Gasket Leak

Gasket Leak

PostBy: rberq On: Wed Feb 13, 2008 5:34 pm

Right about where the latch is on my loading door (harman mk I) I can see a red glow for the space of an inch or two, where the gasket doesn't contact the stove body. I put a straight-edge on the door, the stove body, and the gasket, and I can see that there's no warping, it's the gasket itself that is a little thinner at that one spot. It's not enough to bother with now -- I've had the stove going non-stop since early November and I'll be darned if I will shut it down while I can still walk and carry coal.

But -- come Spring -- how do I get the old gasket off? Just scrape it with a stiff putty knife? Is there some kind of solvent to dissolve the gasket cement and clean the surface before I install new gasket? Or is there some way to plump up the existing gasket in that spot, so I don't have to change it at all?
rberq
 
Hand Fed Coal Stove: DS Machine 1300
Coal Size/Type: Nut -- Kimmel/Blaschak/Reading
Other Heating: Oil hot water radiators, propane

Re: Gasket Leak

PostBy: coal berner On: Wed Feb 13, 2008 5:58 pm

Find the end of the gasket and pull it off then use the knife and scrape off what is left clean the the area put new
cement & gasket on shut the door wait for 45- 60 min make a small fire and cure the cement your dunn You should replace all gaskets every year or two You can do it with the stove going now if you want to open the load door all the way leave it cool down then Put new gasket on It will be easy to get the old stuff off when it is warm you will have to keep the ash door open when doing this to keep the fire going it can be dunn I have dunn it in the past Or you could Try cement in the low area on the door now and see if it seals up the gap or if you have a old piece of gasket cut it to fit the area and cement it over the one that is on there now Good luck :)
coal berner
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: 1986 Electric Furnace Man 520 DF
Stove/Furnace Make: Electric Furnace Man
Stove/Furnace Model: DF520

Re: Gasket Leak

PostBy: Cyber36 On: Thu Feb 14, 2008 1:41 pm

Even the rope style gaskets in the groove should be replaced annually?? I haven't noticed any leaking issues yet......
Cyber36
 
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Marathon/Logwood

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Re: Gasket Leak

PostBy: coal berner On: Thu Feb 14, 2008 6:31 pm

Cyber36 wrote:Even the rope style gaskets in the groove should be replaced annually?? I haven't noticed any leaking issues yet......
That is the type used on this stove's rope any door that as a channel in it will be rope doors that dont have channels in them will be flat gaskets or windows & hoppers
coal berner
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: 1986 Electric Furnace Man 520 DF
Stove/Furnace Make: Electric Furnace Man
Stove/Furnace Model: DF520

Re: Gasket Leak

PostBy: coaledsweat On: Thu Feb 14, 2008 8:18 pm

Cyber36 wrote:Even the rope style gaskets in the groove should be replaced annually?? I haven't noticed any leaking issues yet......


Mine are 14 years old on the load and ash doors. Inspect regularly, change when needed.
coaledsweat
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260M
Coal Size/Type: Pea

Re: Gasket Leak

PostBy: Wood'nCoal On: Thu Feb 14, 2008 8:24 pm

rberq wrote:Right about where the latch is on my loading door (harman mk I) I can see a red glow for the space of an inch or two, where the gasket doesn't contact the stove body. I put a straight-edge on the door, the stove body, and the gasket, and I can see that there's no warping, it's the gasket itself that is a little thinner at that one spot. It's not enough to bother with now -- I've had the stove going non-stop since early November and I'll be darned if I will shut it down while I can still walk and carry coal.

But -- come Spring -- how do I get the old gasket off? Just scrape it with a stiff putty knife? Is there some kind of solvent to dissolve the gasket cement and clean the surface before I install new gasket? Or is there some way to plump up the existing gasket in that spot, so I don't have to change it at all?


Same issue with mine, last year when it was new. The only way to adjust the tightness of the latch assembly is to bent the striker on the stove a little (vise-grips).
Wood'nCoal
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: 1959 EFM 350
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Harman Magnafire Mark I
Coal Size/Type: Rice and Chestnut
Other Heating: Fisher Fireplace Insert

Re: Gasket Leak

PostBy: rberq On: Thu Feb 14, 2008 10:41 pm

Yes, eventually I may have to adjust the striker a little, too. While the one spot I described is the only visible gap, the latch requires no pressure at all to engage it, it just slips into place perfectly. Thanks for the tip.
rberq
 
Hand Fed Coal Stove: DS Machine 1300
Coal Size/Type: Nut -- Kimmel/Blaschak/Reading
Other Heating: Oil hot water radiators, propane

Re: Gasket Leak

PostBy: Devil505 On: Fri Feb 15, 2008 9:13 am

coaledsweat wrote:
Cyber36 wrote:Even the rope style gaskets in the groove should be replaced annually?? I haven't noticed any leaking issues yet......


Mine are 14 years old on the load and ash doors. Inspect regularly, change when needed.


This is my 3rd season with a Harman TLC-2000 & the gaskets are fine.
Devil505
 
Stove/Furnace Make: Harman
Stove/Furnace Model: TLC-2000

Re: Gasket Leak

PostBy: Cyber36 On: Fri Feb 15, 2008 9:52 am

Mine are 18 yrs. old, & that's why I was asking...........
Cyber36
 
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Marathon/Logwood

Re: Gasket Leak

PostBy: LsFarm On: Fri Feb 15, 2008 10:49 am

You can take a candle, or a cigarette, and go around the perimeter of the door, watching the smoke or the candle flame.. If there is a gap or leak in the gasket, the flame or smoke will be pulled through the gap by the draft...

Greg L

.
LsFarm
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Self-built 'Big Bertha' SS Boiler
Baseburners & Antiques: Keystone 11, Art Garland

Re: Gasket Leak

PostBy: JLF53 On: Sat Dec 27, 2008 10:50 pm

rberq wrote:Right about where the latch is on my loading door (harman mk I) I can see a red glow for the space of an inch or two, where the gasket doesn't contact the stove body. I put a straight-edge on the door, the stove body, and the gasket, and I can see that there's no warping, it's the gasket itself that is a little thinner at that one spot. It's not enough to bother with now -- I've had the stove going non-stop since early November and I'll be darned if I will shut it down while I can still walk and carry coal.

But -- come Spring -- how do I get the old gasket off? Just scrape it with a stiff putty knife? Is there some kind of solvent to dissolve the gasket cement and clean the surface before I install new gasket? Or is there some way to plump up the existing gasket in that spot, so I don't have to change it at all?


I had the same issue but for 8 inches. I called my Harman dealer. He came and adjusted the handle and now I cannot see into the stove by the door latch. I have had a lot of problems keeping the door latch (handle) on the load door adjusted properly. I am getting ready to request a new handle since I have only been using the stove for 4 weeks and the problem has existed for the entire time.
JLF53
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: Leisure Line
Stove/Furnace Make: Leisure Line
Stove/Furnace Model: Pocono

Re: Gasket Leak

PostBy: Freddy On: Sun Dec 28, 2008 5:20 am

"plumping" as temporary fix... I've not tried this, but maybe should work. Cool the stove, Goop some high temp silicone on the low spot. Tape saran wrap on the other surface. Shut door, wait. Open door, remove saran wrap.
Freddy
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 130 (pea)
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Reading piece o' junk in the barn (rice)
Coal Size/Type: Pea size, Superior, deep mined

Re: Gasket Leak

PostBy: rberq On: Sun Dec 28, 2008 4:43 pm

I replaced the gasket this weekend, because the old gasket was pulling away from the door. Now there is a slight gap at another spot, I think because I allowed a little twist in the rope gasket rather than keeping the "grain" perfectly straight. However, the gap seems to have mostly disappeared over a couple of days as the higher spots got compressed more.

I considered using high-temp silicone to fill the low spot, but the only kind I could find locally was good to about 480 or 500 degrees, and I know the stove body gets considerably hotter than that. But I like the saran wrap idea -- I'll have to remember that for the future. Maybe waxed paper also?

P.S. The guy in the stove shop told me to heat the Rutland gasket cement to 90 or 100 degrees before trying to use it. I can see why: it is REALLY hard to squeeze it out of the tube otherwise.
rberq
 
Hand Fed Coal Stove: DS Machine 1300
Coal Size/Type: Nut -- Kimmel/Blaschak/Reading
Other Heating: Oil hot water radiators, propane

Re: Gasket Leak

PostBy: CapeCoaler On: Sun Dec 28, 2008 4:59 pm

There is a gasket 'glue' out now high temp and no mess.
CapeCoaler
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: want AA130
Hand Fed Coal Stove: DS Machine BS#4, Harman MKII, Hitzer 503,...
Coal Size/Type: Pea/Nut/Stove

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