Geneva Oak Andes Stove

 
franco b
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Post by franco b » Wed. Oct. 22, 2014 4:37 pm

I think the Oakvale Andes comes close to what William wanted. A base heater similar to the Glenwood 6 except with a cast iron barrel.

Nice catalog, thank you.


 
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Photog200
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Post by Photog200 » Wed. Oct. 22, 2014 4:47 pm

franco b wrote:I think the Oakvale Andes comes close to what William wanted. A base heater similar to the Glenwood 6 except with a cast iron barrel.

Nice catalog, thank you.
This catalog does refer to the Round Oakvale Andes in the back where they say which stoves they work on. I think it was a much earlier stove than this 1904 catalog

 
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nortcan
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Post by nortcan » Wed. Oct. 22, 2014 5:50 pm

Thank you very much Randy. Very complete and nice catalog, so many models and options...

 
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Photog200
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Post by Photog200 » Thu. Oct. 23, 2014 11:50 am

Well, I have to eat a little crow here. I was just cleaning out the stove and wire brushing the grates and I noticed that two of the grates are a little warped. They will not turn a complete 360°. When I was originally checking the grates, I checked the ones closest to me and they turned 360° and I just turned the other ones a little...did not try to go full circle with them. Thankfully, they are the two that are geared together so I should be able to send the other two out to Tomahawk foundry for copies. I should have some copies made anyway. These grates would work just fine the way they are but I want to get the stove in perfect working condition.

This morning I did some polishing of the nickel and some stove polish on the loading doors. It is cleaning up nicely. Not sure I want to sell this stove...it is really made VERY well. Who says you can have too many stoves? :shock:

Randy

 
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Sunny Boy
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Post by Sunny Boy » Thu. Oct. 23, 2014 12:08 pm

Had new grate bars made for the range this summer. Luckily the longer bar with the shaker handle stub was the good one. Used it as pattern to make three. Two for the stove and one as a spare, . . keeping the pattern bar for future recasts. Then I just sawed off the shaker stub to make the shorter bar too. Tomahawk did a really nice job.

The bars are 21 and 19 inches long and located by their front ends. Using Bondo, I had to add thickness to the rear most tooth and the round axle stub to make it longer by about 3/16 inch longer. That was so that coal wouldn't fall through a wider gap at the rear from the 1/8 inch shrinkage per foot of length.

Then, I painted several coats of thick primer all over the bar to help "fatten" them to compensate for shrinkage there too.

Tough to tell in just pix. If the bars are fairly long, you may want to check to see how much the gap between the last tooth and the firepot will increase. Or if it's just easier to reduce the last tooth to liner gap by making the liner a bit thicker ?

Paul

 
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Photog200
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Post by Photog200 » Thu. Oct. 23, 2014 12:15 pm

Sunny Boy wrote:Had new grate bars made for the range this summer. Luckily the longer bar with the shaker handle stub was the good one. Used it as pattern to make three. Two for the stove and one as a spare, . . keeping the pattern bar for future recasts. Then I just sawed off the shaker stub to make the shorter bar too. Tomahawk did a really nice job.

The bars are 21 and 19 inches long and located by their front ends. Using Bondo, I had to add thickness to the rear most tooth and the round axle stub to make it longer by about 3/16 inch longer. That was so that coal wouldn't fall through a wider gap at the rear from the 1/8 inch shrinkage per foot of length.

Then, I painted several coats of thick primer all over the bar to help "fatten" them to compensate for shrinkage there too.

Tough to tell in just pix. If the bars are fairly long, you may want to check to see how much the gap between the last tooth and the firepot will increase. Or if it's just easier to reduce the last tooth to liner gap by making the liner a bit thicker ?

Paul
Thanks Paul, I understand what you are saying about the shrinkage. I would also be concerned about sealing the hole where the end sticks through the stove for the crank. That has to be pretty tight clearance so air can't get in.

How is that Glenwood #6 install coming along?

Randy

 
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Sunny Boy
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Post by Sunny Boy » Thu. Oct. 23, 2014 12:24 pm

Photog200 wrote:
Sunny Boy wrote:Had new grate bars made for the range this summer. Luckily the longer bar with the shaker handle stub was the good one. Used it as pattern to make three. Two for the stove and one as a spare, . . keeping the pattern bar for future recasts. Then I just sawed off the shaker stub to make the shorter bar too. Tomahawk did a really nice job.

The bars are 21 and 19 inches long and located by their front ends. Using Bondo, I had to add thickness to the rear most tooth and the round axle stub to make it longer by about 3/16 inch longer. That was so that coal wouldn't fall through a wider gap at the rear from the 1/8 inch shrinkage per foot of length.

Then, I painted several coats of thick primer all over the bar to help "fatten" them to compensate for shrinkage there too.

Tough to tell in just pix. If the bars are fairly long, you may want to check to see how much the gap between the last tooth and the firepot will increase. Or if it's just easier to reduce the last tooth to liner gap by making the liner a bit thicker ?

Paul
Thanks Paul, I understand what you are saying about the shrinkage. I would also be concerned about sealing the hole where the end sticks through the stove for the crank. That has to be pretty tight clearance so air can't get in.

How is that Glenwood #6 install coming along?

Randy
If you do the percentage of how much that - what is it 3/4 inch rod (?) - will shrink in diameter, it's only about .080 inch loss in thickness.

A couple of coats of thick, brush-on primer should deal with it.

My range has the same type 3/4 inch grate stub sticking through the front wall under the firebox and a small, narrow end to the firebox. That slight gap around the grate bar stub doesn't make as much difference in how that end of the firebox burns as you might think.

Paul


 
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Photog200
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Post by Photog200 » Thu. Oct. 23, 2014 12:48 pm

Paul, I was more thinking about shrinkage in length because there is a shoulder just inside the stove that helps to cover the hole. If there is a lot of play in it, there might be more leakage.

Randy

 
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Post by Sunny Boy » Thu. Oct. 23, 2014 2:44 pm

Photog200 wrote:Paul, I was more thinking about shrinkage in length because there is a shoulder just inside the stove that helps to cover the hole. If there is a lot of play in it, there might be more leakage.

Randy
Since the shrinkage is proportional, you can measure from where ever the bars have locating shoulders to that flange and add thickness to the face of the flange to equal the shrinkage for that distance. If you add a bit too much, you can always grind, and/or file, the face of the recast bar flange to fit.

The Glenwood #6 is slowly getting ready to go back together.

I've got the fire brick master patterns made. Just have to make the mold support boxes for them, then pour the rubber molds into the boxes. Then I can start casting new bricks.

Debating about using hearth board, or a large piece of one inch thick slate I have that was part of the old coal furnace's dirt floor cold air return chase. Kinda like the idea of reusing the slate because of it's coal connected history, but don't like the idea of tripping over something that thick.

Paul

 
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Post by Photog200 » Thu. Oct. 23, 2014 3:04 pm

Sunny Boy wrote:
Photog200 wrote:Paul, I was more thinking about shrinkage in length because there is a shoulder just inside the stove that helps to cover the hole. If there is a lot of play in it, there might be more leakage.

Randy
Since the shrinkage is proportional, you can measure from where ever the bars have locating shoulders to that flange and add thickness to the face of the flange to equal the shrinkage for that distance. If you add a bit too much, you can always grind, and/or file, the face of the recast bar flange to fit.

The Glenwood #6 is slowly getting ready to go back together.

I've got the fire brick master patterns made. Just have to make the mold support boxes for them, then pour the rubber molds into the boxes. Then I can start casting new bricks.

Debating about using hearth board, or a large piece of one inch thick slate I have that was part of the old coal furnace's dirt floor cold air return chase. Kinda like the idea of reusing the slate because of it's coal connected history, but don't like the idea of tripping over something that thick.

Paul
I didn't know you had to take the #6 apart, I did know you were trying to make molds for the bricks. I think you would be happier with the slate...you will only trip over it once. :shock:

Been a busy day here, been canning and working on the new stove. Got 7 quarts of potatoes canned. (Yes, using coal in the cook stove for canning) Cleaning the inside of the stove so I can seal the seams. The upper seam is going to be the hard one as it still has some of the cement in it. Will have to dig all of that out first.

If I decide to keep this stove, I will probably just use it the way it is and not worry about the grates. They are not that badly warped, but if I decide to sell it, I will want it to be done right. I would be able to get more money for it if it is fully functional. What I have in the back of my mind is when I put the addition on the back of the house and move the cook stove in there, I will want heat out in the garage. This stove would easily take care of that area. I kind of have an area set aside for my "man cave" and like to hang out there anyway. Keeps me away from TV and computer.

Randy

 
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Post by Sunny Boy » Thu. Oct. 23, 2014 3:34 pm

Took the #6 apart to move it here from Wilson's place. Decided that while it was still apart to switch to stove polish, so I've also been removing the paint and polishing as I go.

Trip over the slate just once ? You don't know how clumsy I am !!!! :D

Range to the kitchen and Andes out in the garage - I think that would be a very good swap. It'll give you plenty of heat in the garage, and take up less space. And since it's easier to clean out, it can help use up that wood better than the range.

FYI.
Not being able to rotate the grates in my range over the years, the warped grate warped even more and then started to get those heat swelling cracks and lose chucks of the grate teeth. The past couple of years it really started to go bad quickly. So, this summer I put the number #6 project on hold to get new grates made for the range while I still had one good bar to use as a pattern.

So, the question is, . . if you use it without replacing the grates, will the good grate bars still be good enough to use as patterns whenever you need to replace them ?

Paul

 
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Photog200
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Post by Photog200 » Thu. Oct. 23, 2014 4:55 pm

Sunny Boy wrote: Range to the kitchen and Andes out in the garage - I think that would be a very good swap. It'll give you plenty of heat in the garage, and take up less space. And since it's easier to clean out, it can help use up that wood better than the range.

FYI.
Not being able to rotate the grates in my range over the years, the warped grate warped even more and then started to get those heat swelling cracks and lose chucks of the grate teeth. The past couple of years it really started to go bad quickly. So, this summer I put the number #6 project on hold to get new grates made for the range while I still had one good bar to use as a pattern.

So, the question is, . . if you use it without replacing the grates, will the good grate bars still be good enough to use as patterns whenever you need to replace them ?

Paul
Well, I will need to get the addition put on and that will be at least a year away...maybe two years. (unless I take out a loan) I really don't have room in my kitchen for this cook stove so it will have to wait for the addition. I will have time to decide what to do about the grates. I will probably send them off and have three of each made. That way after replacing the two that are warped, I would still have another set.

 
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Post by Photog200 » Thu. Oct. 23, 2014 9:19 pm

I found another minor issue, the finial at the post that hooks into the stove has two cracks on either side of the post. Am I correct in assuming the best way to reinforce this area is to braise these cracks on the inside of the finial base? Attaching a photo of the cracks.

Randy

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Photog200
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Post by Photog200 » Fri. Oct. 24, 2014 4:03 pm

I was reading through some of the old catalogs for this stove and was surprised to see that it was designed to burn soft coal as well as hard coal and wood. I guess it makes sense, you have above and below grate air controls.

Randy

 
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Post by nortcan » Fri. Oct. 24, 2014 6:27 pm

Photog200 wrote:I found another minor issue, the finial at the post that hooks into the stove has two cracks on either side of the post. Am I correct in assuming the best way to reinforce this area is to braise these cracks on the inside of the finial base? Attaching a photo of the cracks.

Randy
I don't know about it down in the US but the guy here in Tethfordmines who made nickel jobs on my stoves can easily repair things like that crack before the plating. I think that these guys are used to fix some inpecfections on antique stove parts...before the final plating.
If you don't get the nickel done soon, maybe waiting till you decide to have the finition done, those small cracks will not make a big difference on the heating results. Braising/welding them may just make the cracks more apparent, well I think so :!:


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