled from the knob which is located under the fire bed
(higher pipe temp. ---> higher draft ---> higher flow)
The only way to cool down the pipe is a barometric damper, and in Greece you cant find one (only via ebay), so, I realized that I have to make myself one.

Here is my first attempt to make one:
(please forgive me for my poor English) :)

Image

Image

Image

Image

Ι will upload more when it is completely adjusted :)

The cost of these materials was only 6 euro.

 
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Post by franco b » Tue. Nov. 25, 2014 10:40 am

Nice work. Be sure to let those pivots roll on flat surface and not try to make them rotate within something. The solder should be safe up to about 600F which with air being drawn there should stay cool enough. If the copper pivots groove in time it will add friction.

 
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Post by michaelanthony » Tue. Nov. 25, 2014 12:57 pm

Nice work George. Do you have any Greek coins with the hole in the center? If it's not a crime you could use them for the pivot point for the copper wire :)

 
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Post by Georgelap » Tue. Nov. 25, 2014 1:09 pm

franco b wrote:Nice work. Be sure to let those pivots roll on flat surface and not try to make them rotate within something. The solder should be safe up to about 600F which with air being drawn there should stay cool enough. If the copper pivots groove in time it will add friction.
Thanks for the note francob. :)
I realized it then I did the first assemblage. :P
Well, here is the last form:

Image

Tomorrow I will replace the copper pivot with a stainless one!

 
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Post by franco b » Tue. Nov. 25, 2014 1:16 pm

I like it. You need to secure the pivots from moving outward too far but keep them rolling on a flat surface for least friction. Why not keep the copper?

 
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Post by Georgelap » Tue. Nov. 25, 2014 1:17 pm

michaelanthony wrote:Nice work George. Do you have any Greek coins with the hole in the center? If it's not a crime you could use them for the pivot point for the copper wire :)
Thanks michael!
I have some but I think it is not necessary to destroy them for a baro dumper :P :P
The friction point is very loose so I believe the steel pipe will not damage the copper pivot but for safer construction (as mechanical engineer) I will replace it with a stainless one.

 
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Post by Georgelap » Tue. Nov. 25, 2014 1:27 pm

franco b wrote:I like it. You need to secure the pivots from moving outward too far but keep them rolling on a flat surface for least friction. Why not keep the copper?
The cooper-zink welding will melt in case of an overfire (if the damper block). It is safer to be replaced with a harder metallic material!

 
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Post by michaelanthony » Tue. Nov. 25, 2014 2:32 pm

Georgelap wrote:
michaelanthony wrote:Nice work George. Do you have any Greek coins with the hole in the center? If it's not a crime you could use them for the pivot point for the copper wire :)
Thanks michael!
I have some but I think it is not necessary to destroy them for a baro dumper :P :P
The friction point is very loose so I believe the steel pipe will not damage the copper pivot but for safer construction (as mechanical engineer) I will replace it with a stainless one.
I know you have some XXX olive oil for that. :)


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