Stove Size Questions

PAwhiteboy · Post by **PAwhiteboy** » Fri. Oct. 17, 2014 9:05 am

Hello,
I am done with my double barrel wood stove and going coal for my garage. It's 980 square feet with 10 foot ceilings (insulated) and concrete floors. My stove will be towards the back of the garage where the woodstove is now. That area stays comfortable. My issue is towards the front of the garage where the two 8' x 9' garage doors are. It's cold there and I'm going to run duct work to each side there.

Here is what I'm looking at:

-new Keystoker 90 econo w/ free ton of coal $2,100
-new Koker Lite (molested from factory) 160,000 BTU 1500 cfm blower w/ free ton of coal $2,700

-used Leisure line ak-110 $2,700

I went and looked at the keystoker 90 econo and was pretty set on that, then started thinking.
1. If I go with a larger stove would that save me costs on coal?
2. A larger stove would work less therefore longer life?
3. Would the 90 eco 500cfm blower be enough for two ducts that are 50' with two 90 bends
4. Would the larger stove be too much where it would only idle and not let the blower turn on to heat the cold part (front) of garage?

I just want to buy the right one the first time. Hate spending money twice! Any help is appreciated!
thank you
-Matt

freetown fred · Post by **freetown fred** » Fri. Oct. 17, 2014 9:17 am

Welcome to the FORUM PWB. Two things, finish fillin out your profile so people get an idea who ya are & where you're from--I promise, nobodies gonna steal ya

Secondly, is this garage your daily work area, something you need to keep heated 24/7?. A used hand fired that will give you anywhere from a 12 hr to 36 hr burn can be found anywhere from $500.00 to infinity???????????? Some pix of the area would help if you want some educated replies. Again, welcome my friend:)

McGiever · Post by **McGiever** » Fri. Oct. 17, 2014 9:26 am

Free ton of coal is like ~$200.-240.
So Fred's $500. stove above plus the coal costs you $700.-740.

So the question for you is...Want to save $2000.00?

Post by **franco b** » Fri. Oct. 17, 2014 9:42 am

How well or badly the wood stove worked, and how much wood it burned should give you a pretty good idea of what is needed.

I would lean toward the larger unit. Rated output should be cut in half as a more realistic and practical figure.

Those doors could also be changed to insulated tighter fitting ones.

If you will have cars or anything with flammables in the garage, then you also need a separate room for the furnace with fresh air inlet or piped in combustion air for the furnace without the separate room.

PAwhiteboy · Post by **PAwhiteboy** » Fri. Oct. 17, 2014 9:49 am

yes the garage is a daily work area. Average 12 hour days. I really need a car lift but 10' ceilings are a bit on the short side for that so I work on the floor, on a piece of carpet and can see my breath when the garage is about 75. I know heated floors is the only 100% fix but was hoping if I kept it around 55-60 overnight that would at least help some.

PAwhiteboy · Post by **PAwhiteboy** » Fri. Oct. 17, 2014 9:56 am

bagged coal picked up here is $275
who doesn't want to save that kind of chrome! I just want something that i'll be happy with and works well is all

McGiever · Post by **McGiever** » Fri. Oct. 17, 2014 10:00 am

Now I must eat my words on saving $2000.00

No fuel combustion/storage in garage.

As stated, you need separate furnace/boiler room/space.

A boiler w/ modines should be given strong considerations for your application.

Post by **franco b** » Fri. Oct. 17, 2014 10:10 am

If you do a lot of oil changes, then a waste oil heater could also be considered.

Keeping heat in overnight will help a lot. Starting cold in the morning probably takes most of the day to get up to heat. Cold floors and cold tools take time to warm up.

Work for fair prices. Bargain prices will put too much pressure on you to cheat or take shortcuts. A decent wage allows you to be honest and get the tools and working conditions you need.

freetown fred · Post by **freetown fred** » Fri. Oct. 17, 2014 12:14 pm

For example---a used HITZER 50-93 would do exactly what your looking for with 24 hr burns of a daily useage of approx. 25 to 40 lbs on nut/stove mix--you need to talk to SMITTY about that lift need LOL. For the price of a good used hand fired, you'd have a good chunk of change towards the purchase of one of them thar set-ups:) Any safety issues with the hand fired unit can be addressed & are no where as iffy as that double barrel wood burnin unit ya been using.

windyhill4.2 · Post by **windyhill4.2** » Fri. Oct. 17, 2014 1:08 pm

Are the walls of that pole building insulated or just 1 layer of tin between cold and warm ?? Install the Leisure Line Furnace on a 24" high pedestal,that will meet the insurance requirements ,(fire must be above 18" from the floor). Run duct work to each side near the doors,bring the duct outlet to the floor... Blow the hot air right out at floor level,keep the shop the same temp 24/7. My shop is an uninsulated block building,i used to turn the heat back every night,turn it up in the morning & have a cold feeling shop till close to noon. Since we started leaving the tstat set we have a comfortable feel all the time.

McGiever · Post by **McGiever** » Fri. Oct. 17, 2014 1:48 pm

freetown fred wrote:For example---a used HITZER 50-93 would do exactly what your looking for with 24 hr burns of a daily useage of approx. 25 to 40 lbs on nut/stove mix--you need to talk to SMITTY about that lift need LOL. For the price of a good used hand fired, you'd have a good chunk of change towards the purchase of one of them thar set-ups:) Any safety issues with the hand fired unit can be addressed & are no where as iffy as that double barrel wood burnin unit ya been using.

That barrel was probably putting out over 100,00 btu/hr.

The coal unit needs to do at least what the barrel stove did.

Long hours means little if the fire/heat isn't enough output for the space.

This might hold over 100 lbs. of cheaper Bit or the $$$ Anth.
Check it out!
**Broken Link(S) Removed**

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PAwhiteboy · Post by **PAwhiteboy** » Fri. Oct. 17, 2014 2:41 pm

I don't do enough oil changes to make that feasible and a hand fired I'm not really into.

There is insulation on the walls and that is exactly what I am going to do with the duct work. Over to the corners by the garage doors, down to the floor and then out across the floor.

windyhill4.2 · Post by **windyhill4.2** » Fri. Oct. 17, 2014 3:01 pm

The beast way to have it decently comfortable at floor level is to set the tstat & leave it there 24/7,we have a big enough heat exchanger to get to temp.& then cycle on the tsat but the comfort level was not there till we left the tstat alone. We used to set it to about 58* over night but leaving it at 70* all the time keeps the concrete floor,block walls & all the metal tools ,etc . up to temp & feels so much better. The ultimate shop floor would have heat in the floor but when it is already built & the $$$$ to change ...go to next best. &

davidmcbeth3 · Post by **davidmcbeth3** » Fri. Oct. 17, 2014 3:21 pm

Really, I don't think you will meet your objective just by switching out heating devices .. that area next to the overhead doors and near it will be cold until you insulate the garage and have some type of air handling.

You have a 100,000 BTU device now...that's enormous for the small area you are heating. I would think that 80% of your heat is just being wasted.
I have a 90,000 BTU stove and if run open full out in the same area but insulated it would be a blast furnace temp. lol.

I don't think that your current insulation is adequate.

windyhill4.2 · Post by **windyhill4.2** » Fri. Oct. 17, 2014 3:56 pm

If you are running that barrel stove like I think you are,cold at nite,fired hot in the day time,you will never have that whole area comfortable. Get the used LL furnace,do the duct work as you planned, if area still need to be insulated you can still do that too. The continuous heat output of the coal furnace will do the job fine,just leave the tstat alone.

Stove Size Questions

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